Yeah, I think the wall thickness is just over 1/4". I used a couple of cutting wheels to cut it to the size I needed. Fortunately the piece left over from cutting the front piece worked perfectly for the rear part.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Yeah, I think the wall thickness is just over 1/4". I used a couple of cutting wheels to cut it to the size I needed. Fortunately the piece left over from cutting the front piece worked perfectly for the rear part.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Ok, so finally here are some pics of what I've done with the clutch & brake pedal. I got 2 new pedals from Pete & Jakes. They already had attachment arms on them for the master cylinder & the clutch cable, however I had to reverse the pedals for my application because the attachment arm they had on the clutch pedal worked better for my master cylinder hookup. If that doesn't make any sense, just ask and I'll explain it more. I used the bracket I already had because it is set up for a power booster and the one in the P&J kit is not. In order to put the clutch pedal on the other side of the x-member, I had to use a spacer . I also heated & bent the pedals to follow the angle of the x-member. I think this will work ok. Feel free to let me know what you think....
Randy
Here are some pics of the pedals mounted on frame. I also fitted a removable plate to cover the hole in the floor in case I ever have to take them out again. I added a grease fitting to the pedals to slow the bushing wear.
There is also a pic of the modification to the lower x-member plate. The trans mount will slide into place then I have another 3/16 plate (not shown here) to bolt across the bottom in case the long slotted holes have removed some stiffness from the plate.
Hi Randy,
Lookin' real good. IMO, changing the pedals might just be an optional way that was built into the pedal arrangement based on what you had for a chassis/brake MC setup. If it works - it's fine.
You can't imagine how much I had to heat and bend my brake pedal to work with the 'A' chasis. It doesn't look anything like the piece supplied by TCI. I was only concerned with maintaining the same ratio, ~ 6:1. I imagine TCI makes a universal pedal that fit most of their chassis and in has to be "fitted"
We are having a warm spell here - but of course that doesn't mean that I can get to work on my car, though tomorrow it is scheduled (I only have to install my new 5th wheel hitch in my truck first). I spent today, ~55* cleaning out the old camper and getting it ready for pickup so the new (for us) can be delivered.
Hey Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
You may be right about the "option" though I haven't seen it out there to fit the original x-member. The main reason I started with new pedals is because I had already heated, hacked & welded the pedal that orignallly came with my bracket beyond the point of just getting a clutch pedal to match it! I learned on it so when I decided to add the clutch pedal, I thought it best to start with new pedals. There was a lot of heating & bending that went into making these pedals fit too!
I still have to figure out what I'm going to use for pedal pads. They'll have to be pretty small and I'll have to weld a mounting bracket onto the pedal arms for them.
Thanks for the input & encouragement. I always appreciate it!
Come on Spring! I want to see video of your car cruising down the street!!!
Later,
Randy
It looks real good there Randy, Nice Job!
I really like the idea of the bottom plate as a stiffener / mount. My habit is to always make it thicker... I know, it's a personal problem! :whacked:
Randy that is looking good . The mustang pads are 2 1/4 wide by 3 inches long or you could look into some import types they are small version also.
Thanks Bobby, I'll check those out.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Do you know what size bolts hold the trans mount to the transmission on the T5? My trans came without bolts and I'm not sure if they're metric or standard....
Ill check after I get home tomorrow and post it up . On the pads I would believe any small compact stick would work also .
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Hey Bobby, don't worry about the bolts. I contacted Rosehill Performance Parts in Texas and he's going to send me the bolts.
I'll check out the pedals on the compacts and see what I can find.
Thanks.
I finally uncovered the car last night to do some of the work that I've been promising myself that would happen one day when it got warm. Since today is warm day #3 in a row, figured it might be a good day to crank it up. Started after about 3 revolutions - or as soon as gas got to the carb. Then another bright idea - let's take it off of the jack stands. Of course being so low, I got the jack caught under the front splash shield (no damage, just too close). Then the next light came on - since my upholsterer is now stonewalling me (yesterday's revelation!!), figured that it had best go in the basement garage - and lo and behold, it actually moves under it's own power and for the first time - ever:D. Two problems - the fan wiring has a problem and a heater hose leaked a couple of quarts of water/antifreeze loose on the floor. Either - no big deal. It runs like a bear, and the Flowmasters are a "bit" loud and may have a drone that I wont tolerate for too long if that is true. Now - I have to clean up that stall so I can get my truck inside.
Well, ALL RIGHT! That's Cool! Shame about the leak, funny thing is that mine leaked a bit too, from the "gooseneck" a small green puddle on the water pump mount. Didja have a hard time keeping the wheels from spinning and the foot from pressing that small peddle to far? That's what happens to me every time I drive mine around.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I've got hushpower mufflers and inside seems to drone a bit but, it sounds nice outside. I'm hoping once I insulate the interior that drone will go away.
For the most part that was great news Dave. Let's hope the upholstery guy get on the stick and gets 'er done!
Mike - While sitting on a box, I did have to be careful - tho I did dig a couple of ruts in the yard when I put it back in drive to bring it into the basement garage:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
My upholstery guy is not on my best friends list right now. He does great work, that is when he gets around to it.
And yes, the water leak does seem to be coming from the "gooseneck". I'll fix that problem first then do my "punch list".....that is as soon as I finish my laundry room rebuild. This @#$% house doesn't have a wall that's square, plumb, level or straight which is trying my patience
Hey Dave,
It's great that it fired right up and you got a little taste of how it's gonna run. Is that the first time you've started it? I'm sure you'll get the bugs worked out of it soon.
Do you have the 50 series Flowmasters on it? They aren't supposed to be so loud are they?
Like Mike said, I hope your interior guy gets with it soon! Who is it? maybe we should bombard him with emails on your behalf! LOL! Just kidding, that would probably just piss him off and postpone you further.
Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Randy - that's the first start since December - I have probably and 1.5 plus hours on the engine so this leak is a bit of a surprise after sitting all winter. The fan - who knows - I probably have a wire on wrong
I do habe the 50 Series Flowmasters. I for sure can tell it has a nice cam, but the possible drone.....
My upholsterer - well I can do some needling too,
Okay. So I just got back from Miami at 1:30 this morning and am sippin' some coffee while reading this. Hotel lost it's internet the last couple days and I'm trying to catch up! Dave, I just knew you'd have to stuff your foot in it! :LOL::LOL: Now your killin' the grass!**)Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Did you use one of those Ford Motorsport chrome "goosenecks" also? The one with the o-ring? I did and am not happy about it!:mad:
I need to finish my spec list so we can start the addition to the house, I'm NOT swingin' a hammer this time. Gonna try and find a Gen'l. Contractor.
While it's not an 82' day like Miami. It's supposed to get to the high 40's so I'm going to go to the garage and see about "re-working" the front sheet metal. I bought 2 steel inner fenders from Spadaro and they arrived while I was gone. New parts always get me excited about working on the car and it'll be warm enough outside my heater should easily get the shop to 65 - 66.
Have a good day everyone!
Randy scoring some parts here . The cowls on the 37 are are bit weak and looking at patch panels costing at $400 I started asking about some being available . Well was contacted and a real clean set was acquired (thanks henryJ $65 ) . So just a few pics of getting ready for some sheet metal to fix this sweet car . Still more to get but I am getting moved buy your build .
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/43...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/44...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/44...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/18...500x500Q85.jpg
Looks like a nice score on the patch panels, Bobby!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Here's a link to detailed build on a 38 Ford coupe that has some good ideas, too. http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/onlinestart.htm
Didn't get to work on mine this weekend....I'm doing my taxes....argh!
Hopefully will post more progress soon....
Randy great link thanks .
I have wondered for a long time what this thread was all about, but didn't care much thinking it was just about Ford tech. My curiousity got the best of me today though as I wondered how long a discussion on fitting headers with GT40P heads could go :LOL:.
I am glad I checked this out...you're pedal adventure seems similar to mine. I got a pedal assembly from JPL (forget the brand now...it was about $530 a year or two ago :o). I have a hydraulic clutch though...I have over $100 in my hydraulic line because I needed a threaded fitting for the clutch master cylinder and a push style to connect to the slave :CRY:. Anyway...looks good! carry on :D
LOL! Yeah, it's definitely evolved way past headers & GT40P heads! It turned into more of a "build thread" along with a lot of friendly banter with a few guys scattered around the country. I've learned a lot from their input and hopefully others can get ideas from it too if they have the patience to wade through all the other stuff we talk about.Quote:
Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe
I was planning to do the hydraulic clutch on mine until I discovered that cable setup from Pete & Jakes. Given everything else that's going on under there, I just like the idea of having one less master cylinder to feed.
My project is coming along slowly....too many "life" distractions but I got the brake/clutch pedal pads fitted this weekend and finalized the clutch cable bracket on the frame. Will post some more pics soon.
Thanks for checking it out.
Glad to have you aboard - it really isn't a closed to the public thread!! Reading 499 individual posts over a couple of years (yours was #500 ) must have been a real adventure in patience. We've had lots of fun with this one and since it seems to flounder then spurt, we welcome your input (even without a Ford powered vehicle:CRY:) and suggestions. So with that said - have at it:):)
Randy did you locate some pedal pads from something yet . Any more progess also on the floor pedal assembly .
Hey Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Yes I did. Sorry I've been lax about posting. I've been sidetracked again. Anyway, here are a few pics of what I came up with. They are Lokar pads for a 57 Chevy. I cut a small 3/16 plate and welded to each pedal then drilled them to mount these pads. I haven't inserted the rubber treads in the pedals yet. Waiting until I bolt them on permanently for that. I think it's going to work well though.
I also built a bracket for the clutch cable.
I'm waiting for a cash infusion so I can move to the next phase. I wanna raise the body up to seal the new floors underneath, etc. While I have it up I wanna fab the exhaust system and install different springs on the rear. The ones I have sit too high. I acquired a nice set of lower springs from a SAC custom frame for cheap. They're designed to sit much lower than what I have. One step at a time....LOL1
What's happening with yours?
Randy, sounds like a common theme for a lot of us! Life gets in the way and we're waiting for some cash here also! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
You're pedals look great! Good Job!
Nice job! Looks great! Don Jr:)
Still in the parts searching but I like how the pedals came out . Sure may change my mind on the hangers since they look and work for a cable clutch . How was it routing the cable to the trans . Did you have to play with the tab to get the right throw on the throw out bearing . Did you use the stock length cable or order a special shorter one .
I picked up some things to swap to the 31 so I can keep the 9 Inch and T-5 for the 37 .
I scored a 88 Mustang GT AOD for free and tonight picked up a 66 Fairlane 8 Inch to swap in the 31 .
Few weeks back I purchased a C9 351 W but with newer heads just missed by hours scoring a set of GT40P heads for $200 off Craigslist . :( So the search is still on for better heads
You already seen the cowl patches I found they came out great after soaking in 3M metal conditioner .
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Yeah, I'm pretty glad I kept the pedals under the floor. I didn't want to hang a master cylinder on my new firewall. It wouldn't have worked anyway because there is no room since it's a big block firewall. I looked at putting it all under the dash but that was going to be pretty expensive and require re-thinking my guages, AC and other stuff. So, under the floor it is. The clutch cable is a short one from Pete & Jakes. A little pricey but it works well. A regular length cable can work too, I'm told. You just have to keep it away from the headers. As for getting the right throw on the pedal, I clamped the cable mounting bracket in place and tested it before finalizing it's location. After that is set, you still have quite a bit of adjustment on both ends of the cable to tweak it if necessary. You could probably adapt those '39 pedals that are already in your frame to fit a late model master cylinder if you want. You wouldn't have to use a power booster if you don't care about power brakes. Otherwise you could get a set up like the one from Pete and Jakes but you'll probably have to split to pedals to run on either side of the x-member like I did.
Nice score on the AOD & 8" for the 31. Check the salvage yards for GT40P heads. I got mine from a 2001 Explorer in a salvage yard for $200. They were in good shape and I probably could have used them as is but had them rebuilt with roller rockers. Everything else in the engine is new so I wasn't going to put used heads on it! LOL!
Check out this link for BulldogCountry1, a member here. He has a 37 tudor with a 351w/5sp Tremec. It's a pretty nice car. http://www.andyphardy.com/my37ford.htm
Looked at Pete and Jakes didn't see anywhere they listed a cable clutch pedal . But what you said about the one's I have maybe I can convert them myself and save some cash . I do want power brakes though . With this Chicago traffic you never know when a panic stop may happen . I have been studing you pics and I think I have the idea down but if not expect me asking alot of questions on what you did and how .
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
Ask away, my friend! I'll tell you what little I know....LOL! P&J doesn't list the shortened clutch cable on their site but they sell it to those who buy their clutch/brake pedal kit for use with a Ford engine & trans. They'll sell it separately. For those using GM engines they send a hydraulic unit. Anyway, he has these cables shortened for this application but it's like $125 if I remember correctly.
The power brakes are probably a good idea for both Chicago & LA...Yikes!
They list the one with power brakes or only standard . Is that why you used a different mount you had.
Pete & Jakes offer this unit http://www.peteandjakes.com/blog/index.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
I couldn't use it because they designed it for both pedals to be on the engine side of the x-member. With my big block firewall, I didn't have room for both pedals in that location. I needed the pedals to straddle the x-member. I could have modified the P&J unit but I already had a pedal/mc/booster setup for my automatic trans which already fit my situation so I decided to modify it to meet my needs. I bought their bare pedals and fit them to my bracket and bent them as needed. I think it would also be fairly easy to modify the Pete & Jake unit to mount the clutch pedal on the other side of the bracket so that it is on the outside of the x-member. The P&J unit doesn't have a mounting plate for a booster either. I think it could be fabbed on if there is floor clearance for it. If that doesn't make any sense, scroll thru the pics a couple of pages back and ask me what you don't understand.
If you don't end up cutting your firewall very much, you might not have as many issues as I did in making something work. I actually used the pics you posted of your chassis with the '39 pedals to help me figure this thing out. I knew there had to be a way to get the pedals to go on either side of the x-member.
I see what you saying . What power booster bracket did you use . I will keep the original x member in the car . Man I can't wait till this car gets on the stands . Getting everything set up and glad you have these pics . I may be able to make a plate just haven't had the floor time under it yet.
I started with a setup from ebay kinda like this one but from a different vendor http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1935-...Q5fAccessoriesQuote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
It included the booster & MC.
Here's a shot of another one without the booster & MC to give you a better idea how the bracket is made http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1935-...Q5fAccessories
I ended up buying 2 new pedals from P&J along with a new shaft which I had to cut to the length I wanted. There were some discrepancies with shaft sizes, pedal bushing size versus bracket size, etc which meant I had to spend a little extra at the machine shop getting everything to fit with the proper bushings etc. In the end I probably would have been money ahead to have bought P&J's whole kit and modified it to split the pedals. Live & learn.
I also had to mount the whole set up a little further back on the x-member to accomodate the pedal length and the setback from the big block firewall. You may not have that problem.
I can take better pictures of all that when I pull the engine back out again.
Randy pics then will be great . I can see this is the way I will go also since you have did such a fine tech article on this . I may be able to incorporate my pedals with a power assembly but either way I will mock off yours . My stock clutch cable I have has a 48" casing on it what is the length of the P&J you got . A design patent may be a thought from you here . People will be wanting these in the future all set up .
This will be a lot easier then making a firewall to mount hanging pedals and booster . Plus it will keep it more to a stock look , but way better clutch and braking performance .
Randy or anyone do you recognize these pedals . Sorry for bad pics was laying under car. Looks like they cut out a section of frame to get these in may not be original .
Randy these go thru the frame similar to what you did wonder if I could mod them to a power brake kit . Like all be cheaper then buying the pedal kit from P&J and then a power booster set to convert .
Hey Bobby,Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67
I'm not sure what they are but it seems like I remember when you posted pics of your frame several months ago that someone commented that the pedals looked like they were from a '39 Ford. Chassis Engineering makes an adapter for a power booster to fit the '39 pedals http://chassisengineeringinc.com/page61.html
As for the clutch pedal, you would need to flip that pivot arm around to the bottom to use a cable operated clutch because depressing the pedal would need to pull the cable instead of push it.
Sounds like this might work.....
Randy I may have mentioned it being a 39 frame since it has juice brakes but they may have been added also . Here is the above pic with no body . Yiou can click on it and use the zoom feature . Nope won't let you zoom from web shots this way .
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/43...500x500Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/17...500x500Q85.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkgeiger
Ahh This guy says it is a 40 with the way the clutch assembly goes .So that would still work for it .
Randy you have been super help in me getting ready .
Cool! I'm glad to help!Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang67