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I have Flowmaster 50 Series on my '31 and while letting it run and moving it a couple of days ago, the drone almost made me pull them immediately - and probably will eventually and just run some turbos {or maybe even 22" Smithy's:D and really po the cop across the street}Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
IC2, you're my type of guy. I've been known to uncork the headers on the Mustang just to po a certain cop in the neighborhood. :LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Bluestang.....I wish it was running lean....that would be a fairly easy fix....but instead its running like it should....and sputtering noxious fumes (I love that stuff) out the tail. They have this thing set up for 12 degrees advance....I still have to check for total time. I really have no idea what is in the motor. I'll be investigating soon. They said it had Dart iron heads but they look more like late model 350 heads.
Falconvan....I like the big and littles too....except for the mess they left me to clean up on bracing the frame. They cut a huge amount of the width of the frame (left 1/2") and boxed the remaining part....to stuff the big tires in the hole. And then drove it like this. I am really suprised the frame didnt colapse. Problem solved though.....I've been bracing and placing mitered pieces most of the weekend.
IC2/NTF2Day.....:LOL::LOL: We just watched "Lakeview Terrace". You guys are just itchin to strike a nerve....arent you. :LOL::LOL:
I got the saftey issue covered on the fuel line routing at the front.....hard line up to filter with section of hose stretched over tubing closest to headers....now several inches away from header. Thanks for the heads up!
Another thing that bothers me......with the aftermarket dropped spindles and aftermarket dropped springs......at the rear he has less than 2 inches of compression travel before it bottoms on the shock mount. Makes for an intersting ride over a chug hole. I'll probably add at lease a 1 inch steel coil spring spacer....or heaver lowered springs (cause he really like how low it is).
Man these things are a bugger trying to get the rear tires off when theyre this low. Takes me back to my 69 Pro street with the 33X21.50's. Have to jack the rear of body in the sky...placing jack stand under rear....all the while unhooking shock mount at top just to get barely enough clearance to remove the tires. Doable though.
Its all fun. And Dustin is getting a quick course in "Do it Yourself 101". I'm tickled with his interest.
Dave G
Neat project.... and there's a lot of worse things then an old Elky that a kid his age could show interest in.... Heck, he could end up really unique for his age group and actually have some common sense, mechanical skills, and problem solving ability!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
I got the frame welded up on my little project last weekend and is lookin good so far. I will post more pics when I get the brackets all welded on and the suspension hung. (check my pics)
Yeah. I'm trying to get his mind off the girls! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I doubt it will work out....but so far he's ditched the girl thats caught his interest for the last 6 months.....in favor of a Jegs/Summit catalog. :LOL:
** No offense to the ladies **
Just trying to give him something to keep his interest in keeping his grades up. No grade.....no car.
Dave G
Keep going.....I'm proud your getting to do this. Looks like your using some of my old methods. 2X4 make for a good idea builder....Quote:
Originally Posted by 1940 tipster
Dave G
Was a warm Sunday pop the garage doors up and did something for a change . Skim coat the patch on bottom of fender . The reinforcement panel behind the headlight bucket needed a patch .I didn't finish it to well since its hidden just didn't want any rust there . The hood and the new door skin need a little work and that's all that is left ,the outside is finished and everything is ready for color . I'll shoot the floors and passenger compartment then the trunk area and get it all cut in . Had it 11 years and have about 2 1/2 of actually working on it in getting it this far . It has been a restore and not a cover up .
Have I ever mentioned I hate doing plastic work I am to slow and keep taking it off to put it on one more time LOL.
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Thanks man, I am trying to finish it before I go to school at the end of june, my fingers are crossed. I do have almost all the parts and brackets to finish up the frame. I still need some stuff like brake lines and fuel tank, but most of the hard work is going to get the body in driveable shape. LoL i tore the back seat out of a 96 ford conversion van, the one that lays into a bed. I want to use the frame from that seat along with the motor that moves it back and forth, so I have power seats but the driveshaft might hit :( . "only time will tell."Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
She started her life out as a ' Ford 2 door sedan in 1927 . But now she is my creation, she is going to be a true Ratrod, complete with some rust left on her! I built my own frame using a 26 Chevy front cross member, (just to make things differant from the norm)The body sets on it real nice and looks very cool!
Right now it's coming along pretty well, slowly but yet pretty good.. Got the front end all mounted 3 weeks ago, am runnning a suicide stle with a 5" dropped axle, still have to mount the shocks but that should be pretty easy.. I just finished the rear end last week, am running my own eliptic suspention on the rear. Sure was a lot more work that what I thought it would be, I thought it would be a very easy rear end to mount but, am very happy wth how it's turned out. The frame will ride at 5.5" of ground clearance when completed, that's as low as I wnted to go so hopefully I won't drag, to much! Got the motor mounts built for the 350 and got it all mounted in place, it's mounted kind of high, 6.5", wanted to make sure there was no whay to drag the oil pan (been there done that before!) Am going to run two 97's just for the sack of coolness. Am going to have to run a eletric fan on the radiator though, darn it! But I think I can hide it behind the Case tractor radiator shell.
Hopefully will get the body back on this weeklend so I can get the stearing colume mounted and the floors. in Really enjoying this build. ....Am planning on making her a mid 20's Chevy when it's all said and done, after all there are more Chevy parts than Ford on her and I am a true Chevy guy through and through!**)[HTML]
Just a bit of an update on the projects at the shop. The Plymouth is coming along quite well. I put the front suspension on for the mock up with the 2" drop spindles and it's a bit too low so I'll have to switch them out to the standard height spindles. Got the fuel tank and made a cradle for it to set on. The tank and battery will be in the rear of the car separated from the passenger compartment by a steel firewall. Sent the transmission out to have it checked over, Bill is almost done welding up the floor so it can be installed. The owner brought up the seats for the car, so I can start building the seat mounts. Ordered the pieces today to build the headers and exhaust system. Once completed we'll send them off to be ceramic coated. Going to have to do a bit of planning to get the booster and master cylinder installed, I don't want a hanging pedal, so going to have to get a bit "creative" to get the components installed...
The front suspension is on the subframe for the '69 Camaro. The body bushings are on back order, should ship on Wednesday so hopefully the subframe can be installed next weekend, then get the frame ties built and installed. For now, the engine is going to be a stock 454 with a few shiny's bolted on. Sorry Pat, the owner doesn't have the money for the real engine til probably next winter.
The '69 Mustang should make it to the paint booth this week, then the assembly begins. The car has a decent 351W in it now, the owner will go with it as is, then probably next winter go with a stroker kit and some good heads...
Waiting to come in for a total build is a '66 Chevy pickup and a '67 Camaro. Staying plenty busy for start up in a new shop!!!!
Looks like your busy Dave! Thats good to hear.
This week/weekend my son and I got the passenger side of the Elky mitered and boxed. One side is safe. May have to relocate the shocks for more suspension trave. Plan to drop the upper rear shock support an inch to gain an inch of height in the rear. He's already fussing but I told him he really needs that extra space. Just driving around the house I've bottomed out on the oil pan twice. Going to raise the front an inch also. They put this thing in the weeds and while it looks great....it just doesnt work in the rear world. :(
Found a couple more issues. A slow leak at the front of the oil pan....looks like we'll be pulling/raising the engine for a new pan gasket. Is it common to put in an 8 quart oil pan? I just put in 8 quarts of Mobile 1 to get the dip stick to register where is should. I hope its not overfilled with some odd off the wall dipstick. I've seen quite a few 6 and 7 quart pans....just not an 8 for a small block? Other problem is the way they ran the fuel line at the rear....up an over the rear crossmember. Looks like it might rub. Plan to hard line down the center of bed over to an inline fuel filter in the middle of vehicle. All in all....fun to drive. And that 3100 RPM module make him honest. :LOL::LOL:
Dave G
How about mounting the booster/mc further back and using a longer, stouter actuator rod?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
That's one option, though the height on the frame rails gets a bit tight... the floor footwell has an upslope at the front. Have to get the headers built and could possibly be room up there... Just going to have to get a few more things mocked up and figure which option would be the better choice....But I do have some very nice 1/2" OD moly tubing ready!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Looks really cool, Dave!