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Thread: 1940 Ford Tudor Build Thread
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    randyr's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    You could also mold a metal one to the fiberglas, right? Of course, one of the reasons to use a fuel door on these fenders is to make the filler tube "go away". If the fuel door is too large, it will probably have the opposite effect and draw more attention.
    On these fuel door kits, the surface sheet metal is tack welded to the box. It would be easy enough to remove the surface metal and mold the box to the underside of your fender and cut a hole in the fiberglas to use the metal fuel door. It would be small and match the contour of your fender, has a spring-loaded magnetic catch and should work fine. I installed one on my '37 fender (steel) but I welded it in. Just exploring options....
    prd_lg_2266fuel door.jpg
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  2. #2
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    You could also mold a metal one to the fiberglas, right? Of course, one of the reasons to use a fuel door on these fenders is to make the filler tube "go away". If the fuel door is too large, it will probably have the opposite effect and draw more attention.
    On these fuel door kits, the surface sheet metal is tack welded to the box. It would be easy enough to remove the surface metal and mold the box to the underside of your fender and cut a hole in the fiberglas to use the metal fuel door. It would be small and match the contour of your fender, has a spring-loaded magnetic catch and should work fine. I installed one on my '37 fender (steel) but I welded it in. Just exploring options....
    Attachment 59574
    Thanks Randy. I thought about using steel but was concerned with the shrink and expansion rates between the two, worried it could crack over time? I've got a ford dually fender I'm going to hack one out of and see if it'll even remotely fit. I'm guessing it won't because the fuel door is flat and I'm thinking the fender has a curve to it right there.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  3. #3
    randyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    Thanks Randy. I thought about using steel but was concerned with the shrink and expansion rates between the two, worried it could crack over time? I've got a ford dually fender I'm going to hack one out of and see if it'll even remotely fit. I'm guessing it won't because the fuel door is flat and I'm thinking the fender has a curve to it right there.
    I hear ya, Ryan but early Corvettes and various other fiberglas cars have steel imbedded in the glass at various points for strength, etc. so I'm not sure that the shrink/expansion rates will be that big a deal.

    Scooting's idea is similar to what I was suggesting except using the "behind the fender" portion of the unit from the dually fender you already have. The challenge with that idea is finding a hole saw that will cut a clean enough hole that you can still use the cutout for the lid. Will be cool to see what you come up with....
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  4. #4
    Scooting's Avatar
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    Hi, my opinion is to cut the 40 fender where you want the filler and use the cut out fender portion as the base lid. You could take the dually mechanism and add the "new" cutout 40 lid to the setup. Then, work the dually mechanism into your tank fill. Doing that, you will end up with a 40 lid that exactly matches the fender because it once was a part of the fender.

  5. #5
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    Outside the box... French a Jaguar or aftermarket flip up flush with the fender.
    Still want flush but tiny? Look on Ebay for pop up gas filler for Harley. They have kits where the button is flush with tank, push in on it, it pops up so you can unscrew ita harley gas.jpg.Aston-Martin-DB4-GT-Zagato_3.jpg
    40FordDeluxe likes this.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooting View Post
    Outside the box... French a Jaguar or aftermarket flip up flush with the fender.
    Still want flush but tiny? Look on Ebay for pop up gas filler for Harley. They have kits where the button is flush with tank, push in on it, it pops up so you can unscrew it.
    I really like that Harley pop up filler idea! Going to have to try to put that one in the memory banks where it doesn't fade away....
    Roger
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  7. #7
    Scooting's Avatar
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    You can purchase the pop up center by itself. Then if you wanted it in a fiberglass fender, get a chunk of fiberglass rod, drill the center, thread it, and mold it in. A bit of work to get it correct but it should be possible.

  8. #8
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    Ryan, I think you're worrying about something that can't happen. Differential expansion is by unit area, meaning that the bigger the piece the more expansion affects it. If you were joining a piece of steel ten feet long to a fiberglass panel then the expansion rates might be a concern, but you're looking at a piece a few inches, so any difference in expansion will be negligible, and will be absorbed by the panels. I wouldn't be concerned with grafting in a small steel fuel door assembly.
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  9. #9
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Thanks for the ideas and help guys. I like the Harley idea, but IMO it wouldn't be much different than what I have right now on the side of the fender. I have to dig out my parts list and go over it so I can get back on track. I want to add another bay to my shop before it snows so I can have a couple of projects torn down at one time without having to rearrange shop everytime something comes up. I best get crackin.
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    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  10. #10
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    [ I want to add another bay to my shop before it snows so I can have a couple of projects torn down at one time without having to rearrange shop everytime something comes up. I best get crackin. [/QUOTE]
    I personally have done this 3 times one of which was a complete 26x30 building STILL not enough room. I hope this works for you. I am at present thinking about an addition on the 26x30 building.
    Charlie
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  11. #11
    Scooting's Avatar
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    Ryan, you mold in the pop up outside to the fender flush with the surface, the cap fits flush. If painted the same color as the fender all you see is a circle a bit larger than a 50 cent piece even with the fender. All is flush and body color. To open, you push the circle and the circular center pops up so you can unscrew the cap. Big difference than the stock setup.
    Ray

  12. #12
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Ray, is that cap vented? The issue I have with the stock setup is that if the tank is full and the heat outside expands the gas in the tank, the cap vents gas on to the fender. If the fill tube is behind the fender the gas wouldn't make it on to the fender. I know that is kind of a moot point once the car is painted with quality paint, but it may be a while for that and I'd like to keep the gas off the fender if I can. The harley thing is still an option.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  13. #13
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    Charlie, thanks. I hope it works out too. I have two 20x30 bays but with the addition I will have a 20x60 area. I'll basically be adding another 20x30 on the back of my south bay. I'm sure it won't be enough, but it'll be more indoor room out of the cold and snow.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  14. #14
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    Right now I'm having trouble deciding if I want to use the 871 or put 2 small turbos on the 354. Thoughts?

    My biggest issue with the turbos is fitment. With the Hemi, I'll be cramped for room. The 871 will fit, I'm just wondering how bad mileage will suffer from 2 carbs on the 871.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #15
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    To even consider fuel consumption while thinking of superchargers and dual turbos is a bit of a oxymoron isn't it? One just doesn't equate (well) with the other. I'm doing the install of the dual quad intake over this winter and I'm just resigning myself to the fact that fuel consumption won't be great. Heck, with the one 4 barrel on there now it isn't much! But it's more for the reason that the pedal that connects to the carb spends to much time on the floor...

    WTH.. that is why I built it right?!?! LOL..

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