Wow you guy really pay attention to the details. This is an awesome restoration to follow, that inspires us all. I wouldn't mind getting some mig tips from Kyle!
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Wow you guy really pay attention to the details. This is an awesome restoration to follow, that inspires us all. I wouldn't mind getting some mig tips from Kyle!
Thanks for taking time to respond guys.
More progress on the condenser mount... The flange fold marks are run through the tipping wheel to better show the bend location. I've found that when using the press brakes this helps to "feel" when the upper die is located properly, less guesswork with the eyeballs where it's harder to see in the press brake dies..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202712.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202713.jpg
Clamped in place for a test fit..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202714.jpg
The side folds add some stiffening as well as hide the bolt heads for the core support baffle plates.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202715.jpg
Test fit of the condenser...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202718.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202719.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202720.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202722.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202723.jpg
Radiator brackets got a nut welded in the bottom hole, the condenser mount will get nuts welded in place for the top 2 sets of holes, so everything will bolt in from the outside in..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202724.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202726.jpg
Making the slots for the radiator brackets, used a cone shaped burr....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202728.jpg
Found that this cutter had less chatter when the cutting edge was perpendicular to the hole opening...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202729.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202730.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202731.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202727.jpg
Some more details to iron out on the condenser mount, the corners seemed to "roll" a bit, so some corner braces are in order..
Using 16 gauge cold rolled, holes drilled to provide an inside radius to help prevent stress cracking..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202732.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202733.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202735.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202736.jpg
Plug welds to hold things together..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202738.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202739.jpg
Bob Heine over on GJ suggested using a Corvette antenna as they use an escutcheon with a flush fit, so I had a Corvette part delivery over the weekend, size of the business end is rather larger than the aftermarket one we had. As this fit in the void behind the A pillar (see in background between cowl vent and A pillar) and also needs to dodge the hinges closing, this did cause some interference. Dan thought this was from a late 80's/early 90's..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202744.jpg
The biggest issue with the universal power antenna we have is that the top of the fender is considerably rounded, and the antenna escutcheon is designed for flat. So we are also looking at the factory piece, to see if we could adapt (drill hole larger) to use with the power antenna.
http://htsmall.classicchevy.com/asse.../sku/02-07.jpg
Just a thought, couldn't you cut off the teardrop portion of the universal mount leaving just the round portion. This would be easier to shape to the fender and there should be enough meat left on the round portion to drill and tap for mounting. If needed, an underside piece could be fabed to stiffen things up.
Jack.
Another thought:rolleyes:;), leave the universal as is and mount it from the underside of the fender leaving just the round portion to stick through the fender. This may require some reshaping of the top of the uni mount to fit the fender and you would have to find a new way to attach the mount to the fender. With your skills that should not be a problem.;):)
Jack.
You've made the radio disappear....why not make the antenna disappear, too?? If the owner insists on a power antenna, then perhaps recess it into the fender in the most inconspicous way. If not, use a quality hidden one and keep the fender smooth. Just a thought....:)
Can you get a windshield with antenna built in?
This one comes with 13 interchangeable heads for different mounting positions
Am FM Radio Power Antenna Mast Kit Mercedes 350SL 380SL 450SL 560SL R107 | eBay
Thanks for all the ideas guys. Still waiting for the owner to call back on a decision....
In the meantime, more progress on the condenser, used some machine screws to attach to the bracket, and some AVK style rivet-nuts in the frame of the condenser to act as a captive nut.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202747.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202749.jpg
Bolted in place...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202752.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202753.jpg
Meanwhile Kyle ties up some loose ends, finishing the weld across the remaining "shaved" lead seam on the passenger quarter.. It does need some grinding on the underside of the weld still but we'll wait for the car to be on the rotisserie for easier access.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202765.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202766.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202770.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202771.jpg
Fitment of the Driver's side tail light... this was even worse than the passenger side in fitment, and we did need to make a relief cut at the top, but after some massaging, it's getting close. A few more tweaks to get this done and then the headache of installing the motorized tail light pivot for fuel fill access..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202768.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202769.jpg
Great work and good luck on the antenna dilema.
Sorry for the slight hiatus, been in UK and just got back this past weekend. Time to catch up on what we had done before I left and what Kyle did while I was gone to take up my slack..
Part of our fitment issue with the passenger tail light was that we are installing the "hidden fuel fill" which required the removal of the brace welded in the opening. Next, when the old quarter was cut off and the new one installed, without the brace in place both pieces tended to wrap to the right, which can sort of be seen in the following picture, where its flush above the inside corner and rotates to the right upwards of that. The outer quarter was rotated in a similar fashion. We weren't having much luck in resolving the issue with the top weld seam remaining, so a relief cut was added, a restraint device employed to make use of some off dolly bumping to eliminate some of the right rotation. I didn't get a good picture of it, but you can see where the inner quarter comes in considerably upwards of the tail light right corner..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202772.jpg
Anchor
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202778.jpg
Off-dolly bumping...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202779.jpg
Then some shrinking was used to pull in the inner quarter, and a 16 ga plate used to hold things in place while the top seam was re-welded.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202780.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202782.jpg
Kyle got the seam welded closed...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202789.jpg
And temporary brace removed...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202791.jpg
Much better, almost ready to tackle the "fuel door" pivot...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202793.jpg
Great work! Man, that was off quite a bit! How was the trip to the UK? Did you see or visit anything cool?
Ryan, it was a quick trip for work and didn't offer much for sight seeing. Should be going back next spring, hope to take in some sights then..
Got another care package in the mail... The new escutcheon for the antenna looks like it will work, the hole size matches the nut on the antenna and we'll just need to get rid of the flat spot/keyway in the hole. Only I don't think we'll be using this one. Between a recess under the chrome and visible scratches in it, this one's going back.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202817.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202818.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202819.jpg
On to the next new pieces, hopefully these fit better, Reproduction headlight buckets..... wanted to test fit all the headlight and turn signal pieces before re-priming the fenders..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202801.jpg
Decided to use some AVK rivet nuts over the u-clips..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202801.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202802.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202804.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202805.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202816.jpg
Parts fitted..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202812.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202814.jpg
This continues to be one of my favorite build threads. Amazing metal work!!
Interesting how simply adding headlights brings the car to life....:)
Like lipstick on a pig! :LOL:
Well this isn't much of an update, but since Kyle was busy media blasting some parts I had torch and hammer duty.. So to have a place to drop the torch quickly, bent this up:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202820.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202821.jpg
When the top seam was welded we had a slight bulge just in from the tail light. So some dime sized spots were heated and then hammered with glancing blows to bring things down a bit.. The fit of the tail light is much better now, and we've started the fitup of the motor assembly's mounting plate. Should get that welded in tomorrow..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202822.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202823.jpg
Well, if you say so.....:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Attachment 63849
Nice work on the light fitting! Now that I've been watching this thread I can spot bad lines on these cars from a little ways out, and there a lto of them. Haha
Well isn't that Purdy!
Worked on the Rocky Hinge hidden fuel door this evening. The mounting plate we made is plug welded to the tail light opening..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202825.jpg
Slight trimming needed.....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202827.jpg
Then some 3M body molding adhesive tape is added to the top of the pivot bracket and the lens pressed in place. Here's the initial test...
https://youtu.be/oZ6JYr988dc
That worked fairly well, so it was clamped in place and a transfer punch used to mark the housing for drilling mounting holes..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202829.jpg
Then the holes were slightly slotted using a dremel for side to side adjustability. Here's the results, from different views....
https://youtu.be/848V2PbuQJw
https://youtu.be/N_Qz0NZxh5g
https://youtu.be/PVeWQyb35j8
OK, now for the bad that we found with the kit... The original lamp housing must be removed for clearance, and a new (included) one gets installed below the original position. The new housing has those spring loaded contacts that some tend to bend over and short out, so I gave the wires a couple gentle tugs to see if the contacts deflected toward the outside shell...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202834.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202835.jpg
Surprise, surprise, the contacts pulled clean off....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202836.jpg
Note there is no copper inside the contacts, indicating these had a loose crimp...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202837.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202838.jpg
Next, the operation of the motor function seemed to be intermittent. A recheck of the power connections showed no issues, so we pressed a bit harder on the switches toggle, and the function returned. Multiple repeat attempts were performed and the switch proved to be the culprit. It appears to be a cheapo switch that has intermittent contact function. So looks like we'll be replacing a couple of the parts for this kit... So much for everything you need in one package.... :rolleyes:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202833.jpg
Sorry to see that you had problems with the electrical connections and the switch, but that mechanism to move the light assembly is super slick! I've not seen a powered unit like that, and it looks to be very well made, with very smooth action to last a long, long time. I really like Rocky Hinge, and the way they support their products.
Sorry to hear of the bad crimps and switch. That actuator seems to work really nice though! That's pretty cool!
I can't really decide if I like it or not! I guess it's like most things in life.. different strokes for different folks.
I do appreciate the engineering involved, and as expected your installation is second to none!
And I certainly thank you for making time for all the pics / write-up AND videos to boot! You're to kind!
I've gotta admit, my first reaction was "Why does this need to be powered?", but then I thought about the option, having it spring loaded closed and the spring weakening over time so that he bezel assembly doesn't close tight. Powered seems to be a good idea for firm closure. For sure it will slow down the kids wanting to siphon gasoline.....
TBH, I'm not sure if I like it either. It will look real good leaving the driveway.. :D
Recently I took delivery of a ball glove pounding pad, $39 on Amazon per a link posted by Johnny Arial on AllMetalShaping. It was very light, and where I did not give it a go with a sheet metal test sample, something in me wanted to see what was inside the bag. So here we go, can't leave well enough alone... :LOL:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202848.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202850.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202849.jpg
Looks like a high density felt pad...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202851.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202852.jpg
My previous shot bag had become a casualty inside of a quarter panel when using it as a dolly... It found a sharp piece of metal which caused the tear... and I caused the cut so I could empty it out and pull it out of the cavity it was in.. It had approx. 50 lbs or better of lead shot in it at the time, and for some reason I didn't think about removal when I was dropping it in the hole.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202853.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202854.jpg
So I had put in an order last night for another bus seat cover (Kevlar material) and took it today with all the pieces to Anthony's Upholstery. This one is a bit smaller, so also more manageable. I think I had about 1/3 of the 50 lbs left over, so may have to make another smaller shot bag..
Comparison, the old to the new one..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202855.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202856.jpg
Something told me when that Amazon order was placed that this thing would have lead shot inside before all was said and done.. It does make a nice shot bag, and has a nice look. :D
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202857.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202859.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202860.jpg
More progress on the wagon, got some SPI epoxy sprayed, hopefully this will wet sand out and be ready for BC/CC.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202888.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202889.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202890.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202891.jpg
Also got some primer on the sheetmetal for an 01 Dyna
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202892.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202893.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202894.jpg
Look Scott, the dent's gone...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202896.jpg
Looks great. What is the sanding process between coats, and how many coats do you apply of color and clear? Thanks, Steve.
Great work! That epoxy lays down so nice it looks like paint!
Kyle learning the fine art of blocking....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202898.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202903.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202908.jpg
Meanwhile, I was wet sanding the motorcycle parts...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202900.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202904.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202905.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202907.jpg
This SPI epoxy sure is nice sanding!
Steve, Kyle started with 180 grit psa on the AFS long board shown, then 400 grit, both dry. Then we'll do 600 wet, mix epoxy as a sealer, then paint..
Thanks for the sanding info, not sure what you mean by mix epoxy as a sealer, before color coat?
He's using SPI epoxy sealer. This LINK explains it all.
Thanks Jack most excellent article!
Wet sanded with 600
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202909.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202910.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202911.jpg
SPI Epoxy seal coat
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202914.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202916.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202917.jpg
Dupont Cromax Black Diamond and clear
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202919.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202920.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202921.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202925.jpg
Awesome finish!
Times 3! Awesome work.
Thanks guys! Scott is supposed to call next week when he gets the Harley back together so we can get a picture of it.
Well, we had gotten some more sanding done......
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202928.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202929.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202930.jpg
.....and since it was still early in the evening, mixed up some more epoxy....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202931.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202932.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202933.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202934.jpg
Doesn't seem like much to show, we're still sanding away....
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202936.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202937.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202976.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202938.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202945.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202946.jpg
Got about half done with the tail gate and remembered we needed some holes drilled in the new skin for the emblem. Only issue was that I had done some spring cleaning earlier this year and the original skin with the hole pattern and location was now gone. So I sent an email to Mikey at The Stainless Shoppe, as he had an original, and he got me squared away... Thanks Mikey!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202953.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202952.jpg
I located the hole for the center alignment pin first, and planned on using some spotters for the remaining 4 holes... Some measurements were taken to insure the emblem was on straight, and then some "backstops" used. The spotters come in a set of various sizes, and typically you never find the exact size you need...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202957.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202959.jpg
These will go in some 10-24 threaded holes on the emblem. The closest size was the 1/8" spotters, so we'll need to adjust the fit..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202958.jpg
A couple wraps of fineline tape and we now have a snug fit so the spotters don't fall out..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202961.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202962.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202960.jpg
Then the emblem is located on the tail gate with the center alignment pin, then the back stops. The emblem is pressed onto the tail gate, and the spotters leave their mark on the epoxy paint finish..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202963.jpg
Next, the studs are installed finger tight using sleeve retainer. This will hopefully keep them from spinning inward any further risking possible damage to the chrome bezel...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202965.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202966.jpg
The nuts that come with the emblem are the split thread variety, and I had some threaded ones left over from the Fairlane build, that also are slightly larger in diameter, which may help out as the emblem also serves as a lift handle..
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202967.jpg
Holes drilled and emblem fitted
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ure%202969.jpg
Great work as usual!
Interesting for me was your "spotters" I have 2 sets and they are called transfer punches. 1 set is just like yours more or less.. the other is more like a pin punch that passes through the threads and you hit the punch to "transfer" the bolts center location.
As always, THANKS for the pics.. and say Hi to Kyle for us!!:D