Mike, I've never heard of EDS (other than Electronic Data Systems), and a Google search does not bring up anything for me. Is there a link? Sounds like a good one to store for future reference.
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Rog, try Eaton Detroit Spring........
I don't have any particular insight on the weight thing, though Rogers calculations seem as reasonable as any. The notion of leaf removal for tuning is where I go. How the rig is to be used would influence too. If it's never going to haul a load of manure again then tune for ride rather than load. If a compromise for ride and load, a small set of auxiliary airbags could be a solution. Had that on my lowered Dodge Ram, functioned very well.
Yes, Eaton Detroit Spring.. I figured all well seasoned / international rodder types knew those initials..:eek:**):LOL::LOL::3dSMILE::rolleyes:
Nope, in my head they're Detroit Eaton, not Eaton Detroit and I think of them for rear gear products like the TrueTrac, TracLock or even the Detroit Locker as opposed to springs. Google doesn't link to the Eaton site from either EDS or DES so I learned something.
As for the "...seasoned/international rodder" tag, :p:p:p:p:p:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Navy7797 don't let us hijack your thread here ;) I think we kind of got back into the root of your question, and you should be able to pick out which springs to start with.:)
Eaton Detroit Spring Home
Ask them here, great to work with.. :p
Thanks guys thats all good info and comments . The springs I'm looking at are multiple leaf so the tuning thing is very doable. some that are available are 2 stage so I'm guessing that those have a helper type spring. I'll have to do some more research.
I just got back home with my 1962 327 cid vet engine, got the block, heads, pistons and crank for free from and old friend that has a body shop. Also picked up a 700r4 auto tranny from my brother-in-law who works for a tranny shop again another freebee. I guess I'll have to let them drive it around when I get it on on road. Thanks again for your reply's !
opps got a double
Okay, just a bit of a tangent about funding a toy car since you've dangled the bait.
If you're not hot, horny for a 327 of specific vintage/origin, and 350 sbc components are all over the place, one option would be to peddle that 327 to someone in the Vette restoration crowd. Correctly numbered/identified/date coded Vette stuff can go for what some consider crazy money (and you certainly got in at a right price). I don't follow that slice of the hobby directly so you'd have to do some research (or maybe someone here knows), but if everything lined up well, you might be able to fund a well rebuilt 350 short block or better from the sale of the 327 parts.............just sayin'.......
Navy, you might try exploring here: C1 & C2 Corvettes - Corvette Forum
A buddy of mine just restored a '63 Corvette and has had good experience with peeps on this forum. He said if you list your engine, be sure to include all the casting numbers on the various parts because they seem to be important to the GM guys.
Good luck!
If you'll post the casting numbers off the heads (in between the valve guides), I'll run a a DynoSim of affordable parts and spit out a hp and torque figure for you, in the event you want to keep the motor and build it as a vintage 327. Also, get me the stamped alpha-numeric suffix number on the block. It's on the passenger side of the block, at the very front, on the deck where the head bolts on. If you can't see the suffix number on the block deck, that means that the block has been decked in the past and the alpha-numbers have been destroyed. On the back of the block just before the bellhousing flange, at the top of the block, is another casting number. Post that one as well please.
As Uncle Bob said, it may be to your advantage to sell the 327 stuff to help finance the build. So if you'll post the numbers, we can nail down the application of the parts for sure and you can figure the best avenue.
I realize the difference between cars and trucks but this may help you with your decision with springs. I built this 41 Sedan Delivery (same chassis as 40 car and SD) over 10 years ago with Chassis Engineering's rear leaf spring kit. The front is Super Bell with 4-bar and Posies reverse eye transverse spring. I like mine naturally low. The chin piece under the grille is just high enough to clear speed bumps but you do have to be careful..........
I wanted to add that my SD still has original transverse rear cross member. The Chassis Engineering kit positions the rear end such that the center section clears. When i purchased the CE kit, they included list of rear ends that were direct bolt in. If i remember correctly, the rear i used is a 74 Nova 10-bolt. Spring pads were in correct location and rear is correct width which made it a direct bolt in.........good luck.........
Fordflambe, that is a sweet SD!