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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #121
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Does the "helper" make a good wheel chock??

  2. #122
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    deleting defective link
    Last edited by jerry clayton; 06-02-2013 at 08:53 AM.

  3. #123
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    I couldn't get it to go.. facebook link?

  4. #124
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    GetAttachment[5].jpgMVC-624F_3_[1].jpgGetAttachment[2].jpg

    mAYBE THIS IS BETTER
    In 2 of these you can see the fixture I wrote about made out of some channel iron with a center section reversed so a block can lay on top of it locating the crank centerline at the top of frame rails

    also ,maybe, you can make out in the first pic toward the rear end that I had made a tube that was the length midliength of shock travel length(ride ht) for the rear end so chassis sat at ride ht as I worked on/mocked stuff up

  5. #125
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    If you go to my photo gallery here and with it set for 12 pics per page (49-60) on page 5 you can see some of the build on this 32 5 window

  6. #126
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Let's try this .. hope you don't mind!
    Attached Images

  7. #127
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    thanks 34----------I have emailed RS about 60 some pics of the buid and hes going to see what he can do about getting them up---

    And a great big thanks to Roger for helping me out all the time-----

  8. #128
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Jerry,
    I think the one that's most applicable is the neat jig you made to set the bare block on, shown in your last group but it's pretty grainy. The jig, made of three pieces of angle, is shown in place across the frame in front of the pipe clamp. The block, minus the crank, would sit on the center section at top-of-frame. Neat!

    MVC-624F.JPG
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  9. #129
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    Thanks Roger

    And you can see plainly the 2 tubing pieces I used on the rear suspension to similate ride height at mid point of the coil overs I used. also visable is the motor mounts are installed and hanging just behind where my block fixture is laying in the photo.

  10. #130
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Hey thanks for the inputs guys, all very helpful. I hope to have an engine with a crank and harmonic balancer soon so I can check all clearances from the front cross member and from the radiator back and get this moving along again.

    Thanks again !!

  11. #131
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    My dog Pretzel likes to help too, but his measuring skills are off, heck that's why I had to move my engine forward a inch, last year!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  12. #132
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    Pretzel maybe a little twisted don't trust him
    Bob Parmenter and Whiplash23T like this.
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  13. #133
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    I would suggest that you make a fixture like my channel iron piece and use a mockup block without a crank in it so as you position the engine it keeps the crank c/l at top frame level and level side to side--------its easy to measure and slide sideways for centering the crank or for any amount of offset--
    Put the engine pretty much as far reaware as you can depending on distributor clearance and bell housing to firewall----------------that will give you the most room for accessories on front altho there may be some allowances you'll have to make depending on where you mount alternator and a/c.

  14. #134
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    I would suggest that you make a fixture like my channel iron piece and use a mockup block without a crank in it so as you position the engine it keeps the crank c/l at top frame level and level side to side--------its easy to measure and slide sideways for centering the crank or for any amount of offset--
    Put the engine pretty much as far reaware as you can depending on distributor clearance and bell housing to firewall----------------that will give you the most room for accessories on front altho there may be some allowances you'll have to make depending on where you mount alternator and a/c.
    3rd attempt at posting tonight, can't seem to hit the right button !
    Jerry: I made a fixture like yours but it seems to hold the engine high and would cause me to have a big tranny tunnel through my cab. Is there any thing wrong with having the center line of the crank lower than the top of the frame rail ? pictures shows 2 inches of clearance.

  15. #135
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    Sorry about that Navy---just been looking at the frame specs at Wescottsauto.com and see that the 1940 stuff has quite a rise to the front frame rails that ain't there on te earlyer ones----it will need some adjustment for that differance -----------------

    I also have a 9 inch ford rear end with a 2 3/4 tube thru the pinion support that then fits in the mains of a BBC for perfect set up og drive shaFT ANGLES----but it works best for race cars with a centerline mounted pinion as most of the street cars have some offset-------------

    Off subject---is that Selma alabama?????????????????????? was down there in 60s for the march when I was in 7th Cav---------
    Last edited by jerry clayton; 06-10-2013 at 07:33 PM.

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