Hybrid View
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06-27-2006 09:59 PM #1
The key is the horn relay. That's the shunt. Hot from battery on one terminal, hot from alternator on the other side. Current flows through horn relay with it acting as a shunt.
I am referring to the existing, original wiring of his truck.http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/647081
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06-27-2006 11:08 PM #2
The big pic is what I have for a horn relay.The above pic is what was original.Now the main power up goes directly to one side of the horn relay(replacing fuible link with real fuse) ,along with the ammeter guage wire running to the dash,the other post on the horn relay has the alt wire and the wire back to charge to batt.The other side of the ammeter coming back out of the dash is connected to the hot B lug on the starter as original.Last edited by shawnlee28; 06-27-2006 at 11:13 PM.
Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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06-28-2006 09:01 AM #3
Heres a pic new charge wire in red ,old harness main power up.Notice the small b/w wire ,thats the one that runs to the guage ,it just powers up from the same place as the main dash power.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-01-2006 08:15 AM #4
Well for those checking this out ,I pulled another beginner mistake,I soldered the new wire onto the old wire ends with acid core solderand used acid base flux
.I just found out this is a big no,no!!!
live and learn,I will cut them off and get the correct rosin core solder for electronics.From what I understand the electrons will push that stuff thru the wire,the ends even though I cleaned them are already corroded.
Any body know where to pick up 1966 firewall terminals?
Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
".......So sanded it all down and resprayed. ......" Been there. done that on a couple of paint jobs over the years. Usually took me a couple of days to get over being mad before I started...
Stude M5 build