Sun peeking out here in big way this week too Steve. Spring is sprung officially, so it's back to the trucktime!
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Sun peeking out here in big way this week too Steve. Spring is sprung officially, so it's back to the trucktime!
looking good even with a shop I don't(Can't) find the time I need.
Wow 5" !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Got presented with this at my birthday party last night by my friends Jason & Anne, Absolutely brilliant artwork by Surfmonkey, Needless to say I was gobsmacked !!! The detail is awesome, So a big thank you to Jason, Anne & Tim. Need to find a frame for it now.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps252ace1d.jpg
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HOLY COW another year gone??? Happy Birthday youngen
And and Never being wrong eh mate except when you are but those are so far apart no one can remember . Happy Birthday Steve..
Hope you a a great celebration, sounds like you did.
Cheers guys.
Cheers back at cha big guy!
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V779BIQIjX..._Beer_girl.jpg
Now thats a bit more like it Steve, cheers !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
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Well there goes his progress work now LOL
Over the weekend i managed to knock off lots of pesky 5 minute jobs so the list is fairly short now
My 35 spline Strange Hy-Tuff shafts finally turned up so i slid them in place and put all the brakes back on, it was at this point I thought have I forgot something
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I then thought I would finish off the carpet in the front of the car but my brain kept nagging me about something I had forgot, Got carpet all trimmed up and glued down, stood back to admire and thought it looked bare, thats when I realised I had forgot to fit the handbrake and cables Can't believe I did that !!!
Anyway I dug the handbrake I made out of its hiding place but now it wouldn't fit so put it away for a future project, Luckily I had a Lokar floor mounted handbrake in stock and also a cable kit, It was fiddly getting the cables into the back plates as I had refitted the drum mechanisms, got it done in the end though, works great.
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Looks really clean Steve. I have several Lokar products and they all seem to need a little finessing to get them just right, but they look great once they are fitted.
Very nice work!
These all went together a piece of cake Steve, to be honest i've never had any problems with Lokar stuff, seems to work pretty good.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
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You must follow the instruction sheets! :) My only problem was an excellerator petal, that was missing a part. Once I figured that out, and got the missing part, it worked great!
Well been mostly twiddling my thumbs looking for jobs to do while awaiting the arrival of my heads, got an email 2 days ago saying the head guy was back to work and was hand finishing them Hopefully have them soon
While finishing off the carpeting I found I needed some sill finishers so made them out of 1/8" x 1.5" 316 Stainless, shaped them up and gave them a good polish up.
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Another little job off the decreasing list was to make a filler for the water injection resevour, I had already made up a round plate to seal the large hole so just needed a small screw on lid., Made it in Aluminium as thats all I had In that size. Was going to weld it but it was easier to make a gasket and bolt it in place, It seals on an O ring.
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I had a pair of Holley carbs but got the offer of this pair of Edelbrocks that were new and already modified for a blower and had only been used on a dyno plus I like the look of them better than the Holleys.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps6af7ea46.jpg
I have to sort out the linkages and they came with a Lokar rear bracket, Nicely made but in my opinion a horrible looking thing, gonna either make another or heavily modify this one.
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More beautiful work, Steve. I like the sill plates, but that little tank cap assembly is very impressive. I'd love to have a lathe capable of that, but then I'd quickly come to realize that it's not the machine, it's the machinist!! Thanks for posting!
Yes Roger a lathe is a very useful tool, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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Had a couple of hours spare this afternoon so decided to make a progressive linkage, Some of the bits that came with the carbs was Lokar but I was missing the main link rod between the 2 carbs, A quick search around the net gave me a picture so I found some round aluminium bar so drilled and tapped it to make it adjustable lengthwise, a small rose joint on the end and it all looked fine, the other end I machined up a bit of stainless to make a slotted end to make it progressive, my new milling machine has come on handy once again, how did I ever get by before I had it A quick polish and thats another pesky job ticked off
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I can almost hear it running
Nice work as always, Steve!!! When are your heads going to get back to you?
Hmmm i'm really not sure Dave, MTS have told me they are being worked on as we speak and they could be done in a couple of weeks, then I have to ship them by boat as they are too heavy to go by air freight, it would cost a small fortune by air freight :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
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Yeah, you're really operating at a severe disadvantage with all the outrageous freight charges these days! Makes me (again) realize how easy we have it over here with everything so readily accessible....
Well whilst waiting for my heads to arrive I decided to make front & rear anti roll bars for the car, they are made from Chromemoly tube, 1" at the front & 3/4" at the rear, I'm using some Energy Suspension chassis mounts and an adjustable link each end comprising of 3/8" rose joints and some turned down stainless hexagon bar.
The dual blades each end get boxed off to stop any twisting.
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You do outstanding word , very detailed--------however----------you don't want to make an anti roll bar out of a piece of tubing---------you might want do a little research into the twist properties of the material------
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I agree with Jerry, anti-sway/roll bars are solid stock with material qualities ranging to the high tensile area. That tubing has very little resistance to twisting force, IMO. Looks good, but I don't think it will function as you want.
Not intending to start an argument, but I know that Competition Engineering commonly makes anti-roll bars from 4130 moly tubing, and Hotchkiss has some good design recommendations. Tubular sway bars are common on many factory cars on the road today. Heavy wall 4130 has pretty hairy torsional strength. I agree that tubular is a no-no if there is any bending. However, a properly sized tubular roll bar with the type of links that Steve has shown is definitely usable. Check the following link:
http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_fi...ons162file.pdf
Wow!! I stand corrected!! Thanks for posting, Jack. It's always good to learn something!Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Roger, after 6 years of engineering school, I may be too old to "engineer," but I know where to look. ;) However, I don't know the wall thickness on Steve's bar, so I can't make a judgment on it's effectiveness.
Yep, I didn't do six years, but I quickly realized that the years at school taught us how to analyze, and where to look for answers along the way. I relied too much on the old approach and did not bother to look for new alternatives. I bet Steve has already looked at his tubing characteristics.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Steve's tubular anti roll bar will work fine as an anti roll device for acceleration in a straight line---to off set torque roll like on a drag strip --straightline acceleration---
It is not the ideal answer to any chassis roll from a cornering application---If it doesn't break the tube or links , it will tear the mounts loose from the frame member------
Most arb on modern vehicles resist roll by the bending of the bar itself--------
It looks kind of light, It's going to be awesome to see it in application!
Worst case, it breaks, and gets rebuilt or replaced.
Without innovation, you have stagnation.
Why not Jerry, its chrome moly tubeQuote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
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Roger its quite common place to make anti roll bars in chrome moly tube, I've made them in it for years, it works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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You are correct Jack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
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Yeah, Steve, I'm a bit red faced by my comment :o, especially after Jack posting his info from Hotchkiss. Should have known you'd already done your homework on the material, but it looked "light", and then Jerry's comment.... Sorry for the bother :oQuote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Thanks for the chart Jack! Been wondering how to figure the rating of a hollow bar vs. solid. Not near as much difference as I figured there would be!
Great work as always, Steve! Hope your cylinder heads arrive soon, waiting eagerly for the maiden blast on the car!!!!!!
Jerry, did you even bother to read through the excellent technical paper from Hotchkiss that Jack posted? http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_fi...ons162file.pdf In particular the statement on Page 4?Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I would think that Porsche is interested in a little more than straight line acceleration, but you might also look at Pages 5, 6 and 7 where they point out that by changing wall thickness they effectively tune the stiffness for the application, while still shaving weight compared to the solid bar being replaced.:HMMM:;)Quote:
Companies, such as, Porsche, Daimler-Chrysler, Ford and others have started to include hollow anti-roll bars on factory produced cars and trucks.
Steve, again thanks for the lesson in fabrication, and also to both you and Jack for the lesson in advances in material application. Another fine piece of work on a fantastic car! Like DaveS said, hope those heads arrive soon! Looking forward to a video!!:D:D
Wellllllllllllllllllllll---------------
A few thoughts for you------------
Anti roll bars are a cover up for a suspension system that has short comings in certain areas of travel --------
Any suspension component must transfer/resist/anchor a unwanted force and to do so will be detrimental to the vehicle in its primary function-----------
A tube compared to a solid bar has certain properties because of the added surface(internal+external) I don't recall the physical law/principle, but it gets a lot of discussion at various times-------
Choices of materials and design in production vehicles comes down to bottom line $$$$$, not necessarily prime choice of methods/materials(production arb(anti roll bar) are generally mounted in soft rubber bushings mainly for forgiveablebility---so as there won't be a sudden transfer of force that could get excessive to mount points----------