New build thread; 48 Plymouth

[Itoldyouso]

I don't think I've ever heard anything bad about a Fatman setup, and it sounds like you feel the same way.

Don

[falconvan]

That's what I think, too, Don. I've seen a few of the 46-48 Mopars set up with Fatman's kit and the reviews have been positive. I did have one guy tell me the turning radius was reduced slightly from stock but once he got used to it, it didn't bother him. They had it two ways; weld on front frame stub with all MII parts or the dropped spindles, disc brakes, shock relocation, and Cavalier rack on the stock front end. I hope I made the right choice; we'll see once it goes down the road.

Here's a couple shots of that seam sealer; I took the picture laying on my back so it's a little disorienting. Basically any welded seam got sealed; then I'll go back and paint over it once it dries.

[John Brian]

I coated the entire under cab with Hurcliner Bedliner. I hope that will do the job of sealing off all the points that would be suspect to leak. I'll take another look to see if there are spots that might need caulk.

[Jack F]

Falcon,
What exactly did you use as the seam sealer?

Jack.

[falconvan]

3M™ Ultrapro™ MSP Sprayable Seam Sealer, 08374, Gray, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge

[Jack F]

Falcon,
Thanks.

[falconvan]

No problem, Jack. Well, we fought with this door for a few days trying to get it to line up right with no luck. Finally we called in one of the local old timers who looked at it and said that the minor dent in the fender and the cowl had apparently caused more than minor damage. The whole "A" pillar on that side had been pushed back about 5/8". He tried a hydraulic body jack to push it back but it rebounded as soon as you let it go. So it looks like we're going for some serious "A" pillar surgery. Luckily I had cut this piece from the other car so we have a donor. Now I'm really glad I farmed this out; I never would have saw this or figured it out myself.

[akrateffil]

Falconvan,
Sorry to hear about your set back, but at least it sounds like you are in good hands.
Andy

[falconvan]

No turning back now......

[Dave Severson]

I've found similar damage on a number of builds. No big deal, it'll come out just fine Falcon!

[falconvan]

Man, I hope so. It's looking positive, though. We got the upper part of the A pillar moved to where it's the same as the drivers side with a port-a-power. Now to put it all back together this week.

[Dave Severson]

Should work, Falcon! Looks good, should go back together nice!

[Jack F]

Falcon,
Do you have any pics showing the bad fit of the door before the repair? What size portapower did you use? When I was building my 34 for the first time 46+ years ago I suspected it had been in a role over. The drip flare on the drivers side wasn't as defined as it was on the pass. side, the hinges had to be forced to get the hinge pins to fit and the door never fit right. In this present rebuild I discovered that the rocker panel on the drivers side had been replaced and was done poorly as well. This time around I am cleaning up the original repair by cleaning up the welds on the rocker panel and using the portapower to force the lower body to better fit the door. Sorry to ramble on but we seem to have similar problems. It looks like you are doing a good job on your repair and it looks like my body will be off and on several more times before this is over. Keep up the good work. Jack.

[falconvan]

Hi Jack; I wish i had taken a before picture but I didnt. It was most pronounced at the top of the door right before it turned to go down by the vent window. The port-a-power he used was about the size of a standard cherry picker hydraulic cylinder. It sounds like we're in the same boat; hopefully yours comes out straight, too.

[falconvan]

Looks like it's going to turn out OK. This is just tack welded in place but the door gap is way better than it was before.