Slacker!!!!!!!!! Lol..
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Slacker!!!!!!!!! Lol..
Y'all keep it up you're gonna give him a complex: and those legs will get chromed with gold pin stripes.
Chrome? Now there's an idea....
Rec'd a care package in the mail the other day. I guess the sample of polyurethane was a hint for me to try this as well :LOL: Thanks Rich!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1128.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1129.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1130.jpg
I would love to have you try it, although I doubt there is much you haven't done with metal! That's just a little
thank you for all the great info that you post for every one.
That sample is the piece that was used to press design, I do one letter area at a time.
Thank's again, Rich
Well I'm back from UK, Kyle is still plugging away on stainless polishing and repairs..
Here's just a few of the implements used. And I must stress, this is not an 18 ga panel, with stainless trim we use light taps for everything.
Here's a piece of Delrin that was cut out and filed to match the bottom side of the door trim to act as a soft "anvil".
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204379.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204380.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204381.jpg
Then a spoon is used to bump.... LIGHTLY
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204383.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204382.jpg
Many ways of bringing up low spots, here are just a couple of the tools used...
This is a roller tool used for installing the "beading" to hold in screen material. The roller has been flattened from the original version, which had a hollow in the middle. A 3" roloc sander held just right will get the wheel spinning while sanding it flat..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204384.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204385.jpg
In many cases you'll bump the highs down, roll the lows out, and check your progress using the fluorescent light tube reflections, and repeat. It is not likely this is a one and done process.
Another tool that can sneak in behind flanges.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204386.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204387.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204388.jpg
Also used some dry sanding with the durablock, here using 500 then 1200 paper.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204389.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204390.jpg
Then followed with the Trizact 1500, then 3000. Then it should be ready for the buffer..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204378.jpg
Eeesh. Don't catch the edge or corner, or you're back to the bumping block.
My hat's off to ya, that is some tedious, time consuming detail work!
Thanks! Sorry for the hiatus, the day job had me travelling, two weeks in UK and two weeks in HI. Got back this past Sunday.
Tuesday afternoon we loaded up the wagon and dropped it off for media blasting.. should pick it up this weekend.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204391.jpg
Tonight I worked on getting the Go Kart Slick hub fabricated for the wheeling machine..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20026.jpg
I had stopped at a local machine shop and picked up a 3-1/2" diameter slug left over from their water jet. After some cleanup work on the South Bend, and a clearance hole for the 35mm upper shaft on the wheeling machine...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204393.jpg
I had found this roller bearing (35mm ID) on ebay, as well as this thrust bearing...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204394.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204392.jpg
Getting close...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204397.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204398.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204400.jpg
Bearing installed....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204404.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204408.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204409.jpg
With slick held in place, the alignment looks pretty good...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204402.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204403.jpg
Motion picture version....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwVhZzGkBCE
Still need to drill and tap the three lug holes and install the outer thrust bearing.. and then we can get working on the re-skinning of the glove box door..
very cool. Envious of your part making skills!
Dang.. it musta been hard hanging the chevy from the ceiling!:eek:**):D
What will the slick do when complete?? And please don't say form metal! :rolleyes::p:)
The slick makes the wheeling machine into more of a slip roll. Two hard wheels will add some stretch, where the panel will show crown in both directions. (lengthwise, sideways) Using the slick, and the lower die pushing up into it (as it's only partially inflated) the panel as it goes through assumes the radius of the lower anvil (sideways direction) and remains all but flat lengthwise. Think nice long rocker panel.....
Punched some louvers this evening in 18 gauge polished stainless...
Motion pictures this evening....Punching...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yph2x9Woq8I
Finished....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdXGRXDxn8M
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204410.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204411.jpg
Nice work as usual and thanks for taking the time to video tape the how to do process
Man, that is awesome! Great work!
Thanks guys. I did have a slight defect that didn't show that well (but you know I noticed..), asked Cody if he wanted it remade. He says, this is for under the car.. :D
Well today was our Saturday so we put the newly installed GoKart slick to use on the cast wheeling machine, along with the 4" diameter lower anvil. Started with slight pressure and gradually increased. Tire was about 1/2 deflated.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204412.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204413.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204414.jpg
The sides (as shown) had been left a bit long to keep from flattening out fingertips, so now we trimmed one side and marked for the bends. The tipping wheel in the bead roller was used to thin the bend area for a bit of friendly persuasion..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204417.jpg
These were fun. About 3/16" from bend to bend....or less. Had to use all the tricks, hem is still loose, we'll epoxy all the pieces apart and then assemble, making all the folds tight.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204420.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204421.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204422.jpg
Still have the lock hole to go as well, we are going to leave this one smooth as opposed to the factory's vertical bead to simulate the gap at the ashtray..
Wow.... just wow!
Thanks for the detail shots of the slick at work. NOW, it finally makes sense to me! LOL..
Well with a nice radius on the face of the glove box door skin, we now need a flat area for the lock cylinder. Since I had a piece of Polyurethane here from the care package Rich B had sent me, it seemed the right tool for the job. (Thanks Rich!)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204424.jpg
The lock cylinder hole was added using a step drill for the hole and a die grinder for the notch.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204425.jpg
A punch is used to add the needed stretch to provide the flat area..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204426.jpg
Starting to take shape..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204427.jpg
Some fine tuning of the detail...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204429.jpg
The bottom flange was measured, trimmed, and folded in the Diacro press brake
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204430.jpg
The side flanges were tipped slightly in the Bead Roller.. This also gives us a nice mark to show the fold line..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204431.jpg
Touched up with the DA
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204433.jpg
With the three flanges folded to a 90, now we'll media blast and epoxy before assembling the two halves.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204440.jpg
This shows the tipping tool used on the side flanges.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204442.jpg
With lock cylinder. Looks almost factory...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204446.jpg
Well last night's efforts saw us media blasting, hanging the next batch of small parts for epoxy primer, and general cleanup.......which has been sorely needed. So we don't have much of interest to show, so let's turn it over to Dana (the owner) who got these parts powder coated yesterday for us...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...5/IMG_1229.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...5/IMG_1230.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...5/IMG_1231.jpg
Robert. On items like the hood hinges. Do you paint the hinge in say the "open" position, and then do them in a "closed" position? Or do you not worry about there being a point where there may not be any paint on the part.?.?
HMmm.. maybe I'm being to anal?? LOL.
Those were powder coated. We had them rebuilt, and Willie from hoodhingerepair (awesome work btw) gave her the process to use. I think they are coated in one position, moved while still fresh to reveal the bare spots and coated again. Not 100% sure on the process, she talked directly to Willie.. But they are about as coated as they're gonna be, given something riveted together....
**************edit************
Just got off the phone with Dana. Dry powder is applied while hinges in closed position, then opened and sprayed again. Since they are normally "viewed" in the open position, this is the position they are sprayed last. Then the entire thing is baked. I would have thought this would seal them together, but she said it opens fine after all that...
Thanks (as always) for the info Robert.
I've got a pretty good selection of dies for the bead roller and thought these may come in handy if we could adapt them to the lower anvil cradle on the Wheeling Machine.. I've got a couple dies I use for tipping, and you never know when some other odd shape may help out in a pinch. The Fasti bead roller uses a .94 shaft for the dies, so we started with an oilite bearing, 15/16 outer to 3/4 inner diameter, then a 3/4 outer to 1/2 inner, supported on a piece of 1/2" diameter hardened Stainless..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204423.jpg
The two oilites were a tight fit, so they were "pressed" together in the vise..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204435.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204436.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204438.jpg
And to finish it off we have a couple of shaft collars on the way so the die won't walk on us while in use..
Saturday had us performing major shop cleanup so we could better get to an assembly line efficiency in polishing stainless trim and block sanding painted parts. I guess we walked past this one too many times...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20027.jpg
....and since the Lennox still had some dies in it from last week....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20028.jpg
The outer perimeter will get trimmed a bit more and we'll add a small bead detail on the very edge prior to bolting it on...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...heel%20030.jpg
Awesome work! You even had to trick out your stand. Very nice! :LOL:
Thanks!
Well the two weeks plus of non stop rain has finally subsided where the media blasting could commence. Got a phone call today that the car was ready to pick up.. Here it is before we loaded it up..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204455.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204456.jpg
This is the part where you wish you had a tilt bed trailer so any media residue would be persuaded on out on the return trip home... But alas, we found a combination of using the air hose and a shop vac best to evacuate most of the media. That and about 50 or so revolutions on the rotisserie.....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204457.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204450.jpg
Real pleased with how well it turned out... here moved into the booth and the dehumidifier energized.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204451.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204452.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204453.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204454.jpg
We do have some pin holes that are more apparent now, so we'll get those fixed Saturday morning and see how the weather looks for priming in the afternoon..
Wow what a long way you guys have gone from the start of this incredible project. Wish I had your skills time and patience !Excellent work and thanks for all of your detailed posts and sharing of your knowledge.
That looks great! I hope the weather works with you so you can get some primer and sealer on that beast!
Thanks! Well, no primer just yet, while Kyle was taking care of some pin holes that became more obvious after media blasting...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204458.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204480.jpg
I ran across this...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204464.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204463.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204462.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204461.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204460.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204459.jpg
With so much widespread "issues", let's see if we can come close to duplicating this.. Taking a paper pattern..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204465.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204466.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204467.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204468.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204469.jpg
Here laid out on some 19 gauge AKDQ...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204470.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204471.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204472.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204473.jpg
Trimming...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204474.jpg
But I always prefer a test sample first... this done on the tipping wheel
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204475.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204476.jpg
Step dies on the Lennox add the final detail...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204477.jpg
Need to fine tune the dimensions, but this looks close. I think I'll make up some dies for the Lennox for better consistency on the good piece..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204478.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204479.jpg
Should be priming soon... once the dominos stop falling.
This is such a quality job and by that I mean to see the craftsmanship you put into this project keeps reminding me that there are true craftsmen out there...........great job!!
Nice work! I'm curious to see which tooling you use to put the round indentations/bulges in it.
Oh, that will be the easy part.. ;)
Time to make some dies for the Lennox, here fine tuning the fit..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204482.jpg
The outside corners will get some steel added for a sharper detail in the bends..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204483.jpg
The 19 ga steel is a good snug fit for the band saw cuts...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204484.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204485.jpg
The front edge of the panel will be tipped prior to running it through the Lennox, the tipped flange will act as a guide in the slot in the lower die..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204491.jpg
Another test run using a straight piece of scrap
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204486.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204488.jpg
Dimensions looking much better.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204489.jpg
Enough practice, starting to tip the flange on the good piece.. The tipping wheel on the bead roller bends about 30 degrees and the remaining is done manually with the hand tipping tool..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204492.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204493.jpg
Flange tipped, some kick shrinking to get the right contour, and we're about ready for the Lennox.. As Kyle was off tonight we'll wait until he returns so we can have two people feeding this long piece through the machine..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204495.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204496.jpg
As we found with some of the practice pieces, when you try to shove metal too much into a hole it tends to pull in from the edges.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204501.jpg
So to fix that we'll make up a new bottom die to form the ramp fold fully, then change back to the above die to form the step..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204500.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204497.jpg
The down side to using phenolic is that it gives a bit where it doesn't make sharp creases well or short reverse folds either. The initial practice pieces wouldn't fold the step down flat, so a wrap of steel was added to the top die to better persuade the step flat...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204503.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204504.jpg
The upper die holder helps keep the wrapped steel in place.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204505.jpg
That did the trick, step is laying down nice and flat..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204498.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204499.jpg
The front flange hangs over just a bit too much, some hammer action will bring it back in place. Real pleased with how well this turned out..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204506.jpg
Some of the practice scraps..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204507.jpg
Robert, that is awesome! You do great work. I wish you were closer so I could come watch you do some of this.
Can't learn watching. I'd have to put you to work... ;)
.
Next task on the list is to add the semi-circular relief areas into the new cowl repair panel..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204478.jpg
A suitable piece of Phenolic is cut out, notched at the bottom for "vise support", and used a roloc sander and drum sander to add the relief area in the "hammer form".
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204509.jpg
Here's the Vise support shown in action... should remain nice and stable through all the hammer action..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204510.jpg
Centerline of the hammerform marked, as well as on the vise, to better align our new cowl..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204511.jpg
Door skin hammer will be used here to provide the radius, this one was touched up as the factory radius was a bit too large.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204512.jpg
Tried it on one of our scrap pieces first..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204513.jpg
Back side..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204517.jpg
Front side and comparison to the factory version
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204516.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204521.jpg
Action video showing the process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TawUVtIl5w
super work video was very cool too!
Awesome! Thanks for the vid. You sure make it look easy. I'm going to have to join youtube and subscribe to you so I can start watching and get some good guidance when I get back to my 40.
That's 4X speed on Movie Maker, so realistically about 5 minutes per detail. Took as long to make the hammer form die as to hammer out those four details....
A bit further along on the cowl repair.. Repair patch trimmed to size...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204522.jpg
....and then scribed to the cowl area, which gets rough cut using the 4-1/2" cut off wheel. About 1/4" excess is left for final trimming using the snips..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204523.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204524.jpg
That should flow some air...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204569.jpg
Tacked in place..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204570.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204571.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204572.jpg
Thanks for the pics and sharing the knowledge. ( as always!)
I know if I was to attempt the repair.. it wouldn't look as nice as yours but at least the job isn't as scary after seeing your working through it.
So thanks for that education too.