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Got everything back from the blaster last night! I'm happy; I expected some swiss cheese but everything is pretty solid. Only some minor patching on one door bottom, the lower decklid inside edge, and one inner fenderwell will be needed. I'll have to build one good decklid from the two I have but it looks like it wont be too bad. Pics to follow this weekend.
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Good news, huh??? Better then having the blaster tell you there's nothing left to bring home, anyway!!!
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Looking great! Lovin it! These early Plymouths make for a fantastic project. Don Jr.
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Thanks, Don! I'm glad you like it, not a whole lot of folks like the old Mopars. Never could figure out why they didn't get the attention of Fords and Chevys of that year; they're good looking cars, I think. I spent about 10 hours on this today and got pretty far. I swapped out the 4 inch drop cross member for a two inch drop, got the rack and pinion mounts welded in and built motor mounts. Everything came out good, I'm happy. Trying to weld upside down was a chore, I kept getting burned so i lifted this sucker up so i could sit and do it.
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And here's some of my parts after returning from the blaster.
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OK, time to start putting it together for real. I pulled the drive train back out and installed the flywheel and torque converter. For anyone who is wondering how you mate the LS series engines with the pre-LS transmissions, you need this hub adapter and the stock LS flexplate. I used a TCI 2800 stall converter and had the 700 R4 trans rebuilt using TCIs new constant pressure valve body to protect from clutch burnout from a misadjusted TV cable. Next step is to clean up the frame and repaint all the area that got scratched up during the last few years of changes. Then we can start plumbing the brakes.
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Kewl news!!! Now the real fun begins, huh?
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That's right, Dave. At least until i run out of money again, that is. I think I've got the I-Scream sold to a guy in Ohio so that'll help keep things moving along.
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OK, this is completely the wrong way to paint a chassis but I said the heck with it and went for it. Id painted this a few years ago but the off brand chassis paint I used scratched easy plus I had to hack off my original steering setup and start over. So really it needed a lot of touch up. I'm sold on the look and toughness of POR-15 but it pretty well puts an end to the life of a paint gun because you'll never get it clean and I didn't want to brush it on. I went to Harbor Freight and found a regular suction paint gun for $12. Mostly plastic, made in Indonesia (where all quality tools are made). I loaded it up with straight paint, no reducer, cranked the air pressure to 80psi, opened the feed wide open, kept it moving as fast as I could, and laid it all on in one coat. When I was done, I threw the gun away. It really came out nice; good gloss, no runs, plus this stuff is as tough as nails.
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I used POR-15 on my Jeep. Tuff as nails, just don't get it on your skin.
After it drys, make sure you paint over it with a paint that won't get broke down by UV rays. POR-15 and the sun just doesn't mix.
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I've heard that about UV rays. I'm hoping it wont be an issue since it'll always be out of the sun once the body is on.
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Long as you keep the frame on the bottom side, UV shouldn't be a problem with the frame!!!!! Good to hear you discovered a use for the junk spray guns, at that high of air pressure I would imagine the overspray got a bit heavy from time to time? Frame looks great, BTW!
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You'd think so, Dave, but without using reducer it took that high pressure to atomize the stuff and pull it out of the gun. Very little over spray, actually. Glad you like it, I think it came out good, too.
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Looks fantastic. I learned something here about the sun getting to the POR 15. Always good to learn something. That LS engine is a great choice. I have a LS engine in my 2004 ZO6 Vette and that thing pulls like crazy. Your Plymouth is going to run great. Looking good! Don Jr.