Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by roadster32

These are the idler components, I took a pic of the bearing number which might be handy for someone ding similar, dims are 52mmOD. 25mmID, 15mm wide

What are these mm things you speak of?

Very nice work, by the way!

Originally Posted by stovens

Very nice!You are a talented Gentleman!

Gentleman might be taking it a bit far Steve

Did you need dual belts??????????? finding matched length belts for proper tension is difficult and these days since production cars use serpinteen belts is going to be almost impossible------- but nice machine work

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Did you need dual belts??????????? finding matched length belts for proper tension is difficult and these days since production cars use serpinteen belts is going to be almost impossible------- but nice machine work

You may of missed the reason why Jerry but I wanted an old Crager look so yes dual vee belts is what I wanted, personally I don't see a problem picking up vee belts as there are scores of places that sell them.
Lots of the guys are running dual belt drives without any problems.

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Originally Posted by roadster32

You may of missed the reason why Jerry but I wanted an old Crager look so yes dual vee belts is what I wanted, personally I don't see a problem picking up vee belts as there are scores of places that sell them.
Lots of the guys are running dual belt drives without any problems.

I don't think you'll have any problem, Steve. Many, many industrial machines run multiple v-belts, and manufacturing tolerances have actually improved a lot over the years with the major suppliers. For example, Gates changed their manufacturing process almost 35 years ago to make their V80 series belts meet or exceed the specified tolerances for "matched set" belts, but if one is worried about it they can still be special ordered as "Matched Set Belts". If you want to go with a better quality, like a belt with aramid tensile cords that stretch very little, they require a match tolerance that is tighter than the RMA standard. Even then, V-belts with aramid cords (such as the Gates Predator) are matched by selecting belts with a single punch code. I'd say you're good to go, and beautiful work, as usual!

Can I bother you with a lathe question? You told me once before, but I think it was in a PM that was long ago deleted and with CRS I don't trust memory. What's the minimum spindle bore that you recommend for a general purpose machine, and can you explain your reasoning? Sorry to be a bother, and I swear that I'll commit it to memory this time....

Roger-lathe info---------get one with spindle bore big enough that you can use a 5c collect set thru it--------
Mine is a Pratt & Whitney off a early 40s battleship------


And thanks for update on v belts

Originally Posted by rspears

I don't think you'll have any problem, Steve. Many, many industrial machines run multiple v-belts, and manufacturing tolerances have actually improved a lot over the years with the major suppliers. For example, Gates changed their manufacturing process almost 35 years ago to make their V80 series belts meet or exceed the specified tolerances for "matched set" belts, but if one is worried about it they can still be special ordered as "Matched Set Belts". If you want to go with a better quality, like a belt with aramid tensile cords that stretch very little, they require a match tolerance that is tighter than the RMA standard. Even then, V-belts with aramid cords (such as the Gates Predator) are matched by selecting belts with a single punch code. I'd say you're good to go, and beautiful work, as usual!

Can I bother you with a lathe question? You told me once before, but I think it was in a PM that was long ago deleted and with CRS I don't trust memory. What's the minimum spindle bore that you recommend for a general purpose machine, and can you explain your reasoning? Sorry to be a bother, and I swear that I'll commit it to memory this time....

I would look for the biggest spindle bore you can find Roger, mine is 1.75" which is a good size but still can't get 2" bar in
I wasn't worried about the belts to be honest as already sorted them out with my local bearing specialist.

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Started making the blower crank hub last night, another evening on the lathe, I chose to use a bit of 4" OD EN40 steel bar, tough to turn but ideal for the job.







After a few hours I had this, Its a little long at the moment as I need to hold it to broach the double keyway, will trim to length once thats done.










Drilled the 6 bolt pcd into the pulleys








I got the various parts back from vapor blasting so nice and clean now.














Stripped the blower down to get it all clean and fit new bearings and do the required modifications, during stripping everything was centre dotted to aid in reassembly to keep everything in sync.








Undoing the gear bolts was a task as this blower has never been apart before, a bit of softwood jammed in the rotors stops any damage.








As the gears are helical they have to be pulled off together, a bit of scrap aluminium and some bolts were used as a simple puller.








Again the gears were centre dotted to aid reassembly.










Heres the empty case ready for vapour blasting.








These holes in the case both ends have to be tapped 3/8"NPT and filled with pipe plugs to stop oil.









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Originally Posted by roadster32

I would look for the biggest spindle bore you can find Roger, mine is 1.75" which is a good size but still can't get 2" bar in
I wasn't worried about the belts to be honest as already sorted them out with my local bearing specialist.

Thanks, Steve, on the lathe info. Yeah, the belt thing used to be a real problem back in the '60's & '70's, but since around 1980 became all but a non issue with mandatory tolerances and improved processes.

First of all, I really like your bracket/tab/fab design and work. my hat is off to you sir. Secondly, that blower was a great score, and will be an awesome added bonus on here! It's even better your mate had the front cover and a drive snout. The snout and drive parts bring more than a blower core up here. Way nice work on your pullies and idler. Nice markings before tear down to save you some head aches. The blower case looks pretty nice compared to some I've seen of that size. Great work, keep at it.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

First of all, I really like your bracket/tab/fab design and work. my hat is off to you sir. Secondly, that blower was a great score, and will be an awesome added bonus on here! It's even better your mate had the front cover and a drive snout. The snout and drive parts bring more than a blower core up here. Way nice work on your pullies and idler. Nice markings before tear down to save you some head aches. The blower case looks pretty nice compared to some I've seen of that size. Great work, keep at it.

Cheers Ryan, I'm pretty sure the blower has never been apart as there are no centre dots anywhere, yes it's in pretty tidy condition.

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Started making the blower snout shaft last night, used the EN40 offcut from the crank hub, drilled the mounting holes, next I need to make the drive shaft which will be welded and pinned to the hub you see here.







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Very nice, and those ARP fasteners finish it off. Do you buy those by the bag? I notice you use them a lot.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Very nice, and those ARP fasteners finish it off. Do you buy those by the bag? I notice you use them a lot.

I'm a dealer for ARP Ryan so have them on the shelf, the best bolts around in my opinion, I only used the stainless as I didn't have any regular type, they will get changed.

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Came to a full stop on the snout shaft as run out of 1" bar so turned my attention to sorting the intake out, I'm gonna have to use the Fenton 3 x 2 as can't find an aluminium intake to mill out, Only one person making one and its big money, there is one guy making blower intakes for the Y block but at $1000 he can keep them !!!
The problem I have is the carb throats on the Fenton are too far apart for the bottom outlet of a 4/71, a 6/71 would of been spot on but way to big for the look I want. Anyways decided to stick with what I have, shame really as the Fenton seems to be fairly rare.
My cunning plan is to fabricate a curved ended box to act as a plenum which simply bolts to the existing intake and the blower bolts straight to this.

First job was to make a 3/8" plate for the base and transfer all the various holes, the original carb mounting holes will be drilled out to 3/8" as because of the top having the normal 5 degree inclination the holes will be slightly tilted once I flycut the top surface true to the crank centreline, the pics hopefully will explain.










Here I have made a mockup in cardboard.










Getting to the rear 2 and the front 1 mounting bolt will be tricky but doable








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