Very nice.
Printable View
Very nice.
Geeze! Your tool holders are nicer than most for sure. I thought you were building some steps for a semi for a minute there. :LOL:
So while I'm blocking primer (think I shoulda swapped jobs with her) E worked on the next two tooling racks. Here using the Diacro press brake to add some dimples....
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5533.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5535.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5536.jpg
Note here she is also skilled in applying the electric tape bandage....
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5537.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5538.jpg
….for some reason I don't think three sets is gonna be enough....
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5569.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u832gcW_lbM
Crikey!
You must have a die for every conceivable need.
I've never before seen a collection of that variety and scope.
Amazing.
Electric tape is easier to remove than duct tape Trust me I know.
E is quite a young lady! None of that girly, "Oh darn, I scuffed my nail polish!" More like, "OK, that hurt! Where's the tape so I don't get blood on everything!" Gotta love it!Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C
I hope when this project is done you turn it
into book form. The complete guide to metal
finishing . With all the great information, tips,
links to videos, problem solving, etc. I would
have paid dearly for it when I first started metal
work. I still learn from your posts.
Great story telling Robert!
Rich
Thanks guys!!
Next job for E was to add some sound deadening to the inside of the door skins...
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5573.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5572.jpg
Behind each of the speaker mounts we added a section of Dynaliner…
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5578.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5580.jpg
She did a good job of that, wait until she sees how much more we have to go!
Is the Noico the same stuff you can get off Amazon?
That’s where the owner bought it from.
How do I double - like this? (The book idea)
You've got pictures. You've got dialogue.
It would be a minimal effort to add missing details, it might fetch a pretty penny.
BTW... hard copy, coffee table edition (over sized)
Progress pics from last night... Yep, we've been block sanding..
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5659.jpg
Using Evercoat 416 to address the few low spots..
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5656.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5657.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5658.jpg
Honing up on my painting skills with brush on seam sealer
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5653.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5654.jpg
Today's lesson is on media blasting and stretch damage that occurs. Here’s what a sand blaster will do to a roof skin when blasting the braces underneath.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5660.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5661.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5662.jpg
Our blaster was doing the brace from underneath/inside and the inadvertent stray media hitting the adjacent roof skin stretched it, pulling it inward toward the media stream . On the outside the “unstretched” area shows as a high spot, the stretched part that needs shrinking is seen as a low. So if you must media blast any braces or internal structure, block off the skin next to it so no media touches it. Save yourself the extra body work.
We fixed the lows by locating the exact spots on the inside that needed shrinking and tapping outward into a small shot bag. To locate, a rare earth magnet is placed outside on the roof skin in each low spot, and some grinding dust finds the magnet on the inside where we can mark the perimeter both inside and out, and work with one person on either side to remove the lows. (See video, magnet marks highs or lows, it doesn’t care) For multiple lows, mark both sides of all spots and number them, so you can move from one spot to the next, calling out the number desired to your shrinking assistant. If your car is too clean to have grinding dust, look under your bench grinder.
Magnet use video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHHTKiWZ2Xo
Note on the inside roof skin picture the multiple numbered circles where we found low spots to address.
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More excellent work! Have you seen the attachments for pressure washers that inject sand to sand blast? I'm thinking that would be pretty nice on sheet metal. No heat so hopefully no warpage and no dust too.
.
Any heat noticed in normal blasting is a side effect of the peening action. Stretching has already occurred long before the heat shows up, so don't buy into the pressure washer hype too deep. They can cause just as much damage. Think of all that media as little hammer heads beating the sheet metal. In the case of our roof, it was being blasted from the bottom side to clean off the roof brace. The media that struck the roof skin to the sides of the brace was peening the sheet metal, in essence causing it to stretch the skin on the surface that the media is striking. This stretch on the one side of the sheet metal then causes the panel to balloon inward, TOWARD the media source, which on the outside appears as a low. Larger media = bigger hammers. Too much air pressure = a harder swing on those hammers. Whether the media is propelled by air, water, or anything else you can find, too much swing of too big a hammer will indeed stretch, despite the "water keeping the panel cool". Have seen it on hoods, trunk lids, you name it. Someone attempts to clean off an inner structure and hits the sheet metal from the bottom, and you have an instant low right where that brace/structure ends.
Here is a sandblast test I did on a trunk lid to learn up on the subject...
Repairing Sandblast Damage - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
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As usual - a great and interesting read. I learned a lot and won't ever look at a simple dent in the same way!!!
Thank You Robert, for sharing your knowledge... with us mere mortals! :3dSMILE::3dSMILE:
i use cardboard inside doors and such when blasting. lot of damage is done by blasting inside .
that blast attachment for pressure washer is nothing new. one came with a washer i bought years ago. good way to destroy a car and make it a rusty mess .
Thanks again Mike. The quality of the build on the 55 makes me want to put Rita in the crusher LOL. I did a fair amount of siphon media blasting on Rita on the edges and corners and stuff. I stayed away from flat parts of anything, that being said I still ended up with some distortion on the roof or someone used it for a step ladder, I'm not sure what happened first. Very possible over the course of 70 years it got used as a step ladder.
I've been known to toss a bale (or two) of hay on the roof to finish off a field.
OK, OK... maybe it was 3 or 4.. LOL :LOL::LOL::D
Ok on the pressure washer blaster. Is there any safe media to use to keep war-page down to a minimum? Baking soda, walnut shells? I ask because I fell into another project and I am trying to figure out the best way to get the surface rust off without screwing it up. :LOL:
.
I use a garnet abrasive that is made for water jet machines. 80HPA made by Barton. Works well, or another is coal slag type like Black Beauty. In general, recalling earlier comments above, you want med to fine media (smaller hammers) and lower air pressure (lighter hits of the hammers) while holding the nozzle at an angle (less impact). When blasting inner doors, inner structures for hoods, trunk lids, etc, block off openings that you don't hit open areas and get the issues I showed above.
I wouldn't recommend soda, it will change PH of the metal where Epoxy doesn't have it's bite anymore, and may pull off in sheets, or sand as most also contain caustic salts, not something you want impaled into your sheet metal.
I used black diamond media one time on tractor rims. Maybe you know of a different type, but it was soo aggressive that I ended up going back over with silica sand to smooth them out.
I usually use Black Beauty on most everything. If I see it's overly aggressive (if that's really possible) I'd blend in some of the glass bead I keep on hand. Or even better - blend in some of the used B.B. to take the edge off the new . But this will add time to the job too. 8-(
Perhaps back away - increase the distance from the tip to the work piece? And work on an angle with lower PSI?
Just thinking out loud.. LOL.
What 40? I sold it.
He'll have to start a thread called, "CUMMINS & GOIN'S" :LOL::LOL:
So we've been blocking out epoxy primer, it sure is nice to be able to rotate the car where you need it instead of sanding upside down on the bottoms of drip rails.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5681.jpg
But then you walk past the Driver's A pillar and see holes that shouldn't be there.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5683.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5684.jpg
I don't know how I've missed this before. We did have this same repair done to the other side, I guess with the roof damage confined to that same side I must have not thought this side was suspect. Goes to show, check ALL problem areas, especially if issues show on one side.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5685.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5687.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5688.jpg
Inside the hole has a minimal amount of surface rust, especially for 64 years old. Safe to say the damage was caused by water/dirt accumulation between the center structure (the one we're remaking) and the outer skin. Oh well, it's been a while since I've had a back up and punt moment. Glad this was found before the green kandy went on.
Starting to make the new replacement for the inside, using 14 gauge cold rolled steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7xV0t4WaVY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gpH2WfqWVc
Quite a bit if stretch added for the part to match the original..
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5692.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5693.jpg
Rough shaped on the MH19, tuned up a bit with body hammers, punches used as anvils, and various other implements of destruction. Trimmed and fitted:
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5710.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5707.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5709.jpg
All ready for welding. Meanwhile, Mike has been working on the pointy end of the arrow, here stretching an inside corner to better fit the housing....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohC3TdJKy1o
And adding holes for the plug welds....
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5694.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5695.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...2/IMG_5706.jpg
Good catch on the little rust hole, Robert! Your attention to detail is inspiring, and amazing!
The arrow's looking sweet, too! Thanks for your great posts.
I love how you guys can just fab up any type of panel that you need.
Nice find. You use a lot of hammers. I guess you aren't a mechanic then? :LOL:
What I really like is you take the time to make an exact or as near as perfect reflection of a patch as you can even though it is an inner structure that gets covered up and may never be seen again. That is impressive.
.
:D It's a sickness I tell you....
Here's what we did for the gutter system that sits above/around the cowl vents to keep your feet dry. Typically leaves collect inside the cowl and wreak havoc, starting the rust process in short order, and this is another "hidden from view" repair.
the fab process for the internal gutter.
removed gutter:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture265.jpg
Cut out:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture266.jpg
Bent up:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture267.jpg
Trimmed and fitted:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture268.jpg
Welded up, welds dressed:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture269.jpg
Comparison:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture270-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture271-1.jpg
All parts welded in place:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture277-1.jpg
And then all covered up for no one to see:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture103.jpg
So I don't know if its OCD or just anal retentive nature in trying to do it right.. Maybe I need professional help.. :LOL:
If your going to do it why not do it right At least you know its right
Sometimes it's crazy how much work I do to something and then I miss a spot that is obvious as ever. Glad you found it and I'm pretty sure it's in capable hands LOL
Very nice work! Is that just etch primer oozing out? I have a list of things to buy so when I start back on the 40 I can paint everything with a gun and make it the nicest thing I have. It deserves it. :LOL:
Ryan, that was House of Kolor epoxy primer, KP-2CF
After a week in FL for the day job, time to get the inner patch welded in place.
Tacked using the TIG:
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5725.jpg
video:
https://youtu.be/UixLOAZejMI
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5731.jpg
welds dressed:
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5734.jpg
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5736.jpg
Epoxy primer added:
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...7/IMG_5738.jpg