That's better.
Looking good.
Printable View
That's better.
Looking good.
I usually can only do body work for so long, then I've got to get some primer on it just to see how things are coming along!!! I end up doing the whole thing a couple times with high build primer and lots more blocking!!!! Looks a bunch better, Falcon! Shooting primer is the easiest part of the job, but it sure looks like you got a lot done when you shoot it!!!!!
There's definitely a lot to do before it's painted; the plan is to wet sand the firewall and rear wheelwells, go ahead and paint them, and then mount it back on the frame. I can start figuring out things like running wiring, wipers, dash layout, etc, while Kyle is working on the decklid, doors, hood, fenders, etc and getting them ready for primer.
You have done some really nice work on this. I'm not looking forward to the firewall/floor work on mine, but seeing what you've been able to do gives me hope.
"....We were taping the body last night and talking about what life was like when this car was coming off the assembly line....."
You know it's funny, when I look at my 37 I sometimes have the same thoughts. All the history the poor old thing has seen to get here.
You know it's funny, when I look at my 37 I sometimes have the same thoughts. All the history the poor old thing has seen to get here.[/QUOTE]
No kidding, Mike. if they could talk, they'd have some stories to tell. Everything I've seen you put together is exceptionally well done. I'm sure your floor on your 37 will be the same. That's going to be one B A ride when your done.
Firewall and wheelwells done; ready to go back on the chassis as soon as I finish plumbing the brake and fuel lines.
You've got it lookin' great Falconvan. All the work is paying off.
Nice work Falcon. I may have to pick your brain on layers and sanding in between. Looks great!
That does look good, so many people have no idea about how much work is involved in getting them to this point.
You're right about that, not to mention the $$$! One of my daughters asked me how come it's usually old gray headed dudes driving the nice finished street rods. I guess we're the only ones who've been working long enough to get our finances in a position to build one.
Time to clean up the floor, add some seam sealer and paint, and cut a hole for the shifter before it goes on the frame.
:LOL::LOL: ".... One of my daughters asked me how come it's usually old gray headed dudes driving the nice finished street rods....."
Finances, time, experience, I think it’s called paying our dues. Besides I have more forehead how than hair.
We set the body back on the frame and bolted 'er down over the weekend.
Plumbing is done and I hung the fenders on it with a couple of bolts just to see what it looks like.
Lookin real good Falcon. Keep at it!
The coupe is looking great Falcon, very nice work! Another reason it's all us grey haired types with the neat cars is that we've learned how important PATIENCE is on a build!!!!!!
Falcon,,thats looking nice..Amazing isnt it,,you hang a few panels back on,and its appearance changes...quite dramatically,sometimes.
Thanks all! Can anyone recommend a good gauge restoration service they've used that can restore my gauges and modify my speedo to work with the GM trans?
Looking really good, Falcon! On the gauges, seems like every time I've seen this question the answer is Classic Instruments Welcome to Classic Instruments I've not used them myself, but have seen them recommended many times. I think the key is that you want them restored cosmetically, but converted to work with modern sending units, and the speedo to work specifically with your tranny output. Worth a call, at least.
falconvan,
I had a really good experience with John Wolf & Co.
::JOHN WOLF & CO.INC ::Willioghby, restoration of speedometer, tachometer, Automobiles ,Aircraft ,Boats ,Custom Instrumentation Gas Tank Sending Units, Mechanical Temperature Gauges
Excellent workmanship and superb customer service.
Good luck!
PS The Plymouth is lookin' good!
Thanks for the tips! That's one fine looking Plymouth in your avatar, how about a round of pictures so we can see the whole thing?
The tough part about building a car you didn't take apart is figuring out how it all goes back together. I've got parts from several different cars so I've spent some time this week going through them to pick out what I want to use and doing some trial assembly. Here's the bumpers and fillers panels, and the dash. I also think I'm going to do a recessed license plate where the big third brake light used to be on the decklid. Right now we're trying to make one good decklid from two junk ones.
Thanks for the compliment. Here is a link to my post (with pictures) in the "New Members Sign In" area:
http://www.clubhotrod.com/new-member...-checking.html
Very nice, Ken! Thanks for sharing; i was thinking of getting rid of the big Plymouth trunk emblem but after seeing yours I think it needs to stay.
Nice Plymouth Ken, and welcome to here.
I kept the trunk emblem/3rd brake light on my '48 DeSoto, but did eliminate the trunk handle and license plate light.
I wanted to post a picture, but can't figure it out. Anyone here help me with pictures, but keep in mind, I am very computer challenged.
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...CF0766_JPG.jpg
Looks great, Jack. I sent you an email on posting pictures, i hope it helps. We've got the trunk skin off the inner panel and are working on patching the rust at the bottom. My Wheel Vintique wheels came in today; 15x8 for the back and 15x7 for the front. Not sure on tire size yet. If thinking a 235/15 for the front and a 275/15 for the rear. Also I got the LS1 engine valley cover that eliminates the knock sensors.
How much does a set of steelies cost? I am considering changing out my 15x6 Boyds, if I could sell at a decent price.
On my old DeSoto I have 195/65 front, 245/60 rear. Fenders are full. Have to be careful of sharp turns, front drags, can't get my hands between fender and tires on the rear.
Jackie
OK, stand by. I'm going to try again to download a picture of rear of DeSoto with emblem/3rd brake light, minus trunk handle and license plate light. I got it to work in another thread, but don't know how or why?Attachment 50526
I think it worked, but I don't believe I did it the right way. Can I continue to pratice, then totally delete the post?
Thank You or your patience with an old, computer challenged man.
Jackie
Looks like it worked just fine, although you might want to shrink your pictures down to less than 150kb. i think this one is about 400kb. I bought my steelies from Summit racing, I paid $280 for all four.
I'm trying to stay busy despite the heat. It don't look like it's going to let up anytime soon so we're all just trying to live with it. You get used to it after a while, just sweat like a dog and take a lot of showers.
This week I pulled all the parts out of the attic storage and went through all the chrome to pick out the best of what was there. I stared cleaning up and painting POR-15 on everything that's not getting body color paint; insides of the fenders, the bottom of the bumper filler panels, bumper brackets, etc.
You're a tough one. Hang in.
Here in Souhtside Virginia we got a little break today, high of 83. Tomorrow back in the 90s, and continuing to rise every day next week.
Won't be long, we'll be bitchin' about the cold :HMMM:.
Man, 83 sounds incredible. We havent seen a day under 95 in about 3 weeks and the humidity keeps the heat index above 100. Just checked the seven day forecast; more of the same all the way through Friday. Not much you can do but adjust.
You're right, though. It'll be cold before we know it.
83 was great, but as I said, short lived. We have been getting the same hot, humid stuff y'all have.
Adjust we will, just keep on that '48, your dedication is admirable, and can't wait to see the finished product.
Jackie
I heard it is so hot in Mo. that the ice cream (or should that be I-scream?;))TRUCKS were melting.
".... I stared cleaning up and painting POR-15 on everything that's not getting body color paint; insides of the fenders, the bottom of the bumper filler panels, bumper brackets, etc......."
That's usually one part of a project I dread and am happy when I'm done with it, but it sure is nice to pick them up all cleaned and ready to put on when you're ready for them.
Bob, I've seen that picture before; it is pretty funny! Apparently the wave is supposed to break Saturday with a high of ONLY 91. I'll have to get my thermals underwear out for it.
You're right, Mike. Sitting there for hours with an air grinder is rough on the back but I cant bring myself to put rusty parts back on, even if you wont be able to see them. The look of a clean, painted undercarrige is worth the effort.
Ok, the deck lid is finally coming together after a lot of work. While Kyle's taking care of that mess I started looking at what to do with the doors. The sides and top fit great but the lower edge stuck out pst the body line and I was all out of hinge adjustment. Since I had to do some minor repair anyway on the door bottom anyway, I sliced it about 1/8" wide from end to end on the bottom, pulled it together with a clamp, and welded it together. It came out much better.
This is the outer skin from one decklid, the inner support from another, and a whole lot of patching. Still a ways to go but at least it's all in one piece. I painted the insides of both before we put them together. Also Im planning on one piece windows so I cut out all the vent window supports and patched in the factory lock hole. It'll have locking handles when Im done because the factory locks wont work with the bear claw latches.
Coming along great...now it's about time for all those little things that eat up soooooooooo many hours!!!! The side windows are gonna look kewl and will leave a lot of "experts" wondering what's different, too!!! Some of them fun things I enjoy doing too!
Wow. Looks like your coming right along on your build! Going to look great!
David
Thanks, all. I debated about tackling these one piece windows, this is new territory for me. It's a Hagan kit and the instructions look pretty good so we're going to give it the old college try.
As far as the handles, there's serveral different styles of reproduction handles on Ebay that lock. I havent picked a specific one yet but the late 30's Ford ones look pretty good. I just have to figure out how to make the handle fit the Plymouth trim plate that it mounts to. What kind of locking system did you end up going with?