At least there weren't any more surprises under it! It's looking great!
Printable View
At least there weren't any more surprises under it! It's looking great!
Thanks!
OK, it's been a while since I've TIG welded, and got a little too much heat near the edge. Blew a nice hole, so used one of the practice pieces to cut out a patch..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204573.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204574.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204576.jpg
.....and I got a little heavy footed on the other end as well...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204577.jpg
Trimming for the patch's patch.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204578.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204581.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204582.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204584.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204585.jpg
The final pieces to weld...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204586.jpg
Weld dressed and factory relief added...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204588.jpg
A few more welds to dress and this will be done...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204589.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204590.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204591.jpg
I like how you even tell your mistakes. Some people just leave all them out. Your tig welding still beats mine. I haven't done it in years. Someday I'll pick up a tig rig and do it again. :LOL:
Thanks for the comments guys. Personally I find you learn better from your mistakes, why not share them for others to learn as well... :p
Cowl repair all complete...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204592.jpg
One more thin spot from the media blasting where we had removed the leaded seam...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204593.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204594.jpg
Test fitting the patch for proper contour..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204596.jpg
TIG welded in place...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204597.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204602.jpg
Started off with some SPI epoxy on the underside...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204599.jpg
....and then the firewall
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204601.jpg
.....as well as the new glove box door skin...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204600.jpg
The entire interior was primed by standing through the window openings...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204604.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204605.jpg
Then the outside was tackled...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204606.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204607.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204608.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204609.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204610.jpg
That looks awesome! I'm sure that was a chore trying to not touch anything during the spraying process.
Had to suck it in stepping through the windshield opening! :LOL:
Wow better than new off the assembly line
No, still have some metal bumping and straightening to do...
Glove box door work tonight....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204603.jpg
Well the epoxy has cured for about three days, time to put the glove box back together... The adjacent areas are scuffed for some official door skin adhesive..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204611.jpg
....in the form of some leftover primer from this weekend..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204612.jpg
Good thing this gets covered up...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204613.jpg
Using the door skin hammer on the leather shot bag, the ends are folded first...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204616.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204617.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204618.jpg
and then the bottom flange...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204619.jpg
All together...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204620.jpg
Every time I look at your work I'm just WOW'ED !!!!!!! Very nice !
Thanks!
Well Cody posted up some pics today of the muffler "wrap" so I thought I'd add them here as a follow up for those that saw the post of us punching the stainless.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204410.jpg
He's using stainless exhaust front to back, with two transverse mounted mufflers behind the rear axle. Since they are tucked up inside the frame rails, a bit of air flow will be provided by the louvers..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...fflerWrap1.jpg
Note the "rolled" edge on the exhaust tail pipes. Cody says he isn't a fan of unfinished edges, and this car is loaded with such detail from one end to the other.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...fflerWrap2.jpg
Installed, the louvers facing the front should give nice air flow.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...fflerWrap3.jpg
We've got another detail to work on with Cody, and it's been a nice change of pace to set the rusty metal aside and help out on his build with the louvers we've done. Thanks for the challenge!
very cool detail thousand won't know but we will! :)
UM... Now we need to see the rest of Cody's work. More pics please!?!?!?!
Not necessarily in order......
1935 Chevy By Cody Walls Slideshow| Photobucket
Crikey!
That's impressive!
Bloody gorgeous!
I'm struggling for superlatives here!
Thanks for posting that.
Times two! What he said.. WOW - thats Nice..
I'm glad I asked for pics!! LOL..
Tell Cody well done! ANd the club says HELLO!
Great work on the glove box door. Cody does some amazing work too! That is one fine coupe!
It sure is!
Got a "requirement" for some bead detail work and don't need the panels losing any of their shape. The bead roller does a nice job, but the forming process is more of a relocation of the metal from elsewhere, which would cause a panel to possibly lose some crown.
The Lennox (Pullmax) as a reciprocating machine does a better job of stretching the metal as the bead is formed, so there is less issue of losing panel crown.
Here we're making the female die in the South Bend milling machine.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204662.jpg
Ball end milling bit clamped in the chuck, square stock clamped in the Aloris tool holder..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204664.jpg
The ends of the tooling was also turned in the lathe to give a nice round feature that will work better for use with a guide.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204665.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204667.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204666.jpg
Test run...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204668.jpg
Nice crisp lines, the "chatter" should be cleaned up if I can get the feed speed more consistent. The small diameter of the upper die's "punch" provides the needed stretch, with the downside being the marking from too fast of a feed speed. Making the upper die in more of an oval shape will eliminate most of the marking, but it won't stretch as well.. To keep from losing panel crown, stretch is our preference here..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204669.jpg
This shows how well the die provides stretch, when you can add a bead in the middle of a panel....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204672.jpg
......and there's no distortion on the ends of the bead on an otherwise flat panel..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204674.jpg
Cody travelled down today from Milton DE so we could add some bead detail surrounding the louvers on the hood sides.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204693.jpg
He used a paper pattern to copy the louver layout from the hood sides, and then added the offset for the bead location.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204694.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204695.jpg
While he was doing that Kyle and I added the rounded bead detail to the louver panels for the Wheeling Machine, here using a fancy clamp-on guide...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204690.jpg
Beaded....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204691.jpg
Motion picture of same..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcPpwUF5yvI
Excess flange is trimmed to the bead edge...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204692.jpg
This should give a more finished edge when attached to the cast legs...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g/IMG_1400.jpg
Once Cody was done with the layout and transferred it to some 1/2" thick MDF, it was cut out on the fancy vice jigsaw...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204696.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204653.jpg
The corners were dressed with a 1-1/2" diameter drum sander and all the other edges filed to remove any imperfections that may alter the course of the beading dies. Then a sample of 18 gauge was clamped and run through the dies to insure the corners wanted to play nicely... The dies in the Lennox were changed to the flat upper for a flatter bead profile.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204686.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204697.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204699.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204700.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204701.jpg
With that looking good, the MDF guide was located on the hood side, clamped temporarily with some vise grips, and drilled for 8-32 machine screws to secure it in place..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204703.jpg
Cody positions the IPhone for the video, using the patent pending Vise Grip phone clamp.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204704.jpg
Completed panels...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204706.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204707.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204708.jpg
Video of the process....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zicnFG7KRLc
One pass was made most of the way through to give a good amount of stretch, and a second pass a slight bit more to add some definition..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204709.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204710.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204711.jpg
I will have to admit I, didn't "get it".... I couldn't imagine a bead surrounding the louvers.
( or how it would be accomplished )
But it all came together and I must admit it looks very, very nice!
As always, thanks to you and the crew for sharing it all with us.
That is really cool and innovative! Thanks for sharing that. I really like the look of the bead around the louvers!
Thanks guys! Cody got one of the hood sides hung on the car today to check out the new look. I definitely think the bead detail gives the louvers a better, more refined look.. Good call Cody.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...vyHoodBead.jpg
Well after block sanding the latest coat of epoxy....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204722.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204743.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204745.jpg
We had a local car show we could attend, but didn't know whether to take the body or the frame...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204250.jpg
I didn't think the rotisserie would fit in my 16' trailer for some reason, but another measurement proved otherwise. Since it showed more of our metal fabrication, we opted for the body.. All loaded up, height limitations on the ceiling do require inverted travel...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...5/IMG_1562.jpg
At the show with the "trailer queen"
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...5/IMG_1563.jpg
Perhaps you should have put arrows on the car pointing to each detail of masterful metal work you've done on this car so the observer could have some idea of your amazing skills and perfectionism!! Of course, this thread is a metal-working education in itself!
Thanks for your continued posts, Robert!
YES! I'll echo what R2 said.. Skill and Perfectionism = Amazing Result.
it looks like it might have latent "bat-mobile" tendencies hanging upside down in that trailer....:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Thanks for the comments guys. We had quite a few conversations over the work done on the wagon, looked at other's rides for onsite suggestions, a good time overall.
Today was more blocking on the 55, and moving forward to get it ready for the Linex that will go on the bottom side. We need to get seat brackets complete and welded into the floor, finish epoxy prime on cavities (rocker and inner quarter), install wheel houses, etc. Yesterday was a road trip to get a paint sample and other paint supplies. here's the proposed color for above the quarter...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204771.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204772.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204773.jpg
With the H/K Organic Green Kandy basecoat on the quarters down. To better get a feel for the test sprayout of the Kandy, a panel was made to simulate the top of the quarter, so we can better see the effects in the sunlight...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204782.jpg
Next, epoxy in the cavities. I had looked at cavity spraying wands and the like, and did not care for what was available. So lets get basic, after all it is unseen when complete..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204774.jpg
This area doesn't have to be pretty, so picked up this goodie at the local hardware store..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204775.jpg
.....which should get enough on the inner quarter to seal things up..
For the rocker, needed a bit more reach, both to scuff things up and roll on some paint. Here's the new multi-tool, with a 4' lift kit.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204776.jpg
Scuffing attachment
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204777.jpg
Target area..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204778.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204779.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204781.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204780.jpg
These dividers sit above the wheelwells inside the top of the quarter, and a bottom flange serves as a welding anchor for the top of the wheelwell. If they both had a bottom flange..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204783.jpg
On top of those was a nice foam seal, which also served to trap water and cause one of our pits in the original quarter that we removed.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204784.jpg
So the thought is to replace these with new ones made of 16 gauge, using a bulb seal at the top for less water absorption/retention...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204786.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204787.jpg
With these now removed, you can see the still bare 1955 sheet metal that we'll also get covered with epoxy prior to installing the new brackets..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204785.jpg
After all this fun, we loaded up one of the Biederman fenders and took it over to Saufley Sandblasting to get a quote on those. We'll get all the parts blasted individually, then sealed in epoxy primer, then assembled. After assembly, one more dose of Epoxy and they're off to the painter..
More awesome work. Your tools to get in the quarter should work very nicely.
Working today on fitting up the wheel wells. The front half is re-popped and uses the same part as the sedans, the rear part is not available. Fitting the front, notice the right lower corner (as shown) tapers up with less overlap for plug/spot welding.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204793.jpg
The rear section is NOT available in reproduction, and the notch you see there is for routing the fuel fill on a wagon tank. We've switched to a sedan tank to make room for dual exhaust, and given the widened wheel tubs and tires being used, no need in leaving such a gaping hole. So new parts it is.. The lower flap I'm holding is a separate piece that is spot welded on. In an effort to minimize moisture traps/rust generators in the future, we'll make this in one piece.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204794.jpg
To fix our front repop, a piece of 18 gauge is TIG welded to give us a square corner...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204804.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204815.jpg
To make the new piece for the rear, we'll need a method to add beads that cross each other. This will entail a small table to use on the Lennox, an upper punch, and two pieces of matched MDF. Slots will be cut into the MDF, the top used as a guide for the punch, the bottom acts as our bottom die as it "rests" on the table..
The table will be supported in the lower tool holder using a 3/4 shank. The end is turned down to 1/2" to mate into a 1/2" hole in the 4 x 12 table, which is then plug welded.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204788.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204789.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204790.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204791.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204792.jpg
For an upper punch, we'll use some 3/4 oil hardening 4140, making it less pointed than the original just in case we want to use it for something besides the 55.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204801.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204802.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204812.jpg
For a bead guide we first need to get a good template of the inside of the quarter. The adjustable spline comes in handy...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204798.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204799.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204800.jpg
MDF is screwed together and then the edge profile cut..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204803.jpg
Cutting our bead pattern..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204810.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204811.jpg
The offset of the original for the quarter seal is added using a tipping die in the Lennox, slight modification on the backstop for the correct width..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204805.jpg
New matches the repop....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204807.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204808.jpg
This seal will be used against the inside of the quarter..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204822.jpg
Running a test pattern... The table height is adjusted to set the punch depth...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204813.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204814.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204816.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204817.jpg
All clamped up, ready to go. Kyle has already left for the day so we'll finish up next time..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204820.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204821.jpg
I know we always say thank you for stopping to get pictures for us, and it really must slow down your productivity!
But, from one of the "students"... Thank You! I really do appreciate the education and it's enjoyable watching a master work.
Tell Kyle the "class" says Hi... lol..
Thanks!
Made our table slightly larger to better hold the panel level for punch depth consistency..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204823.jpg
More holes for screws added to keep things snug
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204824.jpg
A few holes to fill, we'll get the other side done and weld them all in one sitting.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204828.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204825.jpg
Motion picture version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCIv27b4dPs
.
Last night we used the poster board template to check the fit of our pattern to the passenger side. Only a slight shave in the middle for a good snug fit. Then we test fit the repop front section of wheel well, which was horrendous. if we were to trim it to fit there wouldn't be enough step flange left over for the seal. So, Kyle added a 1/2" strip of 18 gauge cold rolled to the outside so we will have enough to trim for a proper fit. Still needs to add that corner on this side as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNiSM9Oyp2s
While he was welding away, I trimmed the second panel for the passenger rear wheel well, used the Lennox with the tipping die to add the step flange for the seal, and got it prepped for the bead detail work, which we'll get to on Saturday.
I wish I could tig as fast as Kyle! LOL...
Me too. He just runs circles around me.. :LOL:
More great work you 2!
Thanks Ryan!
Here's a test fit of the reproduction wheel well for the 55, this is the front section. Note the poor fit to the rear side of the quarter panel. I don't know if these are an EXACT reproduction of OEM, but have heard others having similar "gaping hole" issues with their original cars.
This is the driver's side:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204832.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204833.jpg
video version....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiSaQXkkowc
This is the passenger side we modified Thursday, adding a 1/2" filler strip and then trimming to fit to the quarter panel....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204831.jpg
.......and shown here with seal in place...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204835.jpg
Here Kyle is adding the 1/2" filler strip to the driver's side reproduction wheel well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=penIygidVUc
With the rear section not available in reproduction (blessing in disguise), here is the final layout and trim of our version..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204836.jpg
Flanges are tipped using the Fasti swaging machine..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204837.jpg
Test fit of the driver's side wheel wells. The front reproduction piece has the filler strip added but still needs trimming, the rear section is a much better fit than what came out from the factory..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204838.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204839.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204840.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204844.jpg
Video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BvNqdKQf3U
Once the front section has been trimmed for proper fit, we will butt weld the front and rear section together to eliminate another overlap rust trap.
More great work and attention to detail no one will see. But, that will help keep that car around for another 100 years or more!
Haha, so true. Thanks Ryan.
Finishing up on our drivers side wheel well today. The front "modified" reproduction is trimmed and fitted. A light is put behind it to check for gaps...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204848.jpg
The baffle that sits above the wheel well is made differently as well, this time using a piece of 16 ga cold rolled steel, and trimmed to fill the void. We left a slight gap that we plan on sealing with seam sealer.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204851.jpg
Shown here with bulb seal against the quarter....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204850.jpg
The trouble with the factory version of sealing above the baffle is that the expanding foam encapsulates the surrounding area, to include surrounding the slot for trim hardware. It is here that water intrudes, and is held against the quarter causing rust.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204853.jpg
Our version will leave this hole unobstructed so that any water intrusion that may occur will pass on through.
Now to fill in our screw holes that held together the "MDF Sandwich" that we used for beading the panel. A piece of 1/4" thick X 1" copper flat bar is used as a backer, I find it leaves the back side of the weld much cleaner than using flattened copper pipe.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204855.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204856.jpg
Video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2k5_RqRnzc
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204857.jpg
With the front and rear sections having been fitted and trimmed for a butt weld, next we tack the panels together with the TIG..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204858.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204859.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204860.jpg
Now we have a one piece wheel well, no overlap joints to trap moisture and start rust, as the originals had done.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204861.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204862.jpg
One piece wheel well test fitted using the bulb seal....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViIPhYNsEb0
Moving on to the passenger side, both front and back are trimmed and test fitted. Some minor tweaks and we will be ready to trim for a butt weld and TIG these together next time..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204863.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%204864.jpg
Thanks Robert for the 1/4" copper backer tip. I've been using just any old piece of copper, usually just a thin piece of scrap lying around.
Jack.