Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree463Likes

Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 6 of 59 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 56 ... LastLast
Results 76 to 90 of 880
  1. #76
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    Well here's what I did this week to the 40. I started measuring things and using a level and found out that the back 25 inches of the rails didn't line up height wise. The right side low lower by and inch than the left. Which ones right ? There really was noway to tell for sure. I put the boxing plate that I got from Welder Series in the right side and tacked it in place. Than heated the rail just past the plate and bent the rail up 1/2 inch , did the same on the other and bend it down 1/2 inch. Before I did the bending I traced a pattern off the left rail and compared it to the right and found that only the last 25 inches were out. When it was all cooled off everything measured up good. Sometimes I get lucky and it seems that today was one of them or at least till someone chimes in and tells me that I screwed up. Still have to weld the bushing to the frame for the shackle .




    Also finished my cab mounting blocks
    Last edited by Navy7797; 04-26-2013 at 07:38 PM.
    randyr likes this.

  2. #77
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,969

    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Well here's what I did this week to the 40. I started measuring things and using a level and found out that the back 25 inches of the rails didn't line up height wise. The right side low lower by and inch than the left. Which ones right ? There really was noway to tell for sure. I put the boxing plate that I got from Welder Series in the right side and tacked it in place. Than heated the rail just past the plate and bent the rail up 1/2 inch , did the same on the other and bend it down 1/2 inch. Before I did the bending I traced a pattern off the left rail and compared it to the right and found that only the last 25 inches were out. When it was all cooled off everything measured up good. Sometimes I get lucky and it seems that today was one of them or at least till someone chimes in and tells me that I screwed up. Still have to weld the bushing to the frame for the shackle .
    The shackle bushings are looking good, Navy!! Just curious if you measured your frame before or after you took out that last cross brace at the end of the frame...It doesn't appear that you welded any cross bracing on the rails so just wondering if the frame sprung a little when you broke that loose.......I'm just kinda thinking out loud here and you probably know this already, but most crossmember installation kits recommend tacking a crossbar to the rails before removing any crossmembers.
    At any rate, sounds like you have it tweaked back into shape.
    bluestang67 likes this.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  3. #78
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    13,139

    Quite a piece of work your undertaking, and it looks like it's coming together fine. Keep up the good work and thanks for the pics.

  4. #79
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
    Posts
    9,505

    Looking good! Hard to tell from a picture, but in that third shot are you getting good penetration on your weld? Boxing plates look pretty, but they get quite a bit of twist & torsion force. It's especially important if you're grinding the welds for looks.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  5. #80
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    The shackle bushings are looking good, Navy!! Just curious if you measured your frame before or after you took out that last cross brace at the end of the frame...It doesn't appear that you welded any cross bracing on the rails so just wondering if the frame sprung a little when you broke that loose.......I'm just kinda thinking out loud here and you probably know this already, but most crossmember installation kits recommend tacking a crossbar to the rails before removing any crossmembers.
    At any rate, sounds like you have it tweaked back into shape.
    Took lots of measurements before I removed the crossmembers.

  6. #81
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Looking good! Hard to tell from a picture, but in that third shot are you getting good penetration on your weld? Boxing plates look pretty, but they get quite a bit of twist & torsion force. It's especially important if you're grinding the welds for looks.
    My welds look like crap, I can't seem to see what I'm welding and thus the bad looks. I'm welding hot but maybe I'll just it up another notch. Got to grind all that weld off.

  7. #82
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    27 april 40 ford

     



    Working on the boxing of the frame and welding off un needed holes today. In this process I had to fit parts to the frame to see what holes are needed and not.
    When looking at the inter fender well I wonder what are mounting holes ? The rear holes are elf explanatory its the front ones I seek your in puts.


    your thoughts ?

  8. #83
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Santa Monica
    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
    Posts
    1,969

    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Working on the boxing of the frame and welding off un needed holes today. In this process I had to fit parts to the frame to see what holes are needed and not.
    When looking at the inter fender well I wonder what are mounting holes ? The rear holes are elf explanatory its the front ones I seek your in puts.
    your thoughts ?
    On my '37, the section of the inner fender in front of the MII is also against the frame rail and I think that brace bolts to the same area as the radiator mounts but the 40 is probably a little different. To test it out, you could mount the other side the same as you have this one and then measure the width of the grille opening to see how close you are.....just a thought...
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  9. #84
    bluestang67's Avatar
    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    New Lenox
    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
    Posts
    2,787

    Going great great Randy can get the frame pics up for you to see . They are the so close to identical .

    .

  10. #85
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
    Posts
    9,505

    Navy, I was having the same problem seeing my weld until I picked up a better helmet from my welding store. Didn't go expensive, just as Miller Pro-Hobby but the adjustment on sensitivity and darkness was sooooo much better than the Northern Tools bargain helmet.
    cffisher likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #86
    cffisher's Avatar
    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Constantine
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 chevy 2 dr wagon /73 Nova hatchback
    Posts
    9,321

    Yep if you can't see you can't weld. I thought I was going blind and bough a new helmet WOW what a differance
    rspears likes this.
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
    W8AMR
    http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
    Christian in training

  12. #87
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    I have a good adjustable Hobart helmet but I think I need to change the not so clear anymore front lens. duh.
    thanks for the inputs guys

  13. #88
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,595

    You've got a piece of strap you ask, "is this the right mount". The answer is, not exactly. In stock configuration there's a wishbone like yoke that ties both inner aprons together and then bolts at the center front of the original front cross member for supporting the fenders and allowing some body flex different from frame flex. Depending on where your engine ends up you might not be able to use that, many times that happens. In that case substitute brackets mounted similarly to your strap would do. You'll need something with more substance and a couple folds for strength. Go to Bob Drake's online catalog and look up HR-16138 to see the bracket he offers. If you don't want to spring for his you can at least see how to fab similar. Those two holes down low in front might be added by a previous owner for who knows what. They aren't on my '41, and I don't see them in other inner panels I've seen in pictures. BTW that other hole above and to the right of the strap mounting hole is for the upper radiator brackets. If you've got a stock radiator you will see some keyhole shaped holes in the side braces of the rad that the rad bracket bolts drop into. These are simple, flat straps but with a twist/step in them. Again, those can be found in Drakes catalog.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  14. #89
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,505

    Just reading this post for the first time. Nice work and good questions. I'm learning as I read! Nice truck too. Will look cool when done. Did Tech get back to you on the engine? Keep posting, Steve.
    Whiplash23T likes this.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  15. #90
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    selma
    Posts
    553

    Thanks for your knowledge Bob ! Very helpful.
    I have a wish bone looking thing that came with the truck, I bet that's the bone your referring too. Thanks again.
    Last edited by Navy7797; 04-28-2013 at 03:30 PM.

Reply To Thread
Page 6 of 59 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 56 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink