Another Build Thread - My '32

[J. Robinson]

I suppose you could. They are only about 34 inches long, though, so that could be an issue if you are trying to reach across a wide frame. The splines are the same on both ends, so whatever you use on one end you could duplicate for the opposite end.

[J. Robinson]

The last piece I need to finalize this front suspension is a panhard bar. The torsion bars do not keep "stretch tension" or preload on the shackles like a leaf spring does, so some other means of keeping the axle centered is required. Also, I plan to cross steer this car, so some means of positive centering would be required anyway. I will keep the bar fairly short in this application for two reasons. First, and most importantly, the attachment points need to be located so that the torsion arms can be removed/replaced without interference and, secondly, so that it's not readily visible when the car is finished. The common practice of panhard bar installation is to keep the bar as long as possible so it has the least geometric influence on the suspension as it moves up and down. I can get away with a short bar here because front end travel is fairly limited on this type of car.

OK, the first task is to fabricate the bracketry needed for this installation. The bracket for the beam axle is simply a piece of 1/4 inch plate with a 1/2 inch hole. The (grade 8) bolt will be inserted through the hole and welded in place. This piece is then welded to the back side of the axle near the left frame rail, but inboard far enough to allow torsion arm removal.

The bracket for the frame will attach to the right side of the front crossmember just inboard of the torsion arm. It is designed to reach down far enough so that the panhard bar will be parallel to the ground. Notice it has two holes - that is so, if I ever need to, I can raise the front end and still keep the panhard bar parallel to the ground. This bracket is also made from 1/4 inch plate and the little gusset pieces are made so that it will fit straight on the tapered end of the crossmember. I welded the gusset pieces onto the bracket first and then tacked the whole piece in place.

With the brackets in place I then center the axle, measure the spread between the brackets, and fabricate the bar. I use the same process for fab'ing the bar as I did the front radius rods; thread inserts welded into the ends of appropriate length tubing.

OK, with all the pieces in place I can now blow this apart and finalize the welding. When that is done I will roll it over and move on to the rear suspension.

[Hotrod46]

Nice work Jim. The torsion bars look good. Your car is second one I've seen that (that I remember) uses salvage yard bars. Most I've seen use sprint car parts. I think I remember one in a mag years ago that used VW parts.

[J. Robinson]

I've looked at sprint car stuff - too expensive for my school teacher pension... My first C-Cab had VW rear torsion bars (pic on page 6) on the front. That car was built in 1976 and is still on the road in Huntsville, Alabama. I also built a cross-torsion bar suspension for the rear of an Anglia (about '78 or '79) using VW rear torsion bars, but I don't know where that one is now... When I built my second C-Cab in 1989 I found the Nissan bars and have been using them since. The Nissan bars are about 6 or 8 inches longer than the VWs and the spline pieces are all removable whereas the VW bars anchor part is welded into the belly pan. This is the 7th application where I have used torsion bars (4th for myself). I really like the adjustability and ride quality they provide.

Several years ago a friend of mine used the complete cross-torsion front end from a '70s Chrysler LeBaron in a '38 Dodge pickup. It rode and drove beautifully and the ride height was adjustable with a wrench. If I was building a fat-fendered car I would consider using that setup.

[figure8]

I'm anxious to see how you do your steering. Looks like things could be a little tight. I know you have it figured out since you have done it all before. Thank you for a great tech thread

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, Figure8. It's my pleasure. Writing this thread kind of helps keep me on task.

Actually, I do have an idea what I want to do, but I kind of work out the specifics as I go. Yes, the torsion bars do present a couple of challenges to the placement of some components, but I think the ride quality makes it worthwhile. On my coupe I used the steering box from a late '70s Toyota 4WD pickup (some early coupe build pics below). It has a long sector shaft so the body of the gearbox is mounted just above the torsion bar, but the Pittman arm is below it. Those are a bit scarce now days, but I have a steering box from a 1980 Corvette that is almost dimensionally identical to that Toyota, so it's a possibility. The other possibility is a Unisteer style rack and pinion. I can't positively determine which is more practical until I have the engine mounted. Then I will use whichever fits best. I'm using a big block this time, so it may be different than my coupe. Stay tuned...

[Dickster]

Jim, I had a uni-steer rack on my black deuce. it is nice but the big drawback is that it has such a slow turning radius, kinda like the old choppers with the log springers.

[J. Robinson]

The next items on my part fabrication list are the steering arms. Remember, I'm using Speedway Motors spindles and 4 inch dropped forged axle. Speedway has steering arms, but... One set says "not for use with dropped axles". The other ones are flame cut from 1/2 inch steel, but they look like they are only dropped about 3/4 inch. So, I'll need to fabricate some arms that will drop below the frame and torsion bars (I want this thing "in the weeds"!).

I happened to have a piece of 2 1/2 x 3 angle iron with 5/16 wall thickness. That should be plenty hefty enough. To begin I took some measurements on my Speedway spindles. I needed to know the hole spread and how much clearance would be needed to get around the kingpin boss. With the dimensions in hand, I was able to make a poster board pattern. I also made an additional piece (add on) for the right side so I could put a second hole in it for the cross-steer drag link. If it turns out that I don't need the second hole, I can cut it off later. Using the pattern, I marked and drilled the holes and then marked the pieces for cutting with my oxy-acetylene torch.

[J. Robinson]

The next step, of course, is fire up the torch and cut the steering arms out. They really look ugly at this point, but we all know what's next - grinding.., and grinding.., and grinding. Once they were starting to look fairly decent it was time for trial fitting. I found a few little places where I had to relieve some interference for final fitment. Once everything was fitting properly I gave the arms a coat of primer to inhibit rust and also so they would show up better in the pictures.

Last thing I did was make a temporary tie rod so I can confirm clearances, etc. This tie rod is temporary because later I will weld bungs on the holes and ream them with a tapered reamer so I can use conventional Ford style tie rod ends and a slightly larger diameter tie rod.

[34_40]

Thanks so much Jim.
Following along has been informative and fun.
Torsion bar suspension isn't the norm for a hot rod, so kudos to thinking outside the box.

[jerry clayton]

Since your talking about steering boxes----------on some race cars( Prostockers) I have used the flex haft from I believe a Pinto instead of U-Joints, and also I might add I believe some were also used on some BMWs?-takes up a lot less space around exhaust, oil dry sump pumps, etc

[J. Robinson]

Thanks for the tip, Jerry. I had forgotten about those flexible shafts and that's a good idea. Pintos are as scarce as clams peckers around here (they all got used up in the Ministock wars at the local race tracks), but BMWs are plentiful in the local salvage yards. I'll look for them.

[Driver50x]

Any progress on the 32 lately Jim?

[figure8]

will you be using torsion bars in the back?

[J. Robinson]

Unfortunately, no progress to report. I got temporarily sidetracked helping my son with his project.

Just before Christmas he traded his '31 Model-A sedan for a '50 Mercury. It's an old survivor custom with a 3" chopped top, shaved door handles, frenched headlights, etc. During its lifetime someone (probably multiple different owners) spliced wires, cut stuff out, spliced some more until the wiring was crap and nothing worked but the headlights and one taillight. There was evidence of an under-dash fire at some point in its history (melted wires). So far we have installed a new steering column, completely rewired it, installed all new gauges, replaced the fuel sender, changed the alternator, and given it a "temporary" satin black paint job. We still need to go through the carb to get it running right and then it will be roadworthy. The good news is it has a nice green & white Naugahyde interior and a fresh 350 Chevy engine & trans. Hopefully we'll finish his repairs next week and then I'll be back on the Deuce.

My next step will be installing the rear suspension. I am still trying to decide if I want to use a 4-bar setup or a "truck arm" system like my coupe has. I have all the components for both...