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Thread: Another Build Thread - My '32
          
   
   

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  1. #181
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Finally! Now I put the drive shaft in the chassis and bolt the rear U-joint into the rear end yoke. I clamped a piece of 1/16 x 1" aluminum strap to the truck arm to use as an indicator. (You could use about anything, wooden slat, heavy wire, etc.) If you have one, you could use a dial indicator, but it isn't necessary.

    With the transmission in neutral and one rear wheel off the floor (both wheels if you have a posi rear), I rotate the wheel slowly while watching the shaft. If it's out of alignment (it was... slightly) it will show by touching the indicator on one side, leaving a scratch, and having clearance on the opposite side. Turn the "high" side to the top and rap it with a hammer (Not too hard! It moves fairly easily.). Try to hit it where the yoke and tube come together; hitting just on the tube will dent it and ruin the shaft. Keep turning the wheel/shaft and tapping with the hammer until it's perfect. Take your time - this is the most critical part of the entire process. You may need to move the indicator a few times to get a new scratch line. When you have it as near perfect as possible, put a tack weld opposite that first one. Now check it again. If anything moved, adjust it again with the indicator and hammer. If/when it's perfect put a third tack weld somewhere between the first two and check again. It should be good to go by now, but if anything moved fix it. If you have 4 tack-welds on it and it's still straight and true, weld it solid all the way around.

    The last step is replacing the balance weight we removed earlier. After reshaping it a bit with a hammer and vise, I aligned it with the scuff line I made earlier and put 3 small tack-welds on it. We can call this one done.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  2. #182
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    NTFDAY - Ken, I was busy typing the next post when you asked, but I think I answered your question there. If I have trouble with the cups falling off I wrap them with tape.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  3. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson View Post
    NTFDAY - Ken, I was busy typing the next post when you asked, but I think I answered your question there. If I have trouble with the cups falling off I wrap them with tape.

    Thank you for the reply, why I hadn't thought of that is beyond me.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  4. #184
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
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    I brought my drive shaft to local machine shop to get shorted. I marked where the weights went, but then I lost the weights. As long as I stay 65 or under it runs smooth. It's on the winter list to fix.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  5. #185
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    nice work there and nice write up! The first one I cut way back when I stuck the drive shaft in the chop saw and figured out why you don't do that real quick.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
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  6. #186
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Believe me, Ryan, I have done things like that before, too. I was lucky with drive shafts, though. Years ago I saw a picture in a magazine of a drive shaft being made and there was a picture of the end yoke. All I had to do then was figure out how to get it apart. I had no idea about the balance weights and getting the U-joints in phase. Probably more luck than knowledge back then. I cut that first one with a hacksaw, welded it with a stick welder and it worked fine. The rest, as they say, is history.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  7. #187
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    J I love the write up on the drive shaft! Very sound information and well written.

    Years ago I started setting aside drive shafts as cores just to have on hand when I did various swaps (I’ve probably got 50-75 in the back shed). A lot of times I had something on hand that would fit with no mods, just the right combination of U Joints. Something I learned over the years was to use a paint pen to mark the end of the drive shaft with the U joint number so I didn’t have to go thru the measuring to figure out what joint I had used (especially if it was a conversion joint).


    I used to have a local shop here that would shorten a shaft for under $100 and it was just easier to send a drive shaft in to him than building my own. Unfortunately like a lot of things the guy was older and retired several years ago. The guy he sold the shop to was pretty much incompetent and he went out of business in a year. So I was back to building my own shafts…..something I had done years before.

    I do mine a little different than you do. I’m one of the guys who uses a big tubing/pipe cutter to shorten the shaft. You’re absolutely right that it “squeezes the tube and reverse-flares the cut end”. The trick I found is to go slow with the cuts which minimizes the squeezing and then using a die grinder to get rid of the flare. I prefer the cutter as it leaves a square 90 degree cut (provided the blades are tight and sharp. Then when the yoke is hammered in and the shoulder seats to the shaft you’re almost assured the shaft is straight (assuming you are using a straight donor shaft to begin with). I usually try to start with a shaft that has no balance weights if I can find one. All I can say is that I’ve been real lucky doing it this way.

    If it doesn’t vibrate when I drive it I call it good, and fortunately (at this point anyway) there is now a good drive line shop in Tucson who can straighten and balance for me at a reasonable cost.

    The one that I'll hopefully find out how well I did with is in the 37 Dodge. I figure with the 4.56 gears it should really be humming at 75 MPH. Any issues with it being straight and balanced should show up real quick




    .



    .
    NTFDAY, DennyW, stovens and 1 others like this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  8. #188
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    Luckily I have a really good competent drive line shop that I take mine to. The last one I had shortened was $90. I can't mess with it for that and then I know I have it balanced too. I have shortened a few drive shafts but then took them to have finished. These tricks sure help though.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  9. #189
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    Thanks. I wrote this for those who want or need to do their own. Where I live, for instance, it can take several days to get a shaft made or shortened. There is only one automotive machine shop in town and they stay pretty busy. Get in line and wait... and I hate waiting. If I'm not stopping to take pictures every step of the way I can knock one out in about an hour. In the time it takes me to drive down there, explain what I want, and get the work order, I already have it done.
    Mike P, NTFDAY, 34_40 and 2 others like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #190
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    Some times I take all the shops around me for granted. I live by Rock Valley Ia, and I've been told by more than one source, more steel gets shipped in to RV than the whole state of South Dakota. Not sure if it's true but it could easy be. Lot's of machine shops, production shops, and black smiths around our area. You still have to wait in line though.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  11. #191
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    thanks for the good tech

  12. #192
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    Thanks for that info Jim. It never would have even dawned on me to to shorten my own drive shaft. Now I'm planning on doing it to my T.


    I'm keeping my fingers crossed, hoping none of us Florida folks get hammered too hard by that little storm coming this weekend!
    Steve

  13. #193
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    Stay safe Steve.. we'll be keeping good thoughts for ya!
    Last edited by 34_40; 09-08-2017 at 07:42 PM.
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  14. #194
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    For sure, stay safe guys and gals!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #195
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    That stupid storm is going to cause trouble for a lot of folks. At this point (11:03 Sat morning) the projected path has been moved to the west coast of Florida. Looks like St. Pete is right in the path. Good luck Steve. If you haven't evacuated already, hunker down and hold on!
    stovens likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

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