37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[bluestang67]

Randy yes I did but a bad misfortune for sure . Hope he gets back to work soon at where he was .

But I did pull the covers on the 37 and showed him what I need . So I am sure if I get going quick I can get him back out for help . His skill saves K's of money and helps you get ready for filler and at minimum depth . At most it will be a 1/16 maybe a 1/8 in the deeper spots .

Now if I could get a estimate from you on doing my pedals oh wow I will be moving quick on the 37 > . I like mechanics and hate filler even though I do it . What dimension did you make the lever for your cable . Also does it go to the floor or did you install a stop .

[randyr]

Now if I could get a estimate from you on doing my pedals oh wow I will be moving quick on the 37 > . I like mechanics and hate filler even though I do it . What dimension did you make the lever for your cable . Also does it go to the floor or did you install a stop .

LOL! You won't be moving very quick if you wait on me to do your pedals! Look at the rate I'm moving on my own! LOL!

What "lever" do you mean? Are you talking about the bracket where I attach the cable to the frame? Also, I didn't install a stop for the pedal, not yet anyway. I don't know that I'll need one. I will probably have a spring on the clutch arm coming out of the bell housing. It seems like that will cause the cable to push the clutch pedal back into position but I haven't fully tested it yet. In my first test fittings, the clutch seemed to engage & release pretty good without a spring.

I know what you mean about body filler but they're making some really good stuff these days that we should have to worry about it ever cracking or falling out if prepped properly. Hopefully, your friend can get back to work soon. In the meantime, it's cool that you can help each other out.

[bluestang67]

The lever on the pedal assembly where the cable attaches . The length would determine the amount of cable it pulls out . Is it 1 inch or 2 inch long is what I mean. Also have you measured the length it needs to fully disengage the clutch yet . This is where we would need at least 2 people I think to watch the movement and measure it . Guess what I am asking is kinda like the ratio of the brake pedal . You have some great tech going here . .

The old rod assembly's used to travel about 2 or 3 inches if I remember correctly has been along time since I seen one move . Maybe a service manual would have the info .

[randyr]

The lever on the pedal assembly where the cable attaches . The length would determine the amount of cable it pulls out . Is it 1 inch or 2 inch long is what I mean. Also have you measured the length it needs to fully disengage the clutch yet . This is where we would need at least 2 people I think to watch the movement and measure it . Guess what I am asking is kinda like the ratio of the brake pedal . You have some great tech going here . .

The old rod assembly's used to travel about 2 or 3 inches if I remember correctly has been along time since I seen one move . Maybe a service manual would have the info .

Ok, Bobby, I'll try to answer your question via pics and extraneous verbage...LOL! This may take two posts since we're limited to 5 pics per post.
First, the pedals I bought from Pete & Jakes already had the "levers" attached as seen in pic #1. The pedal on the left(brake) has a 3.5" small shaft welded to it to extend thru the x-member and attach to the master cylinder. The "lever" attached to it is 3/4" from the center of the small shaft to the center of the hole as seen in pic #2. (I wish I knew how to write on the pics but I don't...rats!)
The pedal on the right in pic#1 (clutch) has a simple "lever" on it that is 2" from the center of the shaft to center of the hole as seen in pic #3. So, both of these pedals have the same amount of leverage (2") even though the brake pedal has the additional smaller shaft that extends through the x-member. Does that make sense so far? Both pedals also have an 11" rise from the center of the pivot shaft to the top of the pedal. An 11" rise and a 2" lever makes 5.5 to 1 ratio, right?

To use my existing mounting bracket, I had to cut a slotted hole for the brake pedal lever shaft to go through, see pic #4. This was a trial & error process for me since I don't have any hi-tech equipment for such things. In pic #5 you can see how the parts are supposed to fit together on the 7/8" shaft. The shaft is 6 1/8" long with a 2" spacer (black). There is a set screw in the bracket to hold the shaft in place.

I thought since I already had the pedal/booster assembly for an automatic trans, I could save some money by modifying it to accomodate the clutch pedal too. In retrospect, it might have been easier to get the whole assembly from Pete & Jakes, then modify it so the clutch & brake pedals would straddle the x-member instead of their design which has both the clutch & brake pedal on the inside of the x-member. I had some issues because the shaft sizes on my unit weren't the same as theirs and a bunch of crap like that. Also to further confuse you, in the P&J design, these pedals were reversed. I'm using their clutch pedal from my brake pedal and vice verse for the other. If you look at the pic of their design in some previous post, it may make sense why I did that. If not, I'll explain further.

More in the next post....

[randyr]

Here's a couple of additional pics of the assemble put together outside the car, see pic #1 & 2

Now for the clutch cable I don't have very good pics of the bracket I made but I welded the mounting piece to a flat bar then bolted it inside the x-member in case I needed to take it out or move it as some point. I clamped it in place to test it before I drilled the holes, however you can see I ended up with an extra hole or two anyway....LOL! I bought the modified shorter cable from Pete & Jakes which is a little pricey compared to aftermarket ones for Mustangs but I thought the shorter one might be less hassle in the long run. I don't have a pic of it but it loops around to the clutch arm and seems to work effortlessly. There is a lot of adjustment on both ends of the cable so there is a little forgiveness if you don't get it exactly right the first time.
Pics #3 & 4 show this part. I promised you better pics of this bracket but I still have the engine in the car and can't get a good camera angle. I'll be pulling back out before long and can snap some pics then.

Hope this helps. Obviously, if you come up with a better way, let us all know! LOL!

[bluestang67]

Randy this is very descriptive and helps a lot No confusion yet Actually you presented it out great and I thank you . Don't think I could modify what you did but if a slight change will work for me you will know for sure .

Now lets hope we don't crash and loose what you have done . My printer is down and I cant save it as of now .

[IC2]

Randy this is very descriptive and helps a lot No confusion yet Actually you presented it out great and I thank you . Don't think I could modify what you did but if a slight change will work for me you will know for sure .

Now lets hope we don't crash and loose what you have done . My printer is down and I cant save it as of now .

Bobby - why not save in My Documents. When you tell the printer to do its' thing, it will USUALLY ask you if you want to save it instead. Or copy and paste to a Word or whatever document writer you have then save it to My Documents.

Randy - nice write up. Too bad mine's not a '35 - '40