I liked the flattened copper tubing/pipe tip, myself. Hadn't really considered taking a piece of soft copper tube and whanging it with a hammer on the anvil to make a backing plate....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
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I liked the flattened copper tubing/pipe tip, myself. Hadn't really considered taking a piece of soft copper tube and whanging it with a hammer on the anvil to make a backing plate....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
Here's the flattened copper pipe using a rare earth magnet for hands free/clamp free operation..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture837.jpg
Shown here as a backer for filling too wide of a gap..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture840.jpg
The problem we found was that the back side of the weld, which was against the copper, gets a bit of contamination/porosity.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture842.jpg
I've found that the copper buss bar (electrical) does not show this same issue. Not sure if the pipe has elements added to promote solder wetting, or what the issue is. But for the holes welded yesterday using the buss bar, the front and back looked the same. We have since stopped using the copper pipe. When we weld the holes in the passenger side wheel wells I'll have to get some comparison pictures. We also now have a section of the buss bar that's had offset bends added to the ends for attaching magnets where they will remain flush.
Nice tips and thanks for using them. I had the same issues with copper pipe. I then switched to a large brass punch because I happened to have some. But, it was really hard to hold them and weld if you were by your self. I really liked your modified pipe holder. That is a great idea.
Some years back, when I was running drain diggers, (track hoes to you Americans,) I'd lose a tooth off the bucket. The teeth were fixed to the stumps on the bucket with a locking pin. Sometimes it would be quite some time before I got around to replacing them, and the stump would get a bit worn, which meant I had to build it up with weld.
I had a brass (or copper, I can't remember which,) rod the exact same diameter as the hole for the locking pin which I would drive into the hole, weld around it, and knock it out again.
Instant perfectly sized hole for the pin, no drilling needed.
There are a couple different types of "pipe" / tubing in copper, the one most of us know is used for refrigeration, this is a different alloy than say regular water pipe. Just like brass fittings, there is a class known as red brass, again a different alloy which is used for higher pressure applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
Most of the copper tubing we see on the general market is either Type K or Type L, and sometimes Type M, and all come in either drawn tubing (hard copper) or annealed tubing (soft copper). The difference is only wall thickness for these common products with Type M being thinnest, Type K thickest for higher pressure service. The other difference that we see is that tubing designated "air conditioning/refrigeration (ACR)" is by actual OD dimension vs nominal OD (1/8" larger than the tube size). All tubing carrying the ASTM designation is 99.9% pure copper (according to the Copper Development Association), and is deoxidized by adding a small amount of phosphorus during processing.
I can't explain why the weld backed by tube vs buss bar material is different, other than perhaps the buss bar being dead flat, and the tube being pounded flat and having a bit of air gap that expands when heated? There's likely a better answer than that, but I don't have time to look any more right now.
Thanks again for the tip!
Thanks for posting the additional info on the copper. The bar being flat against the panel is a likely scenario, next time we employ the tube we'll have to bend in a flat area to see if that helps our issue.
Progress from this past week.. Kyle got started on media blasting the drivers side wheel well and I "assembled" the two components for the passenger side..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204869.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204876.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204877.jpg
We plan on epoxy primer on these prior to installation, so the media blasted surface will give a good bite for the primer.
Here's the test fit of the assembled passenger side wheel well...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204878.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204879.jpg
Next, the road trip on Friday.. To preface, a couple weeks ago someone had posted a link showing a Baileigh English wheel on eBay (the big one). In the background was one of the Baileigh power hammers. So I called the contact number in the ad, asked if the hammer was available, which he said yes. He gave me a price, asked for a deposit, and this past Friday was the pick up day. I left the house at 1:45 am, picked up my nephew Chris, and drove to CT. Got it loaded up, made it back to the house by 10 pm, quite a long day. Wait....it's supposed to rain tomorrow, let's unload! So we got it off the trailer and inside by 11. Saturday, after sleeping in, was spent locating a spot for the machine, hooking up power, and trying it out on some scrap metal..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204882.jpg
Excited to have this additional capability in the shop.
Nice machine. Liked the custom pinstriping
Those came out wicked for sure. Amazing work
Love the work on the wheel wells!
New tool, it's like Xmas!
Rich
The wheel well looks great. That new piece of equipment is awesome! Since we're on the topic of power hammers, what are your thoughts on one of these for a beginner?
Pneumatic Planishing Hammer
Thanks for the comments!
I've never used one of them to be able to provide a critique, but what are you trying to use it for? A planishing hammer is primarily used to smooth out dings/dents caused in forming process or perhaps body damage. If you're looking at it for shaping, it will likely be underpowered or take quite a bit of time to complete the process.. Where I've never been in my local HF store, I've read enough to know that you either need a coupon or pick up one of the many on CL from people who already have them. Perhaps answer a CL ad and ask to try it out first, see if it performs to your expectation. Not sure that the store has air available to kick the tires...Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Ryan: I show that same machine on page 9 post #132 in my build log.
Cheap, but works fine for planishing the blisters on my hood.
Any hammer form project makes it useful for me. Used it on
the tyrannie cover also.
Wait for a 20 percent off sale. No air at stores.
Rich
Thanks guys. I was thinking of using it for tranny covers and some odds and ends stuff. Something to try to learn on too I guess. :LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
I was referred to the post from my build log and wow this is some really in depth incredible work you have going here. The way you explain each picture n give a brief description of what's going on is really helpful, I will have to remember that for the next time I post. Looking forward to the progress, going to be a wicked mean ride.
Thanks!
Was working on finishing blocking roof and quarters Saturday when the high winds took out the power for a couple hours.. Not to be deterred, the Milwaukee flashlight comes to the rescue...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204886.jpg
Power came back on just after lunch and we got the next dose of Epoxy applied. These sure are some long quarters, I think I'll try a Yugo for the next project, shouldn't need anywhere near the paint prep...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204883.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204885.jpg
or the video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06HesZWWT5I
.
Those quarters were probably perfect 3 blocking ago! LOL..
Next time your out of power your welcome to use my garage and any tools, and ply your trade to my 48 F1! Nice work!:D:cool:
[QUOTE=34_40;561447]Those quarters were probably perfect 3 blocking ago! LOL..[/QUOTE
Given the amount of painstaking, amazing work, attention to detail and resulting perfection of this project, that first door ding at Walmart is probably going to make the owner consider a choice between murder & suicide.....:eek::eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
If the "owner" is foolish enough to take this to Wal-Mart, one of us needs to go take it away from him/her!:eek::LOL::LOL:
Little story. I was out in my 38 Chevy and wife called can you get me some bla bla bla at the store. Trying to be a nice guy I said sure. I went to a I think Kmart. I parked 2 football fields away from anyone else NOT a car any where. When I came out there were cars on both sides of me. Not a scratch but I was really P/Oed. Never again
Wait, the owner won't drive it? :LOL: We parked at a few wal marts when we caught the last part of power tour a few years back.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Man, that 55 is going to be ssstttrrraiiiggghhhtttt!!!!! Great work!
Thanks for the kind words fellas!
This is the first sprayout sample... we'll view these again tomorrow in the sunlight to see the true colors...
Chrysler pewter over H/K organic green.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GniinTcVDw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgDecIZdv04
.
beautiful color
Thanks! Here's our paint sample with some sunlight added. The incremental lines to make the radius really show up, but quite a bit of pop in the sunlight..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAZFi78fngA
That is going to look awesome!
WOW. That is an absolutely brilliant colour scheme.
Sorry for the lack of posts on shop projects, we've been cleaning the shop for the 2016 MD Tommasini Metalshaping Class. Here is a new sand bag we made up for the class, made from a full cow hide, it measures 40" x 24" x 4" high. We had some loose leather left over, so the top was wrapped to provide additional protection from any sharp metal... This uses just over four 5 gallon buckets of saved blast media to fill the bag, so we don't need any holes letting all that pour out on the floor!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1816.jpg
Some of the projects include duplicating these repro BMW saddlebags in aluminum, and this Mopar hood in aluminum......
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1817.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1818.jpg
Here Peter shows using the stump for tuck shrinking
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1820.jpg
Here Peter modifies the heel of a ball peen hammer for less marking while tuck shrinking...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1821.jpg
Here it is in use....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plpfX1aPAI0
Duplicating the hood....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1827.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1828.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1842.jpg
A local source was used to CNC a template for bead detail on some Model A p/u bedsides....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1831.jpg
Bead added....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1836.jpg
Motion picture version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSD_RUh6bMg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1848.jpg
Close-ups of the results...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1837.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1838.jpg
1937 Dodge coupe door repairs... the lower inner and lower door skins are fabricated...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1840.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1841.jpg
A complex architectural piece that was shrunk, stretched, planished, and reverses added, all with the same hammer...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1824.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1844.jpg
Saddle bags in process...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnapwrq0lzw
after wheeling...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1846.jpg
Some other efforts of shrinking, blocking, and planishing in making a fender profile and rear corner of a T-bucket in aluminum...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1854.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1853.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1852.jpg
Two days in the books, two to go!
Have you ever heard the phrase, "It makes my back hurt just looking at it"?
Lots of amazing stuff there, but I doubt I could stand there and beat on it that long.
Wow, great stuff!! Hard to believe how smooth that beading process is, a testament to your dies. What gauge was the
the alum for the hood, and how many in the class?
Rich
Love the videos too! You make it look easy, but your eye for getting complex shapes just right is incredible
Now I feel So............................inadequate.. sigh.
JK.. that stuff is so cool, thanks (as always) for thinking of us and getting all the pics.
Funnily enough I can relate exactly to what he said.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
...another sigh...
Ditto what he said there too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Thanks guys! Rich, we had eight students, the aluminum was 3003 half hard, .060 thick used on the hood..
The final two days of the Maryland Tommasini Metalshaping Class. We had two stumps that we gave to students to take home, here is the final version carved....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yH-M21yUok
I had some requests to show the mammoth sand bag with the loose cover removed... It saw quite a bit of use and came in handy!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1892.jpg
More repair parts were made for the 37 Dodge doors...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1858.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1859.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1860.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1861.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1866.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1868.jpg
The crease or "swage" at the top center of the hood was difficult to locate through the paper pattern.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1818.jpg
So the upper and lower "crease" was highlighted by using fineline tape alongside. Then a pencil was used on the outside of the paper pattern, which now showed the location. Better shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miZW1aOWwXg
The halves still need to be welded together using O/A.
Two of the ball glove pounding pads were put into service for metalshaping, one using shot, the other using sand..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1830.jpg
Peter showed lead loading method for aluminum...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1870.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1872.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1874.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...s/IMG_1876.jpg
A lot of very awesome work being done there! Thanks for sharing it with us!
I wanna come next year!
Do you have an apprenticeship program for busted down old vets?
Hamilton VA?
Today found us doing some repairs on a 4700 International. This is the second of these I've done in the past couple years. It seems International doesn't use quite enough heat on the spot welds holding the doors together. The panel inside the door that serves to bolt to the hinges is prone to separation from vibration and just plain day to day abuse that these trucks see. So we drilled out all the spot welds that had already failed, drilled some 1/8" holes to pull the panel back in place with some wing nut clecos, and plug welded things back in place..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1921.jpg
The missing paint shows how much the door was flopping around. There was only a few spot welds left up at the top..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1924.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1923.jpg
With the hinge panel welded back in place, the door sets where it belongs now, good gaps, and the latch holds!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1925.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1926.jpg
Crikey!
To have the door of your truck fall apart like that would be enough to bring a tear to a glass eye.
Just as well you are in their vicinity to make it better than new.
I guess QA/QC was off that day..
Can't say I've seen that one before. But in this case it's a good thing.