Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Sorry about that Navy---just been looking at the frame specs at Wescottsauto.com and see that the 1940 stuff has quite a rise to the front frame rails that ain't there on te earlyer ones----it will need some adjustment for that differance -----------------

I also have a 9 inch ford rear end with a 2 3/4 tube thru the pinion support that then fits in the mains of a BBC for perfect set up og drive shaFT ANGLES----but it works best for race cars with a centerline mounted pinion as most of the street cars have some offset-------------

Off subject---is that Selma alabama?????????????????????? was down there in 60s for the march when I was in 7th Cav---------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Sorry about that Navy---just been looking at the frame specs at Wescottsauto.com and see that the 1940 stuff has quite a rise to the front frame rails that ain't there on te earlyer ones----it will need some adjustment for that differance -----------------

I also have a 9 inch ford rear end with a 2 3/4 tube thru the pinion support that then fits in the mains of a BBC for perfect set up og drive shaFT ANGLES----but it works best for race cars with a centerline mounted pinion as most of the street cars have some offset-------------

Off subject---is that Selma alabama?????????????????????? was down there in 60s for the march when I was in 7th Cav---------

Jerry: That would be Selma, Tx just at the north edge of San Antonio.

Well here's the latest completed work on the 40. Cross members and engine mounts. I'm not really happy with the last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&. I started making a drive shaft loop and was going to use it but in the name of strength I though 2 bars with bends were better. I'm hoping after the bed is on I'll forget what it looks like. I'm wondering if I should put some upright pieces in to complete a loop of sorts ?

Today is a rotten day, my 327 has a cracked block ! So now I'm going with a 283 which has bee bored out .030 over. Wanting to use the heads from the 327 because I have no other heads and it forces me to buy new pistons. The ones I have for the 283 are high compression and won't clear the heads. If things keep going south I might have to buy a 350 crate engine. Worked on the front end to set the ride height. I weighted all parts of the front and than started stacking steel on on top of the block till i had the same amt. Ended up cutting off 3/4 of a coil from the spring to obtain what I think is the the right ride height. Before the spring cut off, the upper control arms where hitting the springs even with the weight they were pushing down so hard, also it wouldn't allow me to adjust the camber/caster to get the front wheels straight up and down, they leaned out at the top bad. Your 2 cents is always welcome. Here's a picture.

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Just curious how much you cut off your springs. Do you have stock spindles or dropped ones?

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Yeah Randy, that '40 is probably just revolting a bit, not wanting to be wearing a bow tie in it's golden years!!

Navy, what do you mean by

....last to cross bars that I put in between the left and right side. Their off center to match the drive shaft and it looks like $hi&.

The pumpkin is off center, but the engine & tranny will sit straight, aligned on the chassis centerline, and the drive shaft will angle from the tail shaft to the differential, sloped so that the down tilt of the tailshaft is equal and opposite from the up tilt of the differential yoke, right?

Originally Posted by rspears

Yeah Randy, that '40 is probably just revolting a bit, not wanting to be wearing a bow tie in it's golden years!!

Navy, what do you mean by
The pumpkin is off center, but the engine & tranny will sit straight, aligned on the chassis centerline, and the drive shaft will angle from the tail shaft to the differential, sloped so that the down tilt of the tailshaft is equal and opposite from the up tilt of the differential yoke, right?

Looks like $#&^ because the bends are not center to the frame, they are aligned with the drive shaft. Engine and tranny are aligned to the chassis centerline.

Originally Posted by randyr

Hey Navy, sorry to hear about your 327! Maybe it's a sign for you to consider putting a Ford in that Ford!

Just curious how much you cut off your springs. Do you have stock spindles or dropped ones?

3/4 of a coil, I was told the spindles are 2" drop, don't know for sure never measured, there the ones I'm going to use no matter what.

Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size

Pistons won't clear the heads /valves because their an after market high compression type, big dome.
Today I basically did what your saying a little backwards. I did remove the springs and use pipe to set the ride height to the same as I had it after the springs were cut.
Block is a 1962, small journal.

sweet local ride of about the same vintage i think ...

Hoss429 thanks for posting the pic, its the same year and every picture I see helps me build mine. Its nice to see how others have put things together. Thanks

I hung the sheet metal and wasn't very happy with the end result. Drivers side looked good but the pass side well lets just say I was ready to ratrod the truck. In the end I decided that the problem was that being the truck was in a house fire and the front pass side fender was burned real good that it got shrunk when the firemen turned the hose on the hot metal. Sounds kinda out there. The part that can't line up is between the cab to fender mount and the running board to fender mount. Its pulled away by 5/16ths of and inch in between these 2 points, instead of a straight line it has a bow. I did push ,pull and shove it trying to make it fit better but no way. Should have taken a pic to share. Stopped to see how my 283 block checked out at the engine shop and now its going to be a 283 + .060" , but at least its not cracked.

Ok New day new attitude, new repair. I turned my 42 cab back to a 40 cab today or almost. I filled in the gas tank filler hole in the cab. Cut patch, welded and then tried my hand a leading it rather than bondo, I hate bondo. Anybody ever lead ? Had troubles having it run off , I may have to turn the cab to get more to stay put while it cools. Any pointers here are welcome.

The pistons should clear the heads unless the heads have been maybe angle milled---------or, possibly(seen it several times) they are installed backwards??????????

You can use your 327 stuff in a 350 block but you'll need to get a set of spacer main bearings------