That heater has a nice art deco look to it. What does that motorbike have, and electric cooling fan? When you mentioned that it seemed strange as I would have thought everything on a motor bike would be gas powered.
Don
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That heater has a nice art deco look to it. What does that motorbike have, and electric cooling fan? When you mentioned that it seemed strange as I would have thought everything on a motor bike would be gas powered.
Don
Wow, I feel like the skill level of a kindergardener compared to this. This is outstanding work, Steve.:eek:
Lots of modern bikes are water cooled Don, most have a small electric fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Shows how much I know about bikes, especially modern ones. :o:D:D
Don
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
You need to keep in mind, this is what Pops thinks of when you say "modern" motorcycle.........
Isn't that a bit new for Don :LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob parmenter
I can see where the chap who designed the first wheel barrow got some ideas from. Heck Don don't some of these guys like pulling your leg???:LOL::LOL::LOL:
I like the heater Steve and will it have demist for the windscreen as I would imagine that would be a problem in England?
Not you TOO, Steve!! :eek::D Actually, I think I had one like that years ago, Bob and I would go riding together. However, his was a little more streamlined than mine. :LOL:
Don
Not bothering with demist Whip as i will have an opening screen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
I am in awe at your CRAFTSMANSHIP it makes me consider pushing mine to the curb for the rubbish man to pick up.....:3dSMILE: Of course I won't I do the best I can with the tools and skill, little on skill, that I have. But it sure is nice to see your work. It will be a super slick rod when finished. Neat heater. I picked up an arvin for mine, wish I could afford to rechrome the front. I think I can save the chrome on frame and repaint case and louvers, which chrome is almost gone on. Maybe make it look like it wasnt redone, with the patina so it looks well worn, but not rusty and junky. Keep up the great work. Look forward to more updates and pics as they come.:D
Thanks for the positives, we all have differing skill levels but we all strive for a common end product. I rather fancy doing a rough and ready shop truck but what would that tell my customers :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlotraf33
Unbelievable workmanship. Can't wait to see it finished.
Me too, thanks for looking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by butch27
Seeing as i hate installing window mechanisms i thought i would get this job out of the way early on
The doors came with a crude Mini based system that didn't work that well to be honest and the window didn't go full travel due to the height of a tall T window.
I thought i might be able too reuse the runners but once i got into the door itself i realised they wern't great either so the door was stripped out, while there i removed the complete inner bottom as it looked like somebody had chewed it out
On inspection the doors wern't as accurate as i thought This isn't a dig at the mould maker as he probably hadn't a decent body to start with but nothing was really very square and there are dips and wobbles on virtually every surface
the easy way out would of been with an electric kit but I did not want electric windows as i feel its more old car with windups and i like them
Here's the door stripped out but still with the window runners in, The runners came out easily as they had been glued in with Gripfill but i then spent ages sanding out the Gripfill with a finger sander
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...august2010.jpg
Here stripped completely
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...august2010.jpg
Firstly i put in a 20mm x 20mm x 3mm box perimeter frame to keep things square, this is made in 2 pieces as it needs to be removeable, this is secured to the grp inner by various contersunk bolts that thread into rivnuts in the box section.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20108.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20103.jpg
When i removed the runners i found a void in each corner so i managed to get inside and rough the glass up and filled them up with good old strawberry
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20106.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20105.jpg
The body came with horrible surface mounted locks that you get on landrovers and looked aweful so were resigned to the bin
I tried a multitude of different locks but none would work due to the T doors being thin and nothing would clear the window.
Gomez appeared one day clutching a pair of 1/2" thick locks that had double latching and were really smooth operating and were perfect for my doors, thanks mate
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20102.jpg
The lock was mounted temporally in the right place, A slot was cut into the steel box for the lock to sit into.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20104.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ugust20107.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...gust201012.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...gust201010.jpg
I have been installing window winders in project Fordson and i was using VW beetle mechanisms that were perfect for it thanks to advice from deudetuor & Mark Bull (thanks guys)
While installing i thought they may work for the T but were a little short on travel
The main problems with the T doors is they have really tall windows that need 20" of travel, also they are pretty narrow so any mechanism needs to be quite slim.
After a bit of thought i decided that if they were extended on the bottom they would maybe work apart from not having enough inner cable length, this was solved by moving the handle gear along the runner, this came out great as it now also put the handle in a more convenient place
Before doing anything i had to sort out the top of the door itself as it was all over the place dipping and uneven so the glass was ground for a key and a couple of lengths of steel clamped in place as guides. Then the surface was built up with chopped mat and resin till level with the steel guides. this also stiffened it all up as it was pretty thin.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t12th20103.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t12th20104.jpg
Here's the mechanism laid in place.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t12th20107.jpg
The bottom stock brackets were cut off and replaced with pieces from some spare scrap runners, they are extended 5" here.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t12th20109.jpg
Securing brackes were made and welded to each end and bolted via rivnuts to the framework.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201016.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201017.jpg
I now had the mechanism mounted centrally in the door so next job was to move the handle gear along the cable runner.
The gear was secured together with rivets so these were drilled out and will be replaced with 5mm bolts and nuts, The gear operates the cable through a slot 25mm wide so another slot was cut 5" further along and reasembled.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201010.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201011.jpg
I now had a mechanism that had 22" of travel next job was to make up a winding hanle mount, this was made from a piece of 2mm steel sheet and bolts in place again via rivnuts installed in the box section.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201019.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201018.jpg
Next a window was cut from some 4mm ply as a template for the glass, I'm using flexible window channel so that was countoured to fit and placed in the door.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201012.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201014.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201015.jpg
Here's what i have so far
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201020.jpg
Next job was to operate the locks some way, luckily a mate came up with a pair of lock regulators so these were modified to fit and installed (thanks Paul). the handles themselves were made from 10mm stainless and made the same way as my exterior handles.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...dleinside2.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201023.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...12th201022.jpg
An operating rod was made up and fitted and it all worked really smoothly and perfectly Apart from a bit of cleanup it all works really nicely and smoothly.
Neat work! Really like the "take what you got and make it work" attitude on the build!!! Just cuz there isn't one in the catalog is no reason it can't be built! Great work, really 1st rate craftsmanship!
I like it, Steve. Very good way to accomplish latching the doors and raising the windows. When do you find time to do all of this, what with your regular jobs and all? Every post you have made so much more progress. :)
Don
Thanks Dave, my budget isn't a huge one so sometimes i have to make do, Although saying that i would rather make something than buy, i get a kick out of making stuff and its nice to have unique parts :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Just in my spare time Don, i work on customers cars 8am - 5pm but i can be found in the workshop from 6am - 9 or 10pm most days except sunday, Sue don't like me working sundays unless its on her Rod of course :LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Someone asked me how i got the square hole in the handles, so here goes
I used a piece of 2.5mm stainless sheet, bent it to a tight 90 degree in the vice with the aid of a hammer, then clamped it around a square shaft and tack welded the 2 corners, then i fuse welded the 2 sides, this was then dressed to slide into a 17mm hole in the handle stub. once welded into the handle stub the face was dressed and the handle welded to the stub, Then polished the weld out.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20103.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20104.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20105.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20106.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20107.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20108.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t13th20109.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...13th201010.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...13th201011.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...13th201014.jpg
.
WOW awesome work Steve and man you have given me some excellent ideas on how to do the inner door frames for my Bucket ,but on a smaller scale ofcourse,thanks. And I don't have to worry about windows.;)
One more reason it's fun to work on your own sometimes....you don't have to justify all the hours to a customer!!!! Most of them just don't seem to understand.....:LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
funny enough i just got an email from someone on the hamb asking if i could make him a pair of mirrors like mine, Of course i declined but i don't think he would want to pay the cost anyways, I have 16 hours in each mirror !!!
Its ok making stuff for yourself as its only time but to make for others is expensive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
At a reasonable labor rate, your mirrors would cost about $2,000.00 a pair---I can understand that!!! Doubt the guy would want to pay that for them. The hours really mount up when you design and build. Takes dedication to wrap up that kind of time into a Hot Rod, but it sure is worth it. Then folks just have to pick on you cuz you're so slow at building a car--Don't suppose that same thing happens on your side of the pond????:rolleyes::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
I am really enjoying your build thread!!! Really great to watch someone willing to put in all the necessary time to assure the fit, finish, and detail on the car is first rate all the way through the build and not just a bunch of bolt ons that may or may not fit the theme of the project!!! Thanks for letting us all share in your build!!!
Don gave me the link to your thread, some how I missed this. Great workmanship! I really appreciate thinking outside the box. I always think there is another way to do everything and you sure are proving that!
Ken
We talk all the time while building our own stuff about how we are amazed that professionals, like you are Steve, can charge enough to turn a profit, and yet not so much that a customer won't pay for it. We all know that sometimes the smallest bracket will take 5 hours to build, and even at $ 40 an hour (which I bet is low in this business), would a customer pay $ 200 for that part?
When that Jimmy Shine show was on TV he made a statement I will never forget. He was telling an apprentice builder, who was working very hard to produce some perfect bracket, "You have to decide what parts will be a 10 and what parts will be ok at a 2."
Every so often, like at a car show, someone will approach us and ask if we could build them a car. We always have to laugh it off saying " Even if we paid ourselves a dollar an hour, I don't think you would want to pay the bill!" :LOL: My hat is off to you guys who can do it and still make a living.
BTW, that square hole thing is a perfect example of how a little thinking and the most common parts can turn out as something people are in awe of. Nice job.
Don
Appreciate the comments Dave, thanks.
Unfortunately over here also there ae many idiots who can't wait to find fault with my cars and work, I'm a big supporter of the UK NSRA and I spend a lot of time giving advice and helping people because i like doing it, when i started rodding in the early 70's there was nobody to ask and obviously no internet so it was tough and we made mistakes, these days its fairly easy to build a rod as there a multitude of forums and magazines etc to help.
My point is that the idiots that slag me off behind my back think i'm being big headed and self promoting myself, they couldn't be more wrong, I'm lucky to have full order books for at least 2 years so don't need the extra work i would get from self promotion.
I think they mistake my help and advice when its really about passion for the hobby, by the way most of these people i've never met or wish too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Ken coming from a fellow builder i take that as a big compliment, thank you.
I must look you up next time we are in SoCal, I think we may get along :)
I guess living in Orange you know my old mate John Reid ???
Also do you know Jimmy White, he does great work and we became friends a few years ago when he showed me around his shop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
Don i charge £20 per hour, thats $30 per hour
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Yes, I have done a lot of business with John and will be doing more with my new project.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
I haven't met Jimmy White, I know of him. His shop was a few doors down from a friend of mine but I never went there, I'm shy :)
Please do give me a call the next time you are here. Would enjoy meeting you.
Ken
Heck Steve you are just a cheap whore at 20 pounds (my key board doesn't have the pound thingy either).:whacked: I would be happy paying you more like 50 pounds per hour for your workmanship and skill level. Most of the pro builders down here charge between $50.00 and $100.00 per hour for there work and most have a waiting list a year long or more.
I also believe if one can not do the a job correctly and one has to pay someone to do it,be prepared to pay for the job to be done once and to a satisfactory standard by both parties.:)
For a car that is already done,I am thinking you don't want to hear what I am about to post,but what the heck.No matter what rear end you choose,make very sure you don't choose a rear end ratio that would over rev your engine combo.
Given what you say you want to do,I think if you had a Ford 9' built for your rod,it would be the easiest to have both rear end gear ratios.One center carrier spooled for the strip and another posti for the street.Of course the one for the strip would be geared for that and the one for the street for highway cruising.They are very easy to swap and certainly are a stronger rear end than the 10 bolt.
Jimmys a real friendly guy Ken, I'm sure you will like him and his work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
Your probably right Whip but i'm content with what i get.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiplash23T
Not quite sure what you mean Gary ??? I'm not using a 10 bolt, I already have a 9" built and ready for this car
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gary
I will stop by and say hello next week.
Ken
Jimmy has posted on Dan's thread on the HAMB, and has always been very complimentary and down to earth. Seems like a super nice guy and he sure builds a great hot rod.
Ken, I know you will enjoy meeting Steve and Sue. Just don't take them to an English Pub for lunch.:o:LOL::LOL:
Don
Steve,
I went by Jimmy White's shop on the way home. There wasn't anyone around and no name on the building, so you know if he has moved in the last 8 or 9 months?
Ken
Don nobody would take english people to an english pub would they ??? :o:LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I havn't spoke to him in a while Ken, i know last time i was there he as struggling with work, i do hope things are ok for him.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
While i had the doors on the bench i though i might as well look for garnish moulding as my body had none with it.
Did a bit of digging around and it turned out that there was a restorer guy doing a 27T coupe only 3 miles from my house, result
He kindly came over with his garnish's but as my body is grp it was a no go, it meant a lot of tweaking and as my car is hopefully gonna look like a 60's car i decided to make some custom mouldings, I'm sure my new friends 27T will be handy for reference though
First job was to key up the area that i had straightened at the top of the door and skim with some filler, It didn't need much and the Rage filler i use is so easy to rub down, its excellent stuff.
Then i cut some 6mm x 25mm stainless flat bar to the lengths needed, The bottom bar now sits at a slight angle compared to the stock flat, I think it looks better. Had to notch each end so it sat flush with the window opening so it will look tidy when i add a rubber finisher (I hate it when you can see the inside of the door through the window slot, looks untidy)
All the edges were radiused to look rolled.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings5.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings3.jpg
The 4 parts were then attached to the door with countersunk screws ready for tack welding, had to be careful with the tacks as the GRP can catch light pretty easily
All the parts were rough polished before so to make the final polish easier.
the stainless i had wasn't the best so a fair bit of sanding was needed
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings6.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings8.jpg
Small tacks were done to keep it all together then it was clamped down to my welding bench for finish welding.
While on the bench clamped flat i decided to add rounded corners at the top of the moulding, I think it looks better.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings1.jpg
Heres the finished job after the welds were polished out, they still need a bit more polishing work but i'm pretty pleased how they came out
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings3.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...mouldings5.jpg
.