Cut the bottom off a yeti coozie and you're in business.
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Cut the bottom off a yeti coozie and you're in business.
I want to know what JB thought it meant before shown..................................then again...............maybe not.:rolleyes:
Nice work and I can relate to everything is a tool. I have to do that a lot. :LOL:
I thought about getting a few of these to try out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sebring-Ave...RaHut6&vxp=mtr
Thank you Mr Ross sir.
You are a scholar and a gentleman.
As for Uncle Bob and Roger...you only pick on me 'cos I'm a poor defenceless little fella.
If I was a big fella you wouldn't pick on me like that.
(It was like being savaged by two budgies.)
:CRY: :CRY: :)
(Actually, before being shown, I was thinking more along the lines of a furshlugginer for a portrazeby.)
I don't think I'd have room enough to hide all the extras on those cup holders... :LOL:
Doesn't look like we did much this weekend, but we got the wheel wells, floor pans, and cross members scuffed up this weekend. Then applied two coats of SPI epoxy primer to address the bare spots, so now we're ready for Line-X..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qv...6=w477-h358-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yP...h=w477-h358-no
That looks so nice! Will the people applying the line-x have to scuff it again, or does the SPI have a large window that you can top coat it?
7 days at 70 degrees
I advised them of the 7 day window, but I think they will be scuffing it out of habit...
Made a new tool Tuesday night, this is inspired by the bench mount shear that you saw at our last metal shaping class at the shop, made by Charlie Cerutti. This mimics the Beverly Shear on a much smaller scale, and for those who have arthritis issues and find difficulty in the squeezing process of using hand snips, this could prove invaluable.
This was made using two (right and left hand cut) pair of 90* Midwest shears. First step is to remove handle covers, a utility knife makes short work of it.. Then the handle toward the jaws is trimmed off, as shown in the picture. A one inch diameter tube is used as the pull handle, welded onto the remaining handle of the shears. 5/8 round stick is used for the cross piece and upright supports, and an angle provides the base for clamping (for portability) or screwing to the front edge of your workbench.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S4...v=w718-h956-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q9...B=w718-h956-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7p...T=w718-h956-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aR...X=w718-h956-no
Here shown fully assembled:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdaX4GJ-PHI
.....and here in operation...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2oCHf_lm9M
The intent here is not to increase capacity by adding more leverage, I would still recommend adhering to manufacturer's recommendations. This is merely another tool that may make the job easier..
That's a very cool, innovative approach! I was wondering about attachment, but the second video showing it in use shows the big C clamp securing it to the bench, so it's not in the way when not needed. Another bonus! Nice job, and thanks!!
Very nice and thanks for sharing that with us!
We were blocking out the wagon's roof today, and had a few low spots to bump upwards. To locate the lows on the inside, I thought to use one of our rare earth magnets in the center of the low, and use the body hammer on the bottom side of the roof to pinpoint the magnetic pull. These are 65 lb pull magnets that we use for our paper patterns. By a stroke of luck (blind squirrel finds acorn) we noticed in scuffing the inside of the roof that the magnet location readily appeared, for a more accurate locating method.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ubq89aPMJjY
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That's pretty neat, there's so much that I would do different on my 53 if I would have seen this build first.
Scatter some iron filings on top, you'll see the magnet exactly.
Had a couple questions on what the heck I'm showing in the video.. Haha... so let's clarify..
We were blocking out the primer on the roof and came across a few low spots. These were low enough to be seen in the paint if left alone, and yet mixing and sanding any filler "repair" would have taken longer than some simple bumping of the low area.
Since I don't have a Bullseye Pick, we thought to use some gentle hammering with a crowned body hammer beneath into a small shot bag on the top (outside) of the roof. We have some 65 lb pull rare earth magnets that we typically use for our paper patterns, and this showed to have enough strength to pull through the roof skin. So we placed the magnet in the center of the low area, and in order to locate on the underside, would skim across the roof from beneath with the hammer face to see where the pull was strongest. The location was then marked underneath with a sharpie, magnet removed and replaced with the shot bag, and the area was tapped into the shot bag until blocking showed the area where it should be.
On one of these "marking with a sharpie" efforts, there was a slight bit of dust on the bottom side of the roof, so I gave it a wipe with my hand to displace the dust and instantly saw the outer circle of the magnet. This was much more accurate than using the magnetic pull test, so we changed to this, and the metal bumping effort worked well. We surmise that this "dust" that clings to the magnetic field is likely sanding residue from the primer, or sanding residue from dressing welds inside the car, or both. In any case, it worked well to help transpose the low spot locations to the bottom side for more accurate hammering.
That is a very cool and time saving trick!
Spent last week in Rock Hill SC for a metalshaping workshop. My project was going to be making a section of drip rail to match a section cut from a vehicle.. I was going to use the bead roller but any attempt showed distortion was difficult to control. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rh...=w1154-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rJ...w=w768-h576-no
After looking at some of the home made Pullmax dies others had brought, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UJ...P=w649-h866-no
Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r3...-=w649-h866-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FW...4=w649-h866-no
Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gk...F=w649-h866-no
Shown here with the original cross-section piece...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...V=w649-h866-no
Our first task tonight was to modify die set #2 from last night so it would also tighten up the reverse joggle.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/j2...g=w649-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ye...=w1154-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fs...t=w649-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YC...9=w649-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yu...F=w649-h865-no
Next, Die set #3 for adding the remaining folds. A partial bend is done in the magnetic brake, and then the die set forms them more accurately.
Before:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CR...7=w649-h865-no
After....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mA...N=w649-h865-no
Comparison:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Oe...=w1154-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m2...s=w649-h865-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vy...v=w649-h865-no
I like this method much better, looks to be more easily repeatable with better consistency.
Have you ever considered making a cabinet (I'm picturing a mail sorting rack) to hold your custom dies? You could tack cross section of the pattern the dies make on the cubby.
I would HAVE to find some means of storing the dies else I would absolutely forget what they did.
That is absolutely awesome! You are really good at making those dies too!
Very clever work, I admire your patience to make things right, wish I had that much.
UM... Robert. WOW! Once again your work blows me away.
Well, we have the new engine dropped in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AC...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n9...S=w717-h955-no
....and she decided on fuel injection over the 770 CFM Holley (still new in the box). Of course this meant and O2 sensor bung on an already finished H-pipe. The bung that came with the FI Tech kit matched well to the outside radius of the exhaust pipe, but was rectangular in shape, and included a gasket for a "clamp installation"... As we aren't having any of that nonsense, the bung found it's way into the lathe, where a round outer perimeter will serve better for our TIG welded installation..
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/47...X=w717-h955-no
And after some touch up at the powder coaters....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yZ...f=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DP...J=w717-h955-no
Next, our arm rest enclosures for the rear seat needed a base for the padded arm rests. So Jake used the Go Kart slick to add some radius to 14 gauge cold rolled steel in order to match the enclosure...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Up...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wj...=w1274-h955-no
.....and trimmed to fit....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u2...=w1274-h955-no
These will be held in place with Mopar style door panel retainers, so we can still have ready access for any future maintenance on window mechanisms.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Th...c=w717-h955-no
Nice work as always.
I agree, as always nice work and thanks for the sharing of pics / techniques.
Although I question the really short steering wheel arrangement! *-)
That looks so nice. The Fitech was probably a good decision for her I'd say. Nice fix on the bung.
Progress on the wagon...
Mike got the new fuel tank all prepped with the fuel pump...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H5...Y=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jl...I=w717-h955-no
Tank mocked up so we can do test fit/fabrication of the filler neck down to the tank...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TL...j=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0l...E=w717-h955-no
An elbow will be needed to join these two together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wr...-=w717-h955-no
The local NAPA store had some smooth elbow exhaust pipe that we used to fabricate the complete filler neck, all the pieces were TIG welded together, and Dana powder coated the assy black for us.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4D...=w1274-h955-no
Bracket we fabricated for bolting to the floor flange.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2D...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mu...c=w717-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aS...S=w717-h955-no
Next, the drip rail area was scuffed well and the car inverted so we can seal the bottom of the drip rail to the top of the quarter area. This is using the self leveling sealer, so we needed to counter the gravity effect.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6g...=w1274-h955-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lb...=w1274-h955-no
Next time we'll get the top side done..
Seeing the car flipped: my first thought is to install the headliner. Undoubtedly too much else needs to be done yet. Pity, it looks like it would make for a convenient, easy install.
Very nice work on that fill tube! Man that rotisserie looks so nice to have.
We found a flat spot in the drip rail that needed to match the rest, found a suitable worn jaw pair of Vise grips that was ripe for modification.
https://youtu.be/RgMLgJQ9Uqw
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What you don't have you have to make. I have a BIG drawer full of special vice grips and weird wrenches
Your collection would be fun to take a look at!
Very nice! Do you mark or label these when you make them to help identify them for future use? Or do you just remember what each was used for?
I have a good collection of the modified ones going, so far no labels. Keeps people guessing!