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Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

    I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

    and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size

  2. #2
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Why won't the 283 pistons clear the heads??????????//

    I think you need to re arrange how you are setting up the chassis for ride height---instead of weighing and trying to simulate the loaded ht, decide where you want it to set and made up some tubular pieces for that length of the shocks at ride ht and install them for the construction phase---then when done, weight the vehicle and choose springs to match for tha wt and ht---------

    and is it an early or late 327??? a later 350 block will work you just need a main bearing spacer if the crank is an early small bearing size
    Pistons won't clear the heads /valves because their an after market high compression type, big dome.
    Today I basically did what your saying a little backwards. I did remove the springs and use pipe to set the ride height to the same as I had it after the springs were cut.
    Block is a 1962, small journal.

  3. #3
    HOSS429's Avatar
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    sweet local ride of about the same vintage i think ...
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    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  4. #4
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hoss429 thanks for posting the pic, its the same year and every picture I see helps me build mine. Its nice to see how others have put things together. Thanks

  5. #5
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    I hung the sheet metal and wasn't very happy with the end result. Drivers side looked good but the pass side well lets just say I was ready to ratrod the truck. In the end I decided that the problem was that being the truck was in a house fire and the front pass side fender was burned real good that it got shrunk when the firemen turned the hose on the hot metal. Sounds kinda out there. The part that can't line up is between the cab to fender mount and the running board to fender mount. Its pulled away by 5/16ths of and inch in between these 2 points, instead of a straight line it has a bow. I did push ,pull and shove it trying to make it fit better but no way. Should have taken a pic to share. Stopped to see how my 283 block checked out at the engine shop and now its going to be a 283 + .060" , but at least its not cracked.

  6. #6
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    Ok New day new attitude, new repair. I turned my 42 cab back to a 40 cab today or almost. I filled in the gas tank filler hole in the cab. Cut patch, welded and then tried my hand a leading it rather than bondo, I hate bondo. Anybody ever lead ? Had troubles having it run off , I may have to turn the cab to get more to stay put while it cools. Any pointers here are welcome.




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