Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Yes, Eaton Detroit Spring.. I figured all well seasoned / international rodder types knew those initials..

Originally Posted by 34_40

Yes, Eaton Detroit Spring.. I figured all well seasoned / international rodder types knew those initials..

Nope, in my head they're Detroit Eaton, not Eaton Detroit and I think of them for rear gear products like the TrueTrac, TracLock or even the Detroit Locker as opposed to springs. Google doesn't link to the Eaton site from either EDS or DES so I learned something.
As for the "...seasoned/international rodder" tag,

Navy7797 don't let us hijack your thread here I think we kind of got back into the root of your question, and you should be able to pick out which springs to start with.

Originally Posted by rspears

Nope, in my head they're Detroit Eaton, not Eaton Detroit and I think of them for rear gear products like the TrueTrac, TracLock or even the Detroit Locker as opposed to springs. Google doesn't link to the Eaton site from either EDS or DES so I learned something.
As for the "...seasoned/international rodder" tag,

Navy7797 don't let us hijack your thread here I think we kind of got back into the root of your question, and you should be able to pick out which springs to start with.

Eaton Detroit Spring Home

Ask them here, great to work with..

Thanks guys thats all good info and comments . The springs I'm looking at are multiple leaf so the tuning thing is very doable. some that are available are 2 stage so I'm guessing that those have a helper type spring. I'll have to do some more research.
I just got back home with my 1962 327 cid vet engine, got the block, heads, pistons and crank for free from and old friend that has a body shop. Also picked up a 700r4 auto tranny from my brother-in-law who works for a tranny shop again another freebee. I guess I'll have to let them drive it around when I get it on on road. Thanks again for your reply's !

Originally Posted by Navy7797

Thanks guys thats all good info and comments . The springs I'm looking at are multiple leaf so the tuning thing is very doable. some that are available are 2 stage so I'm guessing that those have a helper type spring. I'll have to do some more research.
I just got back home with my 1962 327 cid vet engine, got the block, heads, pistons and crank for free from and old friend that has a body shop. Also picked up a 700r4 auto tranny from my brother-in-law who works for a tranny shop again another freebee. I guess I'll have to let them drive it around when I get it on on road. Thanks again for your reply's !

If you'll post the casting numbers off the heads (in between the valve guides), I'll run a a DynoSim of affordable parts and spit out a hp and torque figure for you, in the event you want to keep the motor and build it as a vintage 327. Also, get me the stamped alpha-numeric suffix number on the block. It's on the passenger side of the block, at the very front, on the deck where the head bolts on. If you can't see the suffix number on the block deck, that means that the block has been decked in the past and the alpha-numbers have been destroyed. On the back of the block just before the bellhousing flange, at the top of the block, is another casting number. Post that one as well please.

As Uncle Bob said, it may be to your advantage to sell the 327 stuff to help finance the build. So if you'll post the numbers, we can nail down the application of the parts for sure and you can figure the best avenue.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

If you'll post the casting numbers off the heads (in between the valve guides), I'll run a a DynoSim of affordable parts and spit out a hp and torque figure for you, in the event you want to keep the motor and build it as a vintage 327. Also, get me the stamped alpha-numeric suffix number on the block. It's on the passenger side of the block, at the very front, on the deck where the head bolts on. If you can't see the suffix number on the block deck, that means that the block has been decked in the past and the alpha-numbers have been destroyed. On the back of the block just before the bellhousing flange, at the top of the block, is another casting number. Post that one as well please.

As Uncle Bob said, it may be to your advantage to sell the 327 stuff to help finance the build. So if you'll post the numbers, we can nail down the application of the parts for sure and you can figure the best avenue.

Will get the #'s posted , thanks

[QUOTE=techinspector1;491362]If you'll post the casting numbers off the heads (in between the valve guides), I'll run a a DynoSim of affordable parts and spit out a hp and torque figure for you, in the event you want to keep the motor and build it as a vintage 327. Also, get me the stamped alpha-numeric suffix number on the block. It's on the passenger side of the block, at the very front, on the deck where the head bolts on. If you can't see the suffix number on the block deck, that means that the block has been decked in the past and the alpha-numbers have been destroyed. On the back of the block just before the bellhousing flange, at the top of the block, is another casting number. Post that one as well please.

Techinspector1: Here's the #'s I could find. It looks like the block must have been decked at one time, can't find any #'s on the deck.

Block # just before Bellhousing = GM 3858180 also has a T-8 and J and D225 in same area.
Head # 1 = 8782461 also on head= GM1 L11 4
Head # 2= 8782461 also on head= GM2 L11 4
I'm very curious as to what I have, thanks for your time !

gordy

Another question. Not having seen a radiator installed in a 40 ford I need to ask this, are these the radiator mounts in the picture ?


Thanks again for the post replys.

opps got a double