Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
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06-10-2013 09:22 PM #136
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06-17-2013 08:14 PM #137
Well here's the latest completed work on the 40. Cross members and engine mounts. I'm not really happy with the last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&. I started making a drive shaft loop and was going to use it but in the name of strength I though 2 bars with bends were better. I'm hoping after the bed is on I'll forget what it looks like. I'm wondering if I should put some upright pieces in to complete a loop of sorts ?
Last edited by Navy7797; 07-09-2013 at 06:29 PM. Reason: grammer
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07-09-2013 06:53 PM #138
Bad News
Today is a rotten day, my 327 has a cracked block ! So now I'm going with a 283 which has bee bored out .030 over. Wanting to use the heads from the 327 because I have no other heads and it forces me to buy new pistons. The ones I have for the 283 are high compression and won't clear the heads. If things keep going south I might have to buy a 350 crate engine. Worked on the front end to set the ride height. I weighted all parts of the front and than started stacking steel on on top of the block till i had the same amt. Ended up cutting off 3/4 of a coil from the spring to obtain what I think is the the right ride height. Before the spring cut off, the upper control arms where hitting the springs even with the weight they were pushing down so hard, also it wouldn't allow me to adjust the camber/caster to get the front wheels straight up and down, they leaned out at the top bad. Your 2 cents is always welcome. Here's a picture.
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07-10-2013 07:46 AM #139
Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!
Just curious how much you cut off your springs. Do you have stock spindles or dropped ones?"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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07-10-2013 07:55 AM #140
Yeah Randy, that '40 is probably just revolting a bit, not wanting to be wearing a bow tie in it's golden years!!
Navy, what do you mean by....last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&.Last edited by rspears; 07-10-2013 at 08:01 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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07-10-2013 07:57 AM #141
Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//
I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------
and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size
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07-10-2013 05:49 PM #142
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07-10-2013 05:53 PM #143
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07-10-2013 06:01 PM #144
Pistons won't clear the heads /valves because their an after market high compression type, big dome.
Today I basically did what your saying a little backwards. I did remove the springs and use pipe to set the ride height to the same as I had it after the springs were cut.
Block is a 1962, small journal.
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07-10-2013 07:33 PM #145
The pistons should clear the heads unless the heads have been maybe angle milled---------or, possibly(seen it several times) they are installed backwards??????????
You can use your 327 stuff in a 350 block but you'll need to get a set of spacer main bearings------
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07-11-2013 12:59 PM #146
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Hey Navy, I really like how you did your new X Member of your frame. I think I just figured out how I want to do my 40's. Thanks.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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07-11-2013 09:21 PM #147
I haven't seen why they won't work with my own eyes, going by what my engine builder told me. This motor as with the 327 came in a box completely apart. Heads have been milled/cut at least once. I'll have to look into it further and see what and the why's of it. I think its valve clearance issue vice the actual head itself. I wish I had the confidence to build it my self but its been 30 yrs since my last engine build.
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07-11-2013 09:43 PM #148
I started by looking at pictures of frames on the internet. Then bought some tube .100" wall and started bending. Thats the short of it. Of course it wasn't exactly the easy. Getting the end product to come out the same length and radius took some work and a little cut and splice. The splices were to get match length and done with sleeves inside with holes drilled in outer tube than welded and of course welded around the seam. The depth of the tubes inboard of the frame rails was determined by the power booster for the brakes that is mounted between the rail and the tube frame work. The rest all came from the pictures that I saw on the net. I did make a wood template from plywood to use to help get the radius and lengths right. Length can be gotten right the first time if your not in a rush and think it through. I can give you more info on the lay-out pre-bending if you like.
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07-12-2013 08:42 AM #149
Looks like you'll be ok---putting those power brake boosters down there sure eats up room for left side exhaust
Altho it might not work on yours with the leaf springs----but a car with coil overs on the rear can use a setup for a late 90s up to 2004 Mustang for mufflers and tail pipes--takes a little shortening where the tip is but they line up under the frame rail beside the fuel tank(33-34 type fords)
Project seems to be coming along nicely
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07-12-2013 06:38 PM #150
Jerry: Your right about that left side exhaust it's going to take some plumbing.
Today I made a bracket to hold the yoke the supports the front fenders. Its 1/4 thick 7" wide and tapers down to 5" at the radius, 8" hanging forward of the cross member. To my surprise it has flex in it and I may need to put gussets under it. Trying to get all things welded to the frame before I sandblast and paint it, I hate burning good paint. Today's pic's, input welcome.
Uncle Bob is giving you sound, factual advice. My friend that sold a car at Gateway shared that the sales guy told him that they have car owners who decide they would like to sell, but also want a...
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