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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #451
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    OK, my time was not wasted after all. I just checked and the ready-made hood retainers are on backorder. I'll go ahead and use these.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #452
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    DARN!!! Duh! I really feel dumb. It never occurred to me to look for these stupid things online. I could have saved a day's work! Now I have to decide whether to use these or get those pretty polished stainless ones...
    You did a mighty fine job of making them, I'd use em if for no other reason than that! Nice work!
    johnboy and rspears like this.

  3. #453
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Thanks. I agree and I decided to go ahead. I checked 3 different outlets for those things and they were all on back order. I'm not one who likes waiting on someone else, so forge ahead with what I have! With the hood in place and centered, I marked the tape where the center hinge goes. At the cowl end I drilled the lip and installed #10-24 nut-serts (see pic). At the front I just drilled holes and used nuts on the inside (no pic).

    For the latch mechanisms I copied the ones I made for my Model-A. They've been in use for a little over 15 years with no issues. The pics below show the latch in closed position and an open hood close-up of the "stand-off" made from 1/8 x 3/4 flat steel.

    With the hood on the '32 open on one side, I reached through with a ruler to determine the amount of stand-off needed. Then I did the same with the opposite side. Apparently I did something right when I installed the hood and the strut bars because both sides measured exactly the same! Using 1/8 x 3/4 flat stock again, I bent both ends at 90 degrees to achieve the 9/16 stand-off needed. Then I positioned one of the latches so I could mark the length; it turned out to be 2 inches from the first bend. After cutting, I used the vise and a pair of large channel lock pliers to curl the end slightly so it fit the curvature of the hood. Then I welded the tool box latches to the stand-offs. Although they look like brass, they are actually made of steel and they weld easily.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  4. #454
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    The next step is to attach the stand-offs and latches to the hood. I did this with the hood off the car. It was just a matter of positioning them where I wanted and welding the ends of the stand-offs to the hood. I used a series of overlapping tack-welds here to avoid warping the sheet metal.

    With the hood back on the car, once again I opened one side and reached through with a Sharpie to mark where the hook half of the latch needed to go on the strut bar. I repeated the process on the opposite side. Then I removed the strut bars, one-at-a-time, attached the latch hooks using pop-rivets, and re-installed the bar. With the strut bars back in place, I made some final adjustment on each side by bending the hooks and latches with a screw driver and pliers.

    The next-to-last pic shows the latch from inside in closed position. The final pic shows where the weld penetrated the sheet metal which will be an easy fix; the hood is not warped. It also shows that the latch mechanism is completely hidden from view when the hood is closed.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  5. #455
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I guess it's appropriate to say the "construction phase" is winding down. I'm done with the chassis fabrication and all the major components are in place. I'm down to finalizing some details and the construction/fabrication that's left is all inside. Today I tackled a couple of those small details. First, I wrapped the exhaust pipe, where it passes under the master cylinder, with header wrap. Next, I located and cut the access hole in the floor for the master cylinder. I fabricated a cover for it from a scrap of .060" aluminum and attached it with two sheet metal screws.

    When I was under the car a few days ago bolting the fuel cell and battery tray in place, I noticed that the top of the differential was only about 3/8 inch from the trunk floor. At the ends, the axle housing is over an inch from the frame. So what happens to the floor if/when the rear axle bottoms out on the frame? CRUNCH!! I need floor clearance, so I cut a hole in the trunk floor over the differential. I will make an aluminum cover with a rise in it to alleviate this problem. Yes, I will be raising the back end for additional suspension travel (it settled when I put the body on the frame), but I still need the floor clearance for those inevitable big bumps in the future.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  6. #456
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    I found out with Rita that things definitely do settle. I noticed lately that it sits lower than when I first put it together .The other day when I hit a pretty rough bridge intersection at 60 mph, my front suspension bottomed out, I never had that before. So Yes, travel is a good thing lol.
    Dave Severson likes this.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  7. #457
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    I found out with Rita that things definitely do settle. I noticed lately that it sits lower than when I first put it together .The other day when I hit a pretty rough bridge intersection at 60 mph, my front suspension bottomed out, I never had that before. So Yes, travel is a good thing lol.
    Back in the circle burner days, we would check spring rates on the spring checker once a month or so, after a couple 40 or 50 lap mains it wasn't unusual to have a spring lose 5% of it's rating, on a rough track, we had springs lose 10% on a single night! Torsion bars on the sprint cars do the same.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  8. #458
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    So Yes, travel is a good thing lol.
    And bump stops are not bad, either!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  9. #459
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    I obviously needed to cover the gaping hole I cut in the trunk floor. I stated above that I would make an aluminum cover and that's what I did. Using another piece of .060" aluminum scrap, I cut a rectangle the same width and 3/8 inch longer than the hole. I used a vise and bare hands to bend a gentle curve in the rectangle. The high part of the curve is approximately 1.25 inches above the ends. Using the curve of the panel as a pattern for the shape, I cut out two sides. I left tabs for attaching the sides to the curved panel and also left a 3/4 inch strip on the bottom of each side (see pics) for attaching the finished "hump" to the trunk floor. After shaping and riveting the pieces together, I trimmed the ends and riveted the finished assembly over the hole. I sealed the ends with duct tape. Finally, I relocated the back end of the fuel cell strap to the right about 2 inches and bolted it down again (final pic).
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    Mike P and 36 sedan like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #460
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    will you glass that over?

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