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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    From what I remember when I had my 40 pick up, was trhat all cabs 40-47 were dang near the same and interchanged. I'm not 100% on that though. My 40 had the gas filler like yours too.
    lamin8r likes this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #32
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the input guys. I'm not sure what year it is, but from your posts I'm thinking it won't really matter when it comes to the floor sheet metal.

  3. #33
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
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    Been away for Easter for a few days, but it doesn't look like you've gotten a complete answer on the cab thing. The fuel fill in the LR fender is correct for the '40/1 pickup. On the larger trucks (which used essentially the same cab) the tank was mounted under the seat rather than at the back end of the frame, so had the fill on the passenger side of the cab where that hole in yours is. Also the pickups from '42-7 had the tank under the seat as well, so your cab likely came from one of those models. As noted, there's not much difference as far as the cab perimeter, so any of the floors should work for your app.

    Looks like you added a question about the rear cross member in one of your edits. If you're going with the pair of parallel springs under the frame rails then the only purposes served by the original cross member is shock mounting and frame integrity (and maybe exhaust hanger). It could easily be replaced by a box tube structure with heavy enough wall thickness to take the shock absorber load. There's nothing wrong with the stock piece as long as it's not rotted badly, but it would clean up the underside at least visually if a straight member were there.
    34_40 likes this.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  4. #34
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the input Bob.
    I have another question for you and anybody else that wants to input.
    The Leaf springs I have are from a Ford Explore Sport and to me their just to big. I would have to have the front perch at the forward most part of the hump in the rail in others down where it gets flat. The shackles for the rear of the spring would have to be at the Very rear of the frame rail to keep the axle centered and then I'd need to use blocks to get the rear back down to earth. Does anybody know of a year , make and model car/truck that would have a better spring to use ? I know there's kits to buy but that's not in the cards for me. I can fab perch's but not spring's. Somebody must have used something that worked out just right. Thanks again.

  5. #35
    IC2
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    Navy, as long as that chassis is getting cleaned up, why not consider coil over spring and shock combos along with either a triangulated or 4 bar system and a panhard bar?

    As far as spring information, take a look here: Eaton Detroit Spring Home
    Last edited by IC2; 04-02-2013 at 05:02 AM.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  6. #36
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    I like Daves suggestion about EDS as you'll be able to tailor the spring to your app for rate and ride height.

    I don't remember the specific year/model, but somewhere in history I remember reading that Chassis Engineering got the springs for their kit originally from a Dodge van, just don't recall if it was full size or mini van. They then based their production units on that spring. While I've used the CE setup a few times, I've always had to use lowering blocks to get the back end at the right height. And always had to change them after awhile as the springs settled. Also had to play with the number of leaves used to "adjust" the rate. So, with all that, and the age factor, a new EDS spring pair might actually end up being a decent deal.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  7. #37
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm just plain confused, I have posted reply's just like this one and they have not come through or have been deleted. I have emailed a Moderator and Admin with no response, is there anybody who knows who I should try to contact so I can post my truck build ? I've got lots of questions and really like the help I receive here.
    Thanks
    gordy

  8. #38
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    Bill S, mrmustang screen name, is the global moderator. He's got a lot of irons in the fire right now, but still keeps a hand on the tiller.
    Brent Mills, screen name Brent Mills, owns the forum and some others, and is the super sleuth on all things computer.
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  9. #39
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford Sedan
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    Where oh where is Tex Smith when we need him? He was famous for taking stock items from different cars and making them work on Hot Rods. Bet he could rattle a spring swap off the top of his head. I want to remember that some springs from 60's Ford cars were usable for you. The way to go is to measure what you think the center to center spring distance would fit best, then go looking. Don't look for stuff like the Explorer unless you can remove leafs from them. They will be too stiff. Look for similar car springs that have leaf stacks in them. That way you can tune the ride by removing leafs. Long leafs make softer ride, short springs in the stack make stiff rides. If you can free some bucks, best option is Posie's Super Slide springs, take a look at his catalog, lots of information. Other option is to get a truck spring maker to make up what you want. I have had that done twice now and both times have been perfect. Exact ride height I requested and exact ride smoothness I wanted. Cost was not bad for the two springs. Good Luck.
    Last edited by Scooting; 04-04-2013 at 10:05 PM. Reason: spelling

  10. #40
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    If I remember correctly the rear springs in a chassis engineering kit are from the front of a 48-50 dodge pick up? As far as newer stuff, maybe a ford ranger or s-10 possibly?
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  11. #41
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have the spring thing just about figured out but I'm wondering about the spring capacity. Here are 3 of my choices at this point 477, 640 and 920 lbs per spring. These are off a Jeeps of varying models most are CJ5 - CJ8 with aprox. 44 inches between eyes, which would fit the frame. What do you think about the Spring Capacity issue ?

  12. #42
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    In order to really know you need to beg, borrow, rent or otherwise get hold of four load cells/scales to see what your weight distribution is. Or you could visit your local Co-Op or truck stop that advertises having scales and see if they'd weigh your front axle/back axle for you. Anything else is going to be a guess - maybe an educated guess based on similar car, or some other logical approach, but a guess just the same. Just my quick thought - may be wrong....
    Last edited by rspears; 04-05-2013 at 03:36 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  13. #43
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    Roger has the correct answer, get the weight on the axles. Hard to do when it is all apart, huh?
    Are the Jeep springs single leaf or multi-leaf? If multi-leaf, you can tune. I assume the CJ8 are the highest rated. That Jeep was longer, a pickup, and rated as a 1/2 ton. If I were picking out of the blue, I would go with the middle rating. But as Roger said, it is a guess.

  14. #44
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    Maybe Uncle Bob can offer some suggestions about approximate weight, and front to back bias on a '40 pickup? Then you could plug in the weight of your engine & tranny choice, maybe tweak the numbers a bit if they differ from the example, and get pretty close? Gotta be a way! Like maybe a search for weight on the 'net? Here's one 1940 Ford Street Rod Pickup Truck tricked out that says it shipped at 2737lbs, maybe round that to 2750lbs? What's the weight bias unloaded, maybe 65/35 front to rear? If you assume that your back springs are going to be carrying only around 962.5, right (2750x0.35=962.5). Now say you want to be able to tote 1000lbs (1/2 T) and you're at 1962.5, or right at a ton for the rear which puts you at 1000lbs per wheel. But you might want to do part of that as a "helper" spring, where the main leaf has to squash down a bit before the last couple see any weight? Make any sense?

    Now that's just a WAG based on looking at a similar truck and a pure guess at the 65/35 split, but I'd think it's pretty close and probably where I'd go. I might also visit a local spring shop that makes up custom springs and visit with them as much as they'd allow, just to get educated a bit on specifics. Sorry for the long winded post - just felt like we were leaving you hanging with the "weigh it" answer.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  15. #45
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    Contact EDS, they have a library of thousands of vehicles and which springs to use.

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