Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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thanks Steve, it's easy to see why you have a thriving business with the attention to detail you provide.

Jack.

One of the best parts of your build threads is showing everyone how to approach these fixes. Prior to reading your's a and a couple other build threads, I would of never know where to start or what to do. This will pay off in droves should I ever tackle a glass build, and with my own glass replacement parts on my truck. Thanks again for taking the time Steve for posting these steps. I know you do it for your customers as well, but we sure appreciate it.

Originally Posted by stovens

One of the best parts of your build threads is showing everyone how to approach these fixes. Prior to reading your's a and a couple other build threads, I would of never know where to start or what to do. This will pay off in droves should I ever tackle a glass build, and with my own glass replacement parts on my truck. Thanks again for taking the time Steve for posting these steps. I know you do it for your customers as well, but we sure appreciate it.

Not a problem Steve, i'm a hotrodder so more than happy to help others, makes for a better hobby all round I reckon.

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Steve I notice you use large diameter flat washers when bolting directly to glass. I am guessing this is to put the pressure over a larger area of the fiberglass to prevent cracking the glass? I have running boards for my pickup that are made from fiberglass and I have been wondering one how tight to bolt them on, and 2 if the use of a washer will be necessary on the top side of the running board where the carraige style bolts go through? These are thick glass boards made by Bebops Glassworks for my truck. Thanks. Steve.

Originally Posted by stovens

Stev I notice you use large diameter flat washers when bolting directly to glass. I am guessing this is to put the pressure over a larger area of the fiberglass to prevent cracking the glass? I have running boards for my pickup that are made from fiberglass and I have been wondering one how tight to bolt them on, and 2 if the use of a washer will be necessary on the top side of the running board where the carraige style bolts go through? These are thick glass boards made by Bebops Glassworks for my truck. Thanks. Steve.

Steve it's always wise to spread the load but the carriage bolts will be fine, I do them up pretty tight but always use a spring washer.

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Thanks Steve, good to know!

Steve, I really like your hood prop and fender mounts. Simple and effective. On these spring washers, do you mean a large flat diameter washer, or a washer with the capability to hold pressure but be flexible as well. Like a spring? I'm curious because I have some glass rear fenders to mount on my 40 Ford.

First job today was to make a holder for the hood stay, it was annoying me swinging everywhere, so a bit of aluminium was shaped up and bent and stuck in place with a few blobs of body filler, I will blend & fettle it when I next remove the hood.








While I was there I added a pin to guide the hood into the same place each time its shut.










While I was on the hood I decided to fit the hood scoop, It had a flat returned flange as per the original but the willys hood isnt plus I preferred the flange to return outwards so it was cut off and the hood taped up, then 2 layers of mat & resin was laid down and the scoop pressed into it, a bit of weight on top to stop it moving and then 2 further layers applied, once hard it was lifted off and trimmed.










Once trimmed the edges were ground down to the thickness of a steel panel and holes drilled for the rivet bolts i've used elsewhere to keep to the theme, these ones are polished but i think on this car I prefer the unpolished ones. I gave it a squirt of primer to see what it looked like in colour.
Not sure why the last pic is so crap.













My dashlights turned up so installed them and my push pull switches arrived so they went in too, I got an extra switch just for the knob which just happened to screw straight on to the headlight switch luckily enough, the knobs are growing on so might stay, save me a job making new ones.







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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Steve, I really like your hood prop and fender mounts. Simple and effective. On these spring washers, do you mean a large flat diameter washer, or a washer with the capability to hold pressure but be flexible as well. Like a spring? I'm curious because I have some glass rear fenders to mount on my 40 Ford.

I just use spring washers with a flat washer Ryan, like this

Looking very nice Steve.

Steve, nice work on the hood scoop. That looks great. Thanks for the washer pic. We call them lock washers up here.

Done very little this week, as its the annual swapmeet week its been real busy but I got this offered me the other day and it was really hard to say no

Its a 4/71 in nice condition, its pretty grubby but will media blast up nice, its a stock GMC but I can pin the rotors myself and do the required mods and new bearings & seals etc so no problems there, need to make a blower intake and rear cover and drive and buy a front cover, If anyone has a front cover let me know.
I intend to run old style twin V belts so need to buy some aluminium billets to make the pulleys, might have a look in the bin.







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Not a great deal of progress today as been loading up for the swapmeet tomorrow but I did get the mount made for the Tach, The pictures tell the story











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Had an excellent day at the swapmeet, also yesterday my pal Merv Barnett rang and said he had some spare blower parts (thanks Merv) met up with him today and picked up a Magnesium front cover, a rear cover assembly, old school style snout mounted idler arm & a snout cover and shaft, this will save me a lot of time, the snout might be a little short but its a great starting point, gonna get them media blasted tomorrow.













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Cleared my car out today and nearly forgot about this little gem I picked up yesterday, I like alternators but not on vintage engines so I picked this up off my friend Ian, (thanks Ian) Its an alternator in a Generator casing, So you get a good reliable output with old looks.

I looked through my scrap aluminium bin but nothing the right size for the double vee belt pulleys so popped into the metal stockists today and picked up some bar offcuts for beer money What you see here will become the 2 x 6" main pulleys, a 4" idler pulley and a 4" steel crank hub, Looks like I will be making a lot of swarf tonight !!!









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