37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[bluestang67]

Mike yep glad to hear that the ok is given to resume some fun things .

[Bob Parmenter]

Good on you Mike....

[Dave Severson]

Sounds great Mike, that healing up takes a bit more time then it used to, huh???

[34_40]

Some good ideas there Dave! And it looks good too!

[randyr]

That looks good, Dave!!! I wish I was working on stuff like that. Instead I have a nasty deck lid & tail pan to contend with! One thing leads to a thousand more! I do hope to drive it again sometime in this lifetime!

[IC2]

Thanks Mike and Randy.

And, Randy, that tail pan - that one I thing which I would bite the bullet and spring for the EMS. Save your pennies while working on the trunk lid and the multitude of other things that need to be done, then go back and 'do' the pan. Too much stretched metal that's been bent, gouged, ground and beaten on too often for my abilities - but heck, I could spend your money all day ( and think I already have in the past).

[randyr]

And, Randy, that tail pan - that one I thing which I would bite the bullet and spring for the EMS. Save your pennies while working on the trunk lid and the multitude of other things that need to be done, then go back and 'do' the pan. Too much stretched metal that's been bent, gouged, ground and beaten on too often for my abilities - but heck, I could spend your money all day ( and think I already have in the past).

Yes, Dave, you do have a knack for helping me spend my money!

I got a "best price" quote for the tail pan & tool compartment combo for $600 including shipping. That's a big chunk of change! I also emailed the guy building the 37 on this site Stellar Antique Auto Restorations 1937 Ford Restoration because he replaced the tail pan in that car. He said that they had to split & reweld the tail pan to make it fit because it was just a little too wide. Geez! For $600+ dollars you still gotta do a lot of fabricating!

Then I look at the metal work being done by Dave Seversen, 123Pugsy, that new guy MP&C, Charlie and a bunch of others who work miracles with sheetmetal, and think maybe I should try smoothing this one out before I plunk out $600 for a repop. Heck, maybe I could even cut this one out, rework it and weld it back in since it doesn't appear to be rusted. There is lead work on each side of the pan, which may be from the factory, I'm not sure.

Anyway, I'm getting my threads mixed up by talking about the tail pan stuff here instead of the other one but oh well. My threads tend to go all over the place anyway.

[bluestang67]

Hardly any panels go right in but with some cutting and finis you get them looking better then new . I would rather work a replacement then try and save a medium condition one .

I have 2 ahead of it but I might catch up wit you ,

[Don Shillady]

Front Signal.JPGTeacup-LED.JPGDon Shillady/RumpleStiltskin here. I know I don't belong on this thread but you guys have accepted my drivel before. We have had a mild winter here in central Virginia with only two small snow storms and so far I have avoided the bad cold I had this time last year. Amazingly yesterday and today I have seen some flowering trees! We had two warm days this week and I bought a precautionary fire extinguisher for my wood/frame garage and charged up my battery so I can start checking out my electrical system. The digital speedometer is not hooked up yet, the dimmer switch is not connected and the windshield wiper runs but will not shut off. With that list I am telling myself that at least I did not have a fire! Anyway I know my effort on the wiring is pathetic so far but I am reporting some good news here in that at least my turn signals work! In fact I am very pleased with the LED tailights and the front turn signals are actually brighter than shown in the picture because the camera flash negated some of the yellow light at the bottom of the three-in-one bulbs. The rear teacup-LED lights are really bright and I am happy about that small positive step. I am showing this very limited progress just to keep in touch with IC2/Dave. If the flowers keep popping up with an early Spring maybe I can sort out these circuits and get the engine running before Summer? OK so humor me while I try to psych myself into getting the wiring done this Spring.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/Teen Rodder

[34_40]

HI DON! It's good to see you posting again! Never drivel,and any forward progress is good progress! The lights do look good and I like the LED rear lights in mine also. A lot brighter than an 1157 lamp for certain. I'm sure IC2/Dave will be along to harrass you soon.

[IC2]

Don -consider yourself harassed. I think that you just saved us a search and rescue mission to VA

Besides that - congratulations on some progress.

[IC2]

Ok one last update on my wiring mod/battery disconnect. Since I plagiarized both Painless and Cole-Hersee, I'll give them some credit - well, a wee bit anyhow. This is the wiring diagram for what I did. It works, so I am happy. Had it been a bigger car with more room, I probably would have gotten fancier, but my intent was to create some more useable trunk space plus clean up some wire mess - and it for sure did that:

Disconnect wiring.JPG

[34_40]

Dave, what's connection 3 feeding? Switched?

[IC2]

Dave, what's connection 3 feeding? Switched?

The way these latching solenoids are set up for battery disconnect is that you use #3 to do a momentary ground to complete the circuit from #2. Terminals 2 and 3 are a direct and always on feed from the battery. What you are doing is just completing the circuit. The through feed is then closed. Hit the switch again, and it will open. This is NOT your everyday $10 buck Ford starter solenoid which is a momentary solenoid. I had a little problem getting my feeble mind around it so wired up a 'bread board' to satisfy my curiosity. That toggle - can be on either side - I just chose to wire that way ----- just because I did

Some reading for you - the final exam is at 0630 someday: Special Solenoid Applications | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse

[cffisher]

it goes to ground to work the solinoid