New build thread; 48 Plymouth

[falconvan]

OK, time to start putting it together for real. I pulled the drive train back out and installed the flywheel and torque converter. For anyone who is wondering how you mate the LS series engines with the pre-LS transmissions, you need this hub adapter and the stock LS flexplate. I used a TCI 2800 stall converter and had the 700 R4 trans rebuilt using TCIs new constant pressure valve body to protect from clutch burnout from a misadjusted TV cable. Next step is to clean up the frame and repaint all the area that got scratched up during the last few years of changes. Then we can start plumbing the brakes.

[Dave Severson]

Kewl news!!! Now the real fun begins, huh?

[falconvan]

That's right, Dave. At least until i run out of money again, that is. I think I've got the I-Scream sold to a guy in Ohio so that'll help keep things moving along.

[falconvan]

OK, this is completely the wrong way to paint a chassis but I said the heck with it and went for it. Id painted this a few years ago but the off brand chassis paint I used scratched easy plus I had to hack off my original steering setup and start over. So really it needed a lot of touch up. I'm sold on the look and toughness of POR-15 but it pretty well puts an end to the life of a paint gun because you'll never get it clean and I didn't want to brush it on. I went to Harbor Freight and found a regular suction paint gun for $12. Mostly plastic, made in Indonesia (where all quality tools are made). I loaded it up with straight paint, no reducer, cranked the air pressure to 80psi, opened the feed wide open, kept it moving as fast as I could, and laid it all on in one coat. When I was done, I threw the gun away. It really came out nice; good gloss, no runs, plus this stuff is as tough as nails.

[Rickomatic]

I used POR-15 on my Jeep. Tuff as nails, just don't get it on your skin.

After it drys, make sure you paint over it with a paint that won't get broke down by UV rays. POR-15 and the sun just doesn't mix.

[falconvan]

I've heard that about UV rays. I'm hoping it wont be an issue since it'll always be out of the sun once the body is on.

[Dave Severson]

Long as you keep the frame on the bottom side, UV shouldn't be a problem with the frame!!!!! Good to hear you discovered a use for the junk spray guns, at that high of air pressure I would imagine the overspray got a bit heavy from time to time? Frame looks great, BTW!

[falconvan]

You'd think so, Dave, but without using reducer it took that high pressure to atomize the stuff and pull it out of the gun. Very little over spray, actually. Glad you like it, I think it came out good, too.

[Mr Blue]

Looks fantastic. I learned something here about the sun getting to the POR 15. Always good to learn something. That LS engine is a great choice. I have a LS engine in my 2004 ZO6 Vette and that thing pulls like crazy. Your Plymouth is going to run great. Looking good! Don Jr.

[stovens]

Por 15 is one of the best products out there for rust conversion. It also sticks to the metal great! The UV thing won't be a problem once the body is on. Nice to hear you can spray the stuff. I've painted most of my frame and differential with it. I also have a disc brake caliper paint kit from them that I haven't used yet, except for the cleaner which will strip grease easily also an excellent product. Your frame came out looking great!

[123pugsy]

The frame looks great.

The last frame I did was by hand. I'll know better next time. Nice tip.

[falconvan]

Thanks all! It's been a busy month; my youngest son is graduating high school and daughter is moving into a rental house we had vacant so just about every night and weekend has been full. After this weekend we'll be done with both so my wife and I are looking forward to some free time. I'm hoping to really kick some butt on this car over the summer and make a lot of progress. I'd like to be down to just chrome and interior by the end of the year. That may be pushing it, but you have set goals and give it your best shot. Has anyone ever done the window conversion where you eliminate the vent windows and make it all one solid piece of glass? I'd like to find a good resource with some pictures on how to do that.

[Dave Severson]

I've done it, not a real big deal. First consideration is that there is room for a door glass that big and that it has room to clear the hinge mechanism inside the door. Sometimes it requires going to smaller door latches, too, like the Bear Claw. If you're going to running power windows and the doors are flat glass, it gets even a bit easier.

As for getting the car to that stage by the end of the year, seems realistic to me if you keep going at your recent pace.....

[falconvan]

Here's the test fit on the body; I had to do a little firewall surgery now that the motor is relocated. Not too bad, though. i should just be able to build a small recessed section and it'll be good to go.

[stovens]

Any distributor clearance issues?