Yes, and in the sunlight the H/K has the most pop..
Printable View
Yes, and in the sunlight the H/K has the most pop..
That's about the same style of green I want to paint my 95 F350 if I ever get that far on it. :LOL:
I got a shade of green for ya :LOL: Really the 9 oclock one is my choice too.
Like the color matching shirt the missus has to go with it!
Robert:
Great stuff as always, I love the speaker grill!
Seeing the spray outs reminds me of the difficulty I had finding a gray color I liked that had no metallic
in it. I wondered if you had ever left the metallic out of a chosen color to try to achieve a certain look?
I take it this would be possible with a mixing bank? I realize it would make the color much darker, but would
this even be a viable option?
Rich
One side of my family runs a small disposal company. About a dozen trash trucks.. all green and just like your samplers!
I refuse to own any green vehicle! 8-)
We took a short break from the wagon as we were getting set up for a metalshaping class at the shop a couple weeks ago. Here's some highlights..
Our guest instructor this year was Pat Brubaker of Custom Rides in Hastings Nebraska. We focused on minimal tools this year. A largely forgotten tool that is (was) seen in many shops is the arbor press. Pat has developed a die set to use in the arbor press that makes it an invaluable tool to have in your metalshaping arsenal.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3P...w=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kV...U=w684-h911-no
This video shows tuck shrinking, much the same as using the stump, but here using less impact for less stress added to the panel..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUQghpUVohU
Pete Hagan brought some 2002 BMW front fenders to practice with, one having a noticeable dent in the front..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lg...Y=w684-h911-no
Here we match up one of the dies to match the crown of the rear of the fender, and try our hand at removing a dent using the arbor press.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oI9U0YJS9E
It did a good job of removing the majority of the damage, and more importantly, without adding any more stretch. Minimal work at this point would have this ready for paint.
We also discussed various pattern techniques, and the benefits realized with each one. One of the class participants, Laser with a Z, had brought a 1961 Impala front valance to duplicate, as it had many rust issues.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vY...=w1215-h912-no
Some of the rust issues were filled with clay in order to get a more accurate pattern.
Flexible shape patterns show better the amount of shape in the panel, and paper patterns were used to get an accurate read on panel material size.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bD...k=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dt...o=w684-h911-no
The replacement panel was made in two pieces and welded together. Laser did a nice job of welding, note the consistent width in the HAZ for minimal distortion..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2J...Y=w684-h911-no
Comparison:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KV...Q=w684-h911-no
Jake's project for the class was a replacement for our practice fan shroud from last month.. The rear edge was unfinished, so we aimed to fix that, and also make it out of aluminum to better match the radiator.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TJ...U=w684-h911-no
To finish off the rear edge, we chose to add a bead to the edge and a hemmed flange to close it off, keeping the hem flat so as not to interfere with the fan.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1P...0=w684-h911-no
The beads were added, flanges tipped to attach to the baffle panel, and the linear stretch dies in the Lennox used to stretch the correct outer radius.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nf...=w1215-h912-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e0...=w1215-h912-no
We attempted various welding methods to attach the shroud to the baffle plates. The spot welder lacked the balls to make the welds, and TIG spot welds or weld passes seemed to add more distortion to our practice pieces than the precise circle we had rolled would tolerate. So we used some stainless hardware and nylock nuts to hold the parts together..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ym...=w1215-h912-no
Here are some videos of the installed shroud..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSQf_V4Jyi8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZQBxsxkorQ
Some of the tips and tricks shared at the class, here is a table "extension" for a band saw to permit cutting of crowned panels SAFELY..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNjxTbD4VrQ
Charlie has been to our class three years in a row, and he is a pretty sharp cookie. Like some of us and getting older, he has the unfortunate issue of arthritis in his hands, and finds difficulty in using hand snips. In much the same fashion as the Beverly shears, Charlie modified a pair of right angle Midwest shears to use a handle for easier operation..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9S...g=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EV...c=w684-h911-no
Action video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLr76hsdIxM
Material capacity stays the same, operation just becomes a bit easier, especially for those with arthritis conditions..
Man, that is so awesome! Very nice work and cool adapting old tools to get it done!
We got the wagon parts pulled out of the booth this past weekend where we had them stored during the metalshaping class.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aT...=w1215-h912-no
Getting back to tying up some loose ends.. Mike cuts out the driver side of the console..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H8...c=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7o...8=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MW...Q=w684-h911-no
All ready for thinning the bend lines..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fU...s=w684-h911-no
.....while Jake and I worked on tipping the edge on the second seat bolster..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vw...g=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vu...M=w684-h911-no
Been in Florida the past couple weeks for the day job, got back in time for Saturday's shop day. Jake worked on the rear seat bolster, the top profile was traced from the one we made for the driver's side but this mark needs to be on the opposite side for us to tip the flange. Easy transfer is to use a punch on the line to transfer the mark's location through the panel and then trace..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8U...U=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6I...E=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ns...Y=w684-h911-no
....and then he used various round anvils for hammer forming the corners.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sr...0=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hb...w=w684-h911-no
I got started on welding in the corners of the passenger console side...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1U...k=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AW...M=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ll...o=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m1...0=w684-h911-no
This might work yet...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vt8wdVuMI-I
While Jake was tipping flanges he needed some stretch in the crowned area. Looking at the too many pieces that came out of the Erco, it's possible that Jake has too much kick. We made some new spring plates out of 1/16 stainless sheet..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cX...8=w684-h911-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wc...Q=w684-h911-no
Back in business...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4F...8=w684-h911-no
This thread is just full of amazing work.
Thanks Bam, you're no slouch yourself!
This weekend's progress... Jake finishing up on the seat bolsters.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RA...Q=w717-h955-no
We don't always have the right tools to use, so on occasion we make them. This corner of the panel needed a sharper shape on the anvil
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6A...E=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1...Q=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cr...0=w717-h955-no
With both bolsters done and fitted to the rear seat, Jake media blasted both and hung them up in the booth where he applied some SPI Epoxy primer.
Meanwhile Mike and I worked on getting the driver's side of the console folded up..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BF...Q=w717-h955-no
We started by using the tipping die in the Lennox for thinning the bend lines. This both gives a sharper bend and also gives a "feel" for when the press brake's upper die is located in the proper bend location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I87VWj-Qetc
Here's the highly technical back stop used to set the fold distance. We have a growing collection of these starting as the dimensional requirements change..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u_...4=w717-h955-no
With two sides now, a spacer was made to clamp in the middle to hold our proper width..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v_...Q=w717-h955-no
Seats above are all the way forward, compare front location to next picture where they have been moved back to normal location, as well as mocking up the Chevelle shifter..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q0...=w1274-h955-no
Next we'll get the radius pieces added and start on the internal structures of the console.
Progress last night on the console, as I was welding the remaining bits in the drivers console side (sorry, no pics) Jake was using the GoKart slick in the Wheeling machine to add the correct contour to the rear panel for the console...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMFuDumaXo0
Matches up well.....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vn...E=w746-h994-no
Then he made some practice side pieces so we could test the fitment to the rear panel after using the tank roll die in the Lennox. There's quite a bit of work in the console sides at this point, and we didn't want them to be the guinea pigs..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A4...e=w746-h994-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aW...E=w746-h994-no
View of them clamped:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33LE8EXzt4E
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rt...K=w746-h994-no
We can use this rear panel on the console, and this weekend we'll use the tank roll die on the console sides and get them welded together..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fK...=w1326-h994-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TT...=w1326-h994-no
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone on Club Hotrod!
More progress today on the console, time to weld in the back section.. We had it clamped like so:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QZ...p=w717-h955-no
But on second thought, it should be clamped on the upper portion...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ol...-=w717-h955-no
....and to keep the bottoms from sliding out from under, some spacers were made out of scrap wood....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C_...=w1274-h955-no
Tacked and welded with the TIG....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cl...w=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r4..._=w717-h955-no
Jake cut out some corners, tipped some flanges, and used the Vise Grip tucking tool to gather up some of the excess metal. A torch heats up the tucks for an easy flattening.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bq...w=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mG..._=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5G...G=w717-h955-no
Trimmed and test fit...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SD...u=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5t...r=w717-h955-no
Inner corner finished in the same fashion...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eG...V=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d5...D=w717-h955-no
I find this work just amazing. From flat to a form to a structure. WOW.
As always thanks for the pics and sharing the knowledge. Merry Christmas to you and the family as well.
Merry Christmas back at you and everyone here, and once again thanks for all of these great posts and pictures!
Very nice work! The console is looking sweet!
Happy New Year to everybody!
Had a visit by the shop this week from cousin JB, who works at Interiors by Shannon in Alabama. He was up for the holidays. They have recently picked up a bead roller so we did some practice runs on pre-stretched and non-stretched beads, and then some beads using the Lennox Nibbler. Finished up with some shrinking on the MH-19. We ran out of time to punch louvers. Great to see him again, nice to spend time "playing" in the shop.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m0...H=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b3...H=w717-h955-no
Progress on the console this weekend... Mike is still in California visiting family, so Jake and I have been texting pics to him of what he's missing haha..
Corner number two, we've already shown some shrinking, so no we'll show stretching the inside corner..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ex...x=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u8...=w1274-h955-no
Placing the part on a suitable flat anvil, a barrel roll hammer is used to provide stretch the inner corner...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W-...e=w717-h955-no
You get to a point where flat is no longer useful, so then we use another anvil, this one in the form of a square tube. Works well for what we're doing here...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eA...u=w717-h955-no
Fitted and welded....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P8...C=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/01...c=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pR...=w1274-h955-no
Next, a pattern made of the rear hump for trimming the console.. we'll keep it snug for now for placing anchors and then trim later for carpet and sound deadening space.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rO...D=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Il...=w1274-h955-no
More console progress today, started off using Rotacutter to put a hole in the transmission tunnel for the shifter cable. The bulkhead seal that came with the cable has some mounting holes, we'll use some AVK style rivet nuts for ease of installation/replacement.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iG...2=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q1...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hi...=w1274-h955-no
More anchors welded to the floor, some "crossmembers" fabricated, and welded into the console.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bM...C=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yv...z=w717-h955-no
To locate the holes in the crossmembers, some spotters are set in the anchors, console placed, and crossmember tapped from above to mark.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cB...y=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ab...W=w717-h955-no
Next we need to close off the front of the storage cavity to give us an anchor point for the latch. So we started the fabrication but found some limitations in our acute dies for the press brake.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jG...=w1274-h955-no
Not quite enough bend, so we opted for a piece of sharpened 12 ga cold rolled to give us a bit more....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dx...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IS...=w1274-h955-no
Trimmed and welded in place...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/om...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XP...=w1175-h881-no
Video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiOet_0AwO0
.
We were originally going to hinge the console lid along the passenger side, but thought it would be better accessible from either front seat if it was hinged at the rear. We're using the same hinge as we used for the widened glove box door. In our attempt to add a torsion spring to keep the lid upright in the open position, we couldn't find the size to fit our 1/8" diameter hinge pin with enough torsion to hold the lid open. (Yes, even McMaster failed us) So we decided to wrap our own. Here's a fixture we made for the Aloris tool holder on the South Bend to act as a guide for the 1/16" music wire.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GS...S=w717-h955-no
We also installed the older 3 jaw chuck, but not before adding a "wire catch"
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Pd...c=w717-h955-no
Here's a video of us wrapping the spring... As my South Bend lacks slow enough speed for such a task, we opted for manual rotation..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvJAIk1-Cs4
Here's the positioning and function of the hinge with torsion spring installed...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPPY2dVOzmQ
With our hinge now positioned, we also found we needed to move the hinge closer to the rear edge for better lid clearance while open. Back up and punt you say?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rm...f=w717-h955-no
As always, amazing and clever! Thank You for another lesson..
Very nice work. I know you have told us before, but where do you source the hole locating pins you use? Those roto cutters are nice. I might have to start buying some of those. They look like they would work a lot better than a regular hole saw.
Ryan, the original.. Home - Rotabroach
you can find cheaper, I mean "more economical" knock-offs around.
Ryan, these were Rotacut hole cutters by Hougen, look at MSC Industrial or similar as a source. The arbor uses a spring loaded center, 1/8 diameter for the smaller sizes and 1/4 for the larger, IIRC. We typically extend the center and use set screw to lock it stationary, then use the cutter with a pre-drilled hole to accommodate the center pin. We've found this more precise than the spring loaded functionality slipping out of a punched divot.
*********edit********
Missed the locating pin part, do a search on blind hole spotters. Most Industrial suppliers carry them, you can get a complete set with about 6 ea size, but I believe Spellman makes the "originals"
http://www.rlspellmanmfg.com/spellma...leSpotters.htm
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3414a11/=1b59vyf
Very nice as usual, thanks for keeping us updated !
Didn't get as many pictures this weekend as I'd have liked. While I worked on some final details on the console, Jake made some cardboard templates of our rear armrests. These will also serve to hide the seat belt retractors for the front buckets, as well as the rear speakers.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bZ...=w1186-h889-no
Here Jake transferring the pattern to some 19 gauge cold rolled, cleaning up some of the lines as well...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X-...2=w667-h889-no
I was welding in the front cross piece that Jake made to the console and had some underside welds to do. Sometimes we make it easier on ourselves, especially if we can't weld upside-down all too well..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/L_...E=w667-h889-no
Suspended from the door track...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5-..._=w667-h889-no
The hinge at the rear now moved rearward, metal added for mounting the hinge and securing the "storage recess".
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eT...=w1186-h889-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4N..._=w667-h889-no
That looks great, and thanks for the links!
Boy this one has been a pile of work. but it's coming down the home stretch it seems.
I noticed Cosmo is looking on. He seems to approve. LOL
Scary if it meets Kramer's approval... :LOL:
OK, here's our update for the past couple weeks..
We're working on getting the seats ready to go to the upholsterer, and these 2002 Monte Carlo seat belts just aren't cutting it...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hO...Y=w717-h955-no
This these belts are riveted to a bracket that stands off from the seat, and we'll need to stand off our replacement as well. So the rivets are removed and the new seat belt gets bolted to the same bracket using 1/2" bolt, grade 8. The "new" seat belts look much more vintage correct.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RR...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8N...=w1274-h955-no
With console in place and bezel checked to proper height, anchors are set in place for welding to the floor pan. Bolted to shifter plate for proper alignment and standoffs used to provide space to get in there and weld...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SR...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2V...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s8...=w1274-h955-no
Next, our replacement for the parking brake pull handle didn't fit just right so an extension was added that will use factory holes, we do need to drill the firewall for the studs out the front end..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/11...Z=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2E...=w1274-h955-no
Jake's progress on the rear seat kick panel...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ud...C=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gi...=w1274-h955-no
Tipping wheel on the Fasti folds over the top flange that will hold our arm rest..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ji...=w1274-h955-no
Bolting bracket that will secure the kick panel to the inner quarter..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SY...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LE...=w1274-h955-no
And here we're cutting out our console lid...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FE...y=w717-h955-no
Thinning bend lines for a more crisp bend...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8T...b=w717-h955-no
A piece of round rod in our magnetic brake gives us radius-ed corners...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b7...g=w717-h955-no
A few passes in the Tommasini Wheeling Machine gives a bit of crown for better support
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eI...x=w717-h955-no
Corner details TIG welded in...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X6...=w1274-h955-no
Corner detail test fit...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EP...2ni37m=s955-no
There we go, all caught up!
Excellent!
So much awesomeness going on there!
Cosmo and I approve! rotflmao :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
As always, Thanks Robert.
Thanks for the comments!
More work on the lid...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_f...=w1275-h957-no
Lid hangs over slightly in the front to serve as our only pull/lift for opening the lid, nice and tidy. It will be held closed using rare earth magnets.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tD..._=w717-h956-no
Video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3cAFzk8Zfc
Our kick panels for the rear seat also need some support against the inner quarter panel to help hold the arm rest.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jG...=w1275-h957-no
Jake bent up a 1 x 1 angle out of 19 gauge and used the Erco to match the contour of the kick panel. In order to not block off the window mechanism access panel, we'll bolt it to that panel.. As we have yet to install all of our interior/carpet/upholstery, we made the support adjustable so we can match the kick panel height at installation.. Video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wicUAwkqvAI
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qe...=w1275-h957-no
More details on the console, we had hemmed all the edges to help protect the upholstery when it gets wrapped, but the tunnel cutout at the rear still needed an "added" hem. Then our hem is tacked in place, edges adjusted with a drum sander, and the two edges fusion welded together using the TIG.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6y...=w1275-h957-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fb...=w1275-h957-no
....and sanded smooth..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q_...=w1275-h957-no
Next, layout and folding the insert for the console. Some parts needed to fill in voids will be added later..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KZ...=w1275-h957-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VN...=w1275-h957-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a8...L=w717-h956-no
Test fit....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kt...s=w717-h956-no
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J20U5oIL8vw
More progress on the wagon, making our insert for the console whole...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...D=w717-h955-no
Clamped up for tacking with the TIG welder...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qD...r=w717-h955-no
Video of fusion tacks:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO2a915SAuk
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XK...m=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ki...O=w717-h955-no
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr69SZk7YXI
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VV...7=w717-h955-no
Adding in the corner for the rear kick panel...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ec...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q_...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8T...=w1274-h955-no
.....getting closer all the time..
That is looking great! This really makes me want to build a steel console for my 40 now.
Finishing up our floor weldments so we can visit the local Line-x for "undercoating" this coming week.. Our bucket seats have one bolt that went through the floor, and we wanted to eliminate the need for two people to install/remove the hardware.. We came up with a plate fitted to the floor pan channel that we welded a hex nut onto. This plate will allow us to plug weld to the floor...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ob...w1340-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AI...=w754-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bd...=w754-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rI...=w754-h1005-no
The rear quarter also has some bolting pads where the side ears to the rear bumper is bolted through. We needed to make stiffener plates to strengthen this area.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dM...w1340-h1005-no
We made use of some tubing in the scrap pile to make a punch and anvil... Everything's a tool...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ry...=w754-h1005-no
Alignment marks in the centers of the tubes..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tl...=w754-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/25...=w754-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ns...w1340-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GP...w1340-h1005-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J8...w1340-h1005-no
Ready for Line-x
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bL...w1340-h1005-no
Awesome as always. I'm hoping to make a metal cup holder for Rita to blend in with everything. Watching you helps!