The only rust free car on the planet
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The only rust free car on the planet
:lol::lol::lol:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Steve,if you wouldn't mind,could you explain where all the tooling and equipment started that you have.For me anyways,it is like reading and watching a episode of the TV program "The Shade Tree Mechanic" with all the stuff you have to work with.Love the way you apply that.Very talented.
Not quite sure what you mean Gary, most of my power equipment is old from the 60's when they made machines to last.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gary
I guess I am curious if you where a master machinist at some point because you have such a eye for making the parts I admire so much.The shop you are working in was built up over the last number of yrs and you knew what machines to buy because you have been building cars for what number of yrs.The back story of how you built up the shop and equipment.
Steve, that bolt end is pretty neat, but I'm reallllllyyy disappointed in you none the less. I would expect that you'd have figured out how to engrave your naked lady logo on each as the topper! Come on man, you've set a very high bar.....now reach for it!!!!!!!!;):D
I don't think one of Bob's beauties would grace any vehicle!:eek:
Steve I'm curious where you learned all this stuff too! And I agree with you 100%, that when you can find pre-70's machinery your buying an airloom piece that will last a long time, unless the words Lucus appear anywhere on it!!!!!:LOL::D:3dSMILE::p
http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/P...29-255tn_1.jpghttp://www.mez.co.uk/smoke2.jpghttp://www.rowenashores.com/img/lucassw.gif
Yikes! Man it seems like you both are not feeling good. Don't know how you work in the shop when you are feeling ill! I hope Sue gets better soon :) and you too.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
We are good. No problems here at all. Hope your health keeps on the upswing. Willy's is looking great as usual:):) Don Jr.
Its infuriating,isnt it,Gary..:D:D The guy has so many little tricks up his sleeve,its just mind boggling..:LOL: Its good to see the pix,though,cos at least we can folow what hes up to,,and try to copy him..:LOL:Steve,,you are inspirational..(there,thats my second big word for the day)..
Steve(US),,havent seen a can of Lucas wiring harness smoke for years...I think Johnboy has one for his AC Cobra...;);):D
Well without this becoming as long as War & Peace here goes :LOL:
I left school and started a precision toolmakeing apprenticeship, after 3 years i realised it wasn't for me, then i joined JW Automotive as a trainee, they were a race car company that ran the GT40's for Ford that came 1st, 2nd & 3rd at the Le Man 24 hrs race. after that i persued my interest in becoming a porn star.
Equipment wise i add as i need it, when i see something the right price i snap it up, i like to buy machines from the 60's as they are cheap and are extremely well built and generally are still very accurate.
A lot of what i do is made with a 4.5" angle grinder and hand tools though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gary
Bob you guys are way OTT with stuff :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Interesting sentence structure............................:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/shagging.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Langy is taking on a new meaning! :)
Seriously gt40's are about as cool as they come! Le Mans is one of my favorite movies with Steve McQueen.
Mostly bits & pieces done today, nothing worth a picture but i did get my headers done in white and wanted to see what they looked like so bolted them on with a few bolts, Its just the look i wanted.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/12bcc642.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov4th20111.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov4th20112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov4th20114.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov4th20115.jpg
nice looking set of tubes on their Steve! The three bar on the end of the cannon really looks good! Know what you mean on the bits and pieces work, sometimes a guy can work on a project all week and it looks like you went backwards on the progress!!!!!
Exactly how i felt today Dave, I managed to clear quite a few small jobs off the list and at teatime it looked like I had done very little !!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I thought it was Cider time!
I would like to know how your going to keep them white ...Not fire the engine???? They do look good
These have been on Sues car 8 years Charlie, I just freshen them up every couple of years.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...U/SNV18008.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
I was sat in the drivers seat the other night and realised i couldn't reach the dash when strapped in, I needed the important switches closer to me.
I solved this with a glassfibre box which was moulded off a washing sachet container.
I aim to mount this with some stainless tube between the seats and run the wiring through the tube so its hidden.
I thought a nice finned top plate to hold the switches might be nice, thickest bit of aluminium plate i had was 1/2" so a quick call to my mate Allan and he had some 3/4", He also kindly offered to mill the slots in it to save me some time.
First the 3/4" aluminium plate was cut.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...LLYS/ally1.jpg
Next it was marked out and drilled and counterbored.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...LLYS/ally2.jpg
Next the grooves were ball milled into the plate.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...LLYS/ally3.jpg
Next to get sloping sides on the fins the plate was tilted at 14 degrees and the sides of the fins got a pass with the cutter.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...LLYS/ally4.jpg
What we ended up with.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/154f923a.jpg
Next the shape was marked out and the excess cut off.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/3682b800.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/60c53055.jpg
The ends of the fins were then curved.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/c7f5d717.jpg
Next job was to remove all the sharp edges and replace with nice radius's and give it a quick polish to see how it looked.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov7th20111.jpg
The original switch knobs were not gonna cut the mustard so new ones were made from some 1" stainless round bar.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov7th20116.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov7th20114.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov7th20115.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov7th20117.jpg
:cheers:
Simply amazing Steve what you and your good friend Allan can turn out. As Steve in the USA said, that damn bar is so high now, I could hang myself from it !!!!
Yep, old Steve could teach us all a few tricks. I love the olds finned valve cover look. Been trying to find valve covers like that for my 460 ford~!
I'm getting alot of ideas from your posts.
Nice knobs and plate.
This is my method on how to keep a painted finish on headers.
Basically the painted finish (using hi-temp paint) has to be baked and most of the time the
oven is too small.
Step 1 - Remove headers from vehicle, strip finish off headers and clean thoroughly. Remove
any grease or oil.
Step 2 - Paint headers with a name brand high temperature paint such as VHT.
Step 3 - Reinstall headers, be careful as not to get any grease, oil or dirt on painted surfaces.
Step 4 - Fire up the motor, run it for about 1 to 2 minutes.
Step 5 - Let headers cool.
Step 6 - Repeat steps 4 and 5 four to six times. The more the better.
The key points are;
Headers must be absolutely clean before painting.
Painted surfaces must be clean before the baking process.
Do not let the headers get too hot while baking.
To maintain your newly painted headers keep them clean, use soap and water (while cool).
The paint job can be touched up but the new paint has to be also baked.
Old Steve !!! ya cheeky bugger :LOL: Just kidding Steve, I guess i am old these days :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Thanks Whip, fairly simple stuff really, you just have to let your mind wander.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Had to go to the tyre place to get a customers tyres fitted and Crumble had got my tubes for me (thanks John) plus I had been itching to get my Radir tyres on my ET rims.
I had a slight clearence problem on the inner arch as these tyres bulge out a fair bit so I replaced the wheel studs with some longer Strange Eng studs and fitted a 1" spacer either side. I don't have a problem running spacers.
I'm still undecided about the whitewalls, I may turn them around.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/2aaffb65.jpg
Had to cut a fair bit out of the rear arches to get them on and they still need blending & fettling which i will sort at bodywork time. Its got a bit more attitude now.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov9th20118.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/d6cd1eac.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...S/4d9a6daf.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov9th20114.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov9th20112.jpg
white walls in
Steve no offense intended, just a complement to your vast knowledge base! The white walls look very cool, and go well with everything else. I may run into a similar issue with my rear tires and fenders, so the spacer idea sounds good to me if it would work on the rear hubs of my old Ford.
I'm a fan of white walls but the jury is out on this one until I see the complete project after paint etc.,as I know that old gasser look will not be correct with white walls but it may suit your finished car. I so want those wheels though,awesome.
I suppose the wide whites fit the style of the car, but personally I didn't like them the first time they were popular......
Steve,
That switch panel you and Alan made looks great (more like fantastic):D
You know I think I like the whitewall slicks.....Will know better when your color is sprayed on the car though. Lookin great. Awesome progress:toocool:
Don Jr.
Whip imagine this but with blue flake.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...stDrags031.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Cheers Don, yes i'm gonna wait until the paint is done and decide then, I kinda like the whitewalls too.
Is the old fella ok as havn't seen him on here for a couple of days ???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Blue
After seeing the blue car with the whitewalls, I really like them!
Pops is fine...........He has been on his other forum this week I think called "Club Kitty Cat". :LOL:
He loves those cats. The cats around our shop get better treatment than we do!
Yes Steve,that would be absolutely gorgeous but I will leave the final decision up to you, but I give it a tick for white walls.
Met Carl at Heathrow to pickup my front wheels, Carl had already started on the disc conversion but not finished it so i have a little machining left to do.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201119.jpg
The disc is positioned on the wheel hub by an adaptor that also holds the oil seal. 5 holes need to be drilled through the disc, adaptor and into the wheel hub, these will be slightly counterbored and tapped 5/16" UNC, a coarse thread is used as the magnesium is very soft and i fine thread could possibly strip, the studs are fitted into the counterbore so that the force is taken by the shank of the ARP studs I am using and not the threaded section.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...01110Large.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v10th20113.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201110.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v10th20116.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v10th20115.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v10th20117.jpg
The spindle is an early ford part & bearing setup is normal taper bearings with a standard size oil seal.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ov10th2011.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v10th20112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201111.jpg
The calipers & disc is from a modern car and the caliper has to be fairly small to clear the wheel, clearences are very tight !!!
Custom caliper brackets have to be made and removing a wheel means removing a caliper first so this has to be taken into account when making the brackets. 3/8" UNF hi tensile bolts hold the spindle to the internally threaded hexagon bar caliper spacers.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201118.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201117.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...10th201115.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20118.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20117.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20119.jpg
The caliper plates are made in 1/4" stainless plate, Securing bolts are hi tensile countersunk setscrews that have been modified slightly.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...11th201113.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...11th201114.jpg
Heres the completed setup.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20116.jpg
Clearances are a little on the tight side !!!
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20113.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...v11th20115.jpg
.
Those wheels are going to look realy great on the Willys. Good thing you have the equipment to do that in house...
Thanks Charlie, I might just polish the rim but keep the spokes natural finish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher