Thread: Project Special K

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Your doing good Steve, and Tiva looks like he is doing well also.

Richard

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Looks great Steve, and I think Muttley is pleased with it too.... Don't remember what all you did on the heads, but I guess my experience with the BBF's in streetable trim has led me to prefer the Performer RPM over the Performer.--- But then my definition of "streetable" seems to be a bit different then most. Compared with stock, you should be well pleased with the whole setup I would say.

I concur with reference to the RPM Dave. It shows more torque and hp throughout the range. It's just a better design. I wouldn't have believed it until I saw it on the dyno.

"Muttley" is just gettin' the scent of those parts/tools so he can track them down later when some light-fingered dude makes off with them

You gotta love them BBF engines, except when you start lifting the parts around. I think one of the heads weighs more than a SBC engine complete. Yours looks great, Steve, and you are going to love the torque these babies make.

You mentioned having trouble getting the engine onto the stand by yourself. I learned a little trick years ago that makes it really easy.

1) Pull the pin out of the rotating head part of the stand and remove the head that you bolt to the bellhousing area.

2) Bolt just that head to the backside of the engine, adjust it properly, and tighten up the bolts.

3) Then lift your engine high enough on the engine lift so you can lift up the backside of your engine stand and slide the round portion over the round part of the rotatable head. When you do this the back two wheels of the stand will be suspended in the air. The engine stand will be hanging by the engine lift at an odd angle at this point.

4) Put the pin in to hold the rotating head in the correct position and slowly start to lower the engine lift down. The entire stand will start to ride down on the front one or two wheels (depending on model you have) until the back wheels touch the ground and start to level out. After a little dropping the engine will be resting entirely supported by the engine stand and you can remove the chain that was holding it up.

I wish I had pictures of what I mean, but if you lift the engine high enough you can easily slip the stand onto the head. I have hung quite a few engines all by myself using this method, it beats trying to align the four long bolts into the back of the engine with the head still in place.

Just thought I would pass this along.

Don

Dave -I thought about going with the rpm but wasn't sure how much power I'd want with such an old truck and stock suspension. We'll see, I'm already ocillating towards a 4 bar set up in back.
Tech -Tiva normally hangs with my wife, and Pretzel is my constant companion, he's the dog in my avatar.
Richard - thanks.
Don - what a great idea. If I ever find myself trying to mount the engine to the stand again, I will definately try your system out. Wish I would have thought of that on my own!

[QUOTE=techinspector1]I concur with reference to the RPM Dave. It shows more torque and hp throughout the range. It's just a better design. I wouldn't have believed it until I saw it on the dyno.
"QUOTE]

Couple years back we rented Andy's chassis dyno for the day.... Took both cars with BBF's and 6 different intakes, 7 carbs, 4 distributors, 5 guys, and two boxes of donuts..... Learned lots!!!!!! We're thinking about doing it again next spring, only this time it will be Windsor's...... Wanna come up and have some way big fun, Richard???????

Heck yeah, I'm in. As long as it's thawed out by then

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Heck yeah, I'm in. As long as it's thawed out by then

Yup, it'll be in the warm weather.... I don't go much further then house to the garage in the cold crap.... The old bod just won't take anymore then that!!!!!! Heck, I won't be able to move decent till the temp is back in the 80's!!!!!!!

Dave and Tech - Sounds like some serious fun! The RPM manifold is actually only 5 dollars more at summit than the regular performer. I got the performer on ebay brand new for a great price though. Once it's running, if it needs some more hp, or torque I'll switch out to the rpm. I noticed they make two performance rpm manifolds for the 460 BBF. One is an air gap style which keeps the air fuel mixture cooler the other is the regular rpm setup. What type were you and Tech refering to? (Down the line it would be nice to switch to a polished manifold as well!)

I'd go with the Air Gap, anything that lowers the temp of the mixture before the cylinders is good!

Steve that sure looks great . I am a BBF fan thru and thru and that will be nice between the fenders of the truck . Sure looks shiny also with the toppings on it

A couple of quick plugs in order. After my timing cover crisis, I just recieved to new front seals in the mail today, the Dorman tech service guy rocks(though a little too late , but it is the thought that counts, Thank you Dorman guy! Also summit went out of their way to help me identify the seal for the Dorman cover, even when I didn't buy it from them ! Great folks!
Lastly The guy who I bought all my new glass from for the truck, off Ebay, who took a huge hit from Hurricane Ike and lost half his buisness not to mention a pet and damage to his home, made good today with a deliverly 6 weeks after original purchase, buisness up and running again. Thank you glass guy for restoring my faith and trust in people not to mention your hard work in hard times to stand by what you do!
Any thoughts to the best way to plug all of those factory fire wall holes where it will look good when done?

here is a picture of what I am talking about

Too funny today! Some times sharing the stupid things is fun. I filled my engine with oil and went to prime the oil pump. I hadn't blocked off any vacuum or water holes on the intake, because the engine is still on the stand, and not being hooked up to start. I had noticed a hole in the back on top of the block, behind the intake. I even took a leap figuring it must be for the oil pressure transducer on Friday when I was assembling everything.. So you can guess what happened when I started priming the oil pump....geyserville!
Good thing I was using the cordless Makita! It stops fast! So note to self get new pressure transducer and mount asap!

For the smaller ones, a piece of brass for a backer and start welding them shot. For the larger ones, some tin cut to fit, more welding and grinding....

Cheap backer for welding holes is to take a piece of copper pipe, like 1/2 or 3/4, then flatten one end and bend an angle to suit. The tube will remain relatively cool so you can just hold it in place while using the mig to weld the hole closed. More grinding...