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I have the transfer punches as well. The primary difference is the transfers are used on through holes as you described, the spotters are used in a closed hole where you can't use a punch.. On a budget, get a screw the correct thread, cut the head off, chuck up in a drill and use an angle sander to make the point, then screw into place. The spotters have a better point than I can do on the lathe, though.. :LOL:
C'mon.. any one who works metal like you do.. can't do a point in a lathe?!?!?! :eek:
I'll never believe it! :LOL::D:LOL::rolleyes:
I'm going to blame it on needing new cutters... :p
Thanks for posting that! I need to get me some spotters! Great work too.
Check it out. I use the second set down from the topQuote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies
I was blocking out the tailgate the other day and had a "halo" effect appear in the epoxy, shown below just to the right of the latch hole. This has a light skim of Evercoat 416 beneath the epoxy in that area. It was nice and flat while in bare metal, after spraying epoxy, after blocking the Evercoat/ before spraying the last coat of epoxy. I was baffled at what would cause such a nicely formed circle in the paint...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202939.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202940.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202942.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202944.jpg
Even scratched the area to see if there was any softness to the Evercoat, but no..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202947.jpg
Here's the panel in bare steel before paint and after first coat of epoxy...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202350.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202366.jpg
No dings, or defects otherwise seen. I had posted a query on the SPI forum to see if anyone had ever run into this. I don't know why I didn't think of this first, but it was suggested to: 1) look inside 2) only time this type of defect had been seen was dropping screwdriver inside door and left similar mark on outside of door bottom after sanding.
So in full investigative mode, I first measured the distance of the defect from the turn latch hole..
The Halo is approx. 3" away from the handle hole..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202982.jpg
Measuring that distance on the inside shows.....oh wait....what's that bare metal?
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202983.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202984.jpg
As soon as I saw this I realized there had only been one thing inside that could have caused it... the painting fixture we made..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202985.jpg
This was made to hold the tail gate in correct alignment as on the car for painting. I had radiused the lower bar but failed to do so on the top one. A check of the skin with body sweeps shows that a #15 sweep is about correct, so it was used to verify some relief grinding on the top bar...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202986.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202987.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202988.jpg
As added insurance, some truck cap gasket seal was added to further isolate the issue on both top and bottom bar....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202989.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202990.jpg
On a positive note, glad to find this issue in the primer stage......
But let's back up a second and look at this picture, it should have been my red flag. Where the second mark to the left in the picture was not as round, looking at it now does show a rather symmetrical device was causing this..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202940.jpg
So please use my lesson in dumassery to prevent a similar occurrence. :whacked:
And on another note, Scott came by the other evening after getting the motorcycle back together... The owner had decided to leave off the decals, so it's all black with metallic...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202977.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202978.jpg
I had to read the halo effect three times, but I think I have it figured out.
You are saying that the fixture put a dent in the skin, which showed up as a high point. Which caused the halo upon sanding.
Yes, the pointed corner at the top made a ding from the inside. Was kinda freaky to see that halo show up so perfectly formed as you are sanding... like where the heck did that come from?
Another job in the shop, here's one of the downfalls of the insulation blankets the factory used above exhaust systems...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202991.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202992.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202993.jpg
Nice moisture traps and rust generators. All the used beds found either had similar rust issues or the lower quarters rounded under where the salvage yards had removed them and set them down on the ground. So we went back to the local dealer and ordered the bed floor and new cross members. We have a couple cross members that still haven't arrived, but we can get started in prepping for epoxy primer on the parts we do have..
Scuffing up the floor using 400 grit. Here's the new apprentice for this job, my niece Katie. (her truck) She's not afraid of work and needed little instruction.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202997.jpg
All scuffed, now to wait on the cross members to come in..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203002.jpg
Meanwhile Kyle and I have continued blocking body parts for another dose of epoxy...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202996.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202998.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203003.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203000.jpg
Well.. I guess if ya gotta fix a rusty truck.. at least the help is easy on the eyes.. just sayin'..:rolleyes:
Does Kyle get anything done while she's there?? :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Yeah, surprisingly so.... :LOL:
Got some more SPI Epoxy sprayed, here's the parts for Katie's truck that she prepped...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203010.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203011.jpg
....and some more on the wagon parts....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203013.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203014.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203015.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203016.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203017.jpg
Looks fantastic!
Thanks!
Tonight's post offers some blocking pointers.
We had already done a couple sessions of priming/blocking the door across to the quarter and to the fender, all installed on the car. After this, more primer and put a perimeter of tape on the door skin. Now block separately, and the tape allows you to block the door and keep off the edge to prevent losing your match to the fender/quarter.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203031.jpg
I don't stick with 45* angles, if you want to keep a long direction flat, you need the long block to better follow that direction. So change up to some sharper angles, about 30* off the long direction every now and then. Work one end to the other, consistent spacing, consistent angle, end to end. Then alternate to passes in the opposite direction.
Once done, and the inner part is good and blocked, now remove the tape and GENTLY block to the edge, taking care to not pull down at the edge and round things back off again. Whatever hand is holding the block make sure it is minimal pressure and stays on the door skin. In other words, no pressure pulling down past the edge.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203034.jpg
One other point, to keep the inner end of the sanding block from sanding out all your hard work in the center of the door, put a wrap of tape around the end of the sanding block that is towards the center of the door. This helps that end to glide across the center of the door without cutting primer there.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203033.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203036.jpg
Now to show the importance of the long board..
We had done some blocking with the 27" AFS and seemed to have two high spots with a low in the middle of the door..
Note the high areas marked by the green tape...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203024.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203026.jpg
Now we can see that as the sander is moved to the left, the left portion of the AFS is over the high spot on the left, and a bit more movement and the right portion of the AFS will start dropping into the low void. Effectively, this is still cutting material out of the low, keeping it low.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203028.jpg
Looking at the next size up, a 36" AFS....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203019.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203020.jpg
Here we can see this one does a much better job of spanning the high spots and staying up on top, for a more effective job of knocking down the highs and leaving the low in the center alone...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203029.jpg
After a few horizontal passes at slight angles, like so with the 36".......
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203018.jpg
We follow up with some vertical passes at slight angles with the 27".... all rods removed to better follow the contour. Then alternate back to the 36 and another horizontal session..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203030.jpg
Nice work Robert! Are you seeing a light at the end of the tunnel now? :LOL: The motorcycle turned out awesome! That's a bad deal about the halo! Like you said though, at least you found it. That would be a bad deal to find it after it's painted.
We can see the light, but it's still a bit dim! :LOL:
thanks for the posting I like being educated on this stuff, thanks again !
YEP! What he said!!
Thanks fellas!
Well there has been a slight break in the updates, as I've been in Okinawa for about a month. Not to fear, Kyle has been plugging away on the wagon, it even has a floor in it, as you can see here...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203051.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203053.jpg
He did get a quite a bit of blocking done while I was gone....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203045.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203059.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203060.jpg
And did get some wet sanding done on a few of the interior trim pieces. Today he started on the rear floor, part of the problem with welding a flat plate is that it doesn't stay flat. The plug welds to secure the floor to the bracing beneath caused some shrinking, which resulted in the metal between bulging outward, some up, some down. Looks about like the Atlantic on a calm day.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203054.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203056.jpg
Today, as I was going to be wet sanding, he was going to try some torch shrinking. To better make this a one person job with minimal risk of open flame, we thought to give the "electric" torch a go.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203063.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203061.jpg
The plastic dust pan served as a tray to hold the wet rag, keeping it in closer proximity to where it was needed and attempt to limit the amount of water elsewhere. The results showed quite an improvement, and it's in need of some bumping at this point..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203064.jpg
But alas, the gas tank is in the way, so we will likely get the body back on the rotisserie here soon in an effort to get the remaining prep prior to paint completed.
Meanwhile, I was wet sanding and couldn't find the squeegee, so a trip to the local Ace Hardware at lunch, and we had a replacement. Works well, and no metal hardware on this new one to add any scratches....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203067.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203068.jpg
Exterior of the hood is about done...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203069.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203070.jpg
I've received some PM's on occasion asking about fixing oil cans on sheet metal, so I thought I'd share some ideas....
I've seen on far too many automotive forums that any request for help dealing with an oil can invariably generates a response to pick up the shrinking disc, despite no detailed information given besides "I have an oil can"
Before I suggest to someone how to fix an oil can, it is best to find out what kind of oil can you are dealing with, first and foremost. I consider there are two kinds, a tight oil can and a loose oil can, each will require a different method of repair.
Tight oil can:
This is almost exclusively caused by body damage, whether a dent, glancing crease, or media blast damage, and is especially noted by displaced metal that will oil can when considerable pressure is applied, and may or may not forcibly spring back. When the body damage occurs, it stretches the panel throughout the dent or crease. A typical dent, whether straight in or a glancing blow, will have direct and indirect damage. The direct damage goes inward, stretching the panel as it goes. The indirect damage, is a much lesser amount of springback, compounded by the internal stretch pushing outward circumferentially, and you will see an outward bulge around the perimeter of the dent/damage. Although the initial inclination may be to shrink this outward bulge, for the most part this adjacent area is relatively damage free, it is mainly being spread outward by the stretch forcing outward. Shrinking the center damage will start the process of relieving the stresses pushing outward, relaxing some of the bulge surrounding the dent. After a bit of shrinking, using the shot bag against the outside of the crease/dent and some light taps with a flat body hammer or slapper from the inside will help to start manipulating the crease/dent back into it's original place. I would add that too much shrinking all at once may give you the loose oil can, so profile templates are highly recommended as they work well to let you see how the panel is reacting so you don't go too far too quick.
Tight oil can, part two:
Where some tight oil cans from dents may be challenging to determine where to start your shrinking (if it doesn't have an obvious sharp crease to show where to work from) the following process will normally find the area that needs shrinking.... Cycle the oil can in and out a couple times in order to find the outer perimeter. If it helps to mark it with some painters tape, a sharpie, so be it, use whatever works. Now using your thumb from one hand apply slight pressure on a point on this perimeter. Use the other hand to cycle the oil can again, using the same pressure as before. Keep moving your pressure point around the perimeter and cycle the oil can for each spot until you get to a point on the perimeter where the pressure will keep the oil can from cycling, it locks it from moving. This should identify your "sweet spot" that needs shrinking, and there may be more than one sweet spot
Loose oil can:
This is typically caused by welding, over-eager torch shrinking, or shrinking something when you should have stretched, (or fatigue over the many years that has caused a larger panel/hood to settle). Any panel will shrink from heat, causing the crown to draw in from the surrounding area. This is especially noted by a loose, easily flopped back and forth oil can. This is fixed by stretching, typically in the area of the weld and HAZ.
Loose oil can part two:
In some cases we'll see that a dent (or tight oil can) has actually caused a loose oil can in the outer reaches in the adjacent area. The direct force (dent) may have caused displacement of the inherent stresses of the panel (crown) such that it pulled at the adjacent metal elsewhere, resulting in a loose oil can outside the area of the dent. Here the loose oil can should be left alone and focus on removing the stretched area (dent) that moved the panel. Once the dent is removed, this action alone should correct the loose oil can in the adjacent area.
Nice work and thanks for the info and tips!
What great posts,I always learn something from them!
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
And people wonder why good paint jobs cost so much.
Labor,labor, labor!
Rich
Looks good keep up the good work!
Thanks guys!
The last time we removed the car from the frame we used two engine hoists, which proved to be a bit cumbersome and a pain to get the frame rolled out. So I thought to try something different, this time an engine hoist at the front, and a winch in the back. Needing an anchor point for the winch, I welded this up last night to span two of the shop's trusses from overhead....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203071.jpg
Rear lift eyes use the tailgate hinge nut plates...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203073.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203074.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203075.jpg
Front lifting eyes bolt to the hinge mounts on the firewall...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203076.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203077.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203078.jpg
We have lift-off!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203080.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203081.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203082.jpg
The frame has a bit of welds left to do and we can clean it up and get it to the powder coaters...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203083.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203089.jpg
Dana helping out tonight...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203084.jpg
One way to clean it out...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203085.jpg
Here's the framework added to support the fuel tank and rear floor..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203086.jpg
This shows how nice access is for prepping, works equally well in painting..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203087.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203088.jpg
Wow your attention to detail just never stops, excellent work
Thanks!
Todays progress, we've had to move the frame a couple times and it becomes a chore to steer, so a 1" bolt was modified with a home made steering wheel. Works well, good thing there's no weight on the front end!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203089.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203105.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203106.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203108.jpg
....and Kyle's been busy getting the bare metal prepped for epoxy..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203109.jpg
Picked up some stump blanks last night to have some extra stations for the upcoming metalshaping class...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203090.jpg
This afternoon, Debarking with a draw knife...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203095.jpg
Kyle took over as I used the chain saw to cut some to length...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203096.jpg
This one is about all the JD bucket could stand..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203101.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203102.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203103.jpg
....and some Talstar to take care of any remaining ant domiciles.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203104.jpg
That's cool, I was given a 150lbs. cast iron anvil with steel plating from my cousin, and did the same thing, figured how tall to cut the stump wood to get the perfect hammer height for my anvil. Don't use it nearly as much as you, but when I need it it is invaluable. Here is a picture of it.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psy6rb3vwt.jpg
Nice Anvil!
We're checking this week with a local machine shop to see if we can get the body media blasted... should be a much quicker prep for the epoxy..
In the meantime, the downside to plug welds and mig welds.... cleaning up all those welds..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203132.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203133.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203134.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203135.jpg
Kyle working on more welds..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203136.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203138.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203139.jpg
...and to get ready for the class next week, we put all the 55 parts away in the paint booth...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203140.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203141.jpg
Getting ready for the metal shaping class at the shop this week, picked up Peter today from the airport.
Last night Kyle and I made a pedestal for some home-made stake anvils using a couple 45 lb dumbbells and some pipe/tubing, tonight made the round-head anvil and another with a holder for press brake dies....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203142.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203143.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203144.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203145.jpg
.....and stopped by the upholstery shop this morning to get another shot bag stitched up...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203147.jpg
Counting the hours!
A few of the projects showed up this evening for the class, more to come tomorrow....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203148.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203149.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203152.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203158.jpg
One of the attendees brought a CP hammer for us to use...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203159.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203157.jpg
I'm going to have to get Peter here more often, forces me to clean up the place!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203151.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203154.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203153.jpg
Ooohh, I like the possibilities presented by the sheet copper, plus all those sheet metal forming gizmos!
Here are some of the highlights of today's class....
Peter shows how to prepare a stump for shrinking....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203164.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203167.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203168.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203169.jpg
Discussing weld location in panel forming....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203170.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203172.jpg
Using magnets to hold a paper pattern for layout....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203177.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203180.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203181.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203183.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203185.jpg
Wheeling, tuck shrinking and annealing aluminum sheet...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203190.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203192.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203196.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203197.jpg
Capturing the tuck and shrinking on aluminum sheet
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203201.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203202.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203203.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203204.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203205.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203206.jpg
Blocking and wheeling our 19 gauge steel fender panel...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203208.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203209.jpg
Forming the rear corner for a Model A..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203222.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203226.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203231.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203232.jpg
Blocking on the sand bags and shrinking on the stump....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203224.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203225.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203229.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203223.jpg
Wheeling....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203230.jpg
Sorry I missed it!
Cool metal working /shaping class. Thanks for sharing, and Man does your shop look clean!
The shop looks great! I'm sure the class was great! Those pieces turned out awesome!
It's great your helping pass on these skills!
Rich
Thanks for checking in guys. Here's some of today's class projects.
The start of a scooter fender...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203264.jpg
Test fit of a fender panel...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203267.jpg
Copper work, trash can taking shape...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203235.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203237.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203265.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203272.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203277.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203285.jpg
Paper pattern on a roadster quarter panel....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203234.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203240.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203246.jpg
Using the blocking hammer to pre-stretch
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203253.jpg
Making a pattern for the dies
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203257.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203260.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203261.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203263.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203273.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203274.jpg
Making a pattern of luan board for a divider offset in trimming the top edge..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203286.jpg
What happens when a metal shaper gets around wood products...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203287.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203288.jpg
Trimming and filing up the top edge....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203293.jpg
On to the Lennox....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203300.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203311.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203312.jpg
Project updates for todays class:
Wiring top edge of the copper trash can..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203314.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203315.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203316.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203329.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203331.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203346.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203327.jpg
Roadster quarter, making dies for the upper bead detail....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203317.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203318.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203319.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203320.jpg
Sharpening the crease
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203324.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203338.jpg
A bit of shrinking....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203360.jpg
Test fit...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203366.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203384.jpg
Marking for trimming the wheel opening...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203406.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203408.jpg
Inside radius backstop
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203417.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203418.jpg
Scooter fender...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203328.jpg
Trimming...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203395.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203399.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203402.jpg
Prepping for Sport Coupe door skin removal
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203410.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203412.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203416.jpg
We took a short break for a Maryland treat...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203419.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203421.jpg
of course, using only the correct utensils....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203423.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203424.jpg
Blocking the top section of the roadster quarter.....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203428.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203437.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%203438.jpg
Like the crab "claw hammer" shot! Man you guys know how to have fun, metal working and a crab feed lunch with beer!
Was it the crab whom embossed the bunnies?
Yes, up until the break.... ;)
Today Peter demonstrated lead loading aluminum...
https://youtu.be/MSfK9XhnLeM