Thread: Wire mess

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The problem with an ammeter is that ALL the alternator output runs through it. A voltmeter will solve the problem of charge indication but you will need to bypass the ammeter wires. No big deal really.

Got the correct wiring diagram for your truck (with the ammeter shown)? It'll be easy to figure from there.

Looks like all you'll need to do is jumper the 2 12 ga. reds at the horn relay. But, if I'm reading the diagram correctly, the ammeter is actually reading the current at the horn relay (hence the 18-20 ga. wires running to and from the ammeter). Still, a 100 amp alternator will kill the ammeter. So you're still left jumpering the 2 red 12 ga. wires (or putting them on 1 post in order to keep the horn relay working).

Thats where I am at now,is running a new #8 wire to the horn relay from the hot B lug 0n the solenoid.That leaves me with the headlight wires,horn wire and the red and b/w wire in the main harness on the drivers side along with the brown wire for relay activation.Then in the pic u can see the new #8 power wire to the horn relay buss.

Now what I am workin on is the engine harness on the passengers side.I have it narrowed down to the B wire running from the hot B lug on solenoid to the ignition switch,not sure about this wire should it be installed or left off?1 more question, the solenoid works just like a ford solenoid ,it is just installed on the starter instead of the firewall?....... Wonder if there is some sort of resistor that I can install to still use the ammeter,just need the right Gigawatt rating

I'd leave the B+ from the solenoid to the ignition switch. The solenoid indeed works just like a Ford solenoid (electrically) except it also moves the starter drive. When the starter drive bottoms is when the contacts allow current to flow through the starter motor.

I'm quite sure you could install some sort of shunt to keep the ammeter working.

Thnx for the info ,that should just about do it!!!!! How would I go about making this shunt?

http://www.otherpower.com/cgi-bin/we....pl?read=13715 Seems like good info,just not sure how youWould hook it up in my application?

I like Dennys article.

Well, cause I took the time to read it .

I like the part where it shows how to "tune" a shunt,nice info!!!! So I need to take a ohm meter measure the resistane of my current ammeter ?Then taking that value , that will give me the needed shunt resistance?Now that I have a 100 amp alt.I need a shunt that will take 100 amps?

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24991

The wires are already 18/20 gauge as it uses the horn relay as the first shunt.

I'm referring to his existing wiring. It's not a direct read gauge, therefore the 18-20 gauge wiring.

The key is the horn relay. That's the shunt. Hot from battery on one terminal, hot from alternator on the other side. Current flows through horn relay with it acting as a shunt.

I am referring to the existing, original wiring of his truck.

The big pic is what I have for a horn relay.The above pic is what was original.Now the main power up goes directly to one side of the horn relay(replacing fuible link with real fuse) ,along with the ammeter guage wire running to the dash,the other post on the horn relay has the alt wire and the wire back to charge to batt.The other side of the ammeter coming back out of the dash is connected to the hot B lug on the starter as original.

Heres a pic new charge wire in red ,old harness main power up.Notice the small b/w wire ,thats the one that runs to the guage ,it just powers up from the same place as the main dash power.

Well for those checking this out ,I pulled another beginner mistake,I soldered the new wire onto the old wire ends with acid core solder and used acid base flux .I just found out this is a big no,no!!! live and learn,I will cut them off and get the correct rosin core solder for electronics.From what I understand the electrons will push that stuff thru the wire,the ends even though I cleaned them are already corroded. Any body know where to pick up 1966 firewall terminals?