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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #61
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Fordflambe: That's a Sweet looking ride !

  2. #62
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ok Guys here's another question for you. Radiators is the topic. I'm looking at $305 to $812.99
    All listed as US made and all are welded Aluminum, all with tranny coolers
    Dissrad radiators has there's at $305 plus $45 in shipping
    Griffin radiators $649.99 free shipping
    Walker radiators $812.99
    I'm sure there are more out there. What do you feel is the best manufacture to use and is aluminum better then copper/brass ? Thanks again

  3. #63
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    I've used Walker copper/brass. Nice piece. Call Ron Davis before you pull the trigger....
    Ron Davis custom aluminum race car radiator contact information. Custom Radiators
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #64
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    I used U.S. Radiator, copper/brass construction without a killing price.
    They also have aluminum if you prefer.

    U.S. Radiator | The Difference Is In The Tooling

  5. #65
    rspears's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
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    Another one to check is PRC Radiators - Aluminum Racing Radiators, Reservoirs, Oil Coolers, Cooling Components, Chassis, Brakes : Indiana Illinois Kentucky Tri-State Good guys with a history built on racing, now supplying a ton of street rod applications.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #66
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE=techinspector1;491362]If you'll post the casting numbers off the heads (in between the valve guides), I'll run a a DynoSim of affordable parts and spit out a hp and torque figure for you, in the event you want to keep the motor and build it as a vintage 327. Also, get me the stamped alpha-numeric suffix number on the block. It's on the passenger side of the block, at the very front, on the deck where the head bolts on. If you can't see the suffix number on the block deck, that means that the block has been decked in the past and the alpha-numbers have been destroyed. On the back of the block just before the bellhousing flange, at the top of the block, is another casting number. Post that one as well please.

    Techinspector1: Here's the #'s I could find. It looks like the block must have been decked at one time, can't find any #'s on the deck.

    Block # just before Bellhousing = GM 3858180 also has a T-8 and J and D225 in same area.
    Head # 1 = 8782461 also on head= GM1 L11 4
    Head # 2= 8782461 also on head= GM2 L11 4
    I'm very curious as to what I have, thanks for your time !

    gordy

  7. #67
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Another question. Not having seen a radiator installed in a 40 ford I need to ask this, are these the radiator mounts in the picture ?


    Thanks again for the post replys.

  8. #68
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Anybody have any good pictures of a 2 leaf rear suspension set up for a 40 truck ?

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Another question. Not having seen a radiator installed in a 40 ford I need to ask this, are these the radiator mounts in the picture ?
    Thanks again for the post replys.
    Not a '40 guy, but from the Early Ford Barn 1940 Radiator mount dimensions - The Ford Barn ; and the pictures here - Google Image Result for https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/r270/226711_611726279009_76753580_n.jpg those are indeed your radiator mounts, but someone hogged that one out a bit.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  10. #70
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks RSPEARS, they match with what I have on my frame.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Navy7797 View Post
    Anybody have any good pictures of a 2 leaf rear suspension set up for a 40 truck ?
    My '37 sedan has the same frame. Here are a few pics of it:

    For many years I ran with early sixties Ford Galaxie springs and mounts. (they were 1.75" wide and don't remember the length). They rode fine but I wanted to go a little lower.

    Picked up a set of 2.5" springs from a guy off craigslist. They came off his '40 chassis from SAC Hotrods and he decided to go with a mono leaf spring. They were new and cheap and made for a 35-40 chassis. Then I bought a Chassis Engineering mounting kit that mounts the rear shackle thru the frame and sway bar to attach my '57 Ford 9".

    rear mount under car 1_1.JPGrear mount shackle_1.JPGreardisc5.jpgrearendmount2_1.JPGrear mount lower 2_1.JPG
    bluestang67 likes this.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    My '37 sedan has the same frame. Here are a few pics of it:

    Attachment 57854Attachment 57858Attachment 57855Attachment 57856Attachment 57857
    HMmmm.. So you really do have a 37! And pics to prove it! WOW!
    randyr likes this.

  13. #73
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    Thanks randyr for your post.

  14. #74
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Whats your thoughts on my leaf spring idea ?
    I want to weld a sleeve through the boxed frame to support the Rear spring shackle. Should I use Rubber or Bronze bushings for this location, the spring will use a rubber bushing.


    How much space should be between the spring and frame? want to keep it a close as possible to keep the frame height down.

    Please give me your thoughts, thanks

  15. #75
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    That's basically the same idea as what I did to my '37 except I bought a bolt-in kit instead of making my own. I'm not sure about the exact distance between the spring and the frame without measuring but I don't think it's more than an inch.

    My kit had the shackle sleeve and 2 mounting bolt sleeves welded to an angled piece that is bolted both horizontally and also vertically through the bottom of the frame rail. I had to drill a 1.25" hole it the frame rail for the shackle sleeve. The kit uses rubber bushings. What you're planning looks like it will work just as well and probably better!

    What may look a little weird in the pics is the foot or so of 3/16 angle iron welded to the tail end of my frame rails..... My dad & I first built this car back when I was in college. He thought the end of the frame looked a little thin to be holding up springs so he beefed it up! It looks kinda like crap but it's been there for many years......in a perfect world, I would just buy a beautiful new frame but that's not in the cards at this juncture....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

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