Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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I like the design. Cool to be able to adjust it up and down through an access panel. I'm far from an engineer, but looks sound.

Jerry- I know this must look pretty flimsy, but it really isn't. I'm going to make it out of 3/16 cold rolled steel. You are right the bolts will be 3/8" shoulder bolts. The car will weigh in between 2600 and 2800 pounds with a weight distribution of about 60% on the front end with the 5 degree rake. The bolts are rated at 10,280 pounds of sheer strength each, so I don't think there will be a problem. The tabs in the center are to keep everything located properly when I take the bolts out for an adjustment. Thank you for evaluating it though it's real easy to make a mistake, and I could still be wrong.


Steve & EVOLVO- Thanks, hopefully it will all work as planned.
Ken

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Ken,
Looks like a well thought out design to me. That's a beautiful drawing, I especially like the reflection. Do you do these renderings?
Alan

I draw them with crayons on paper towels, then a guy at work makes them correct.
Ken

It has a nice stance to it. I like the fenderless look too. Just gives it a mean raw look!

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

I draw them with crayons on paper towels, then a guy at work makes them correct.
Ken

I wish I had a "guy at work" that would do that for me

The body looks nice. If it were me, I would take some of the swoop out of the front of the frame.

...but I am sure you will pull it off .....and it will look amazing.

Don't know what the rear weight of the car is but that looks like you'd be carrying thr weight on 2 bolts ( possibly as small as 3/8) in a shear situation thru a cross member that was 1/8 to 3/16 thick????

Now, if this was a temporary crossmember for trial of the ride height/ride characteristics and you would then replace it with a more conventional cross member-----

Also---you don't need the tab or the slot to center the spring as the 2 bolts will do that anyway--and then it will be stronger without the slot---so the idea is starting to look better

Really like the adjustability in the rear, Ken, going to be nice having it to really fine tune the ride height and stance!!!! Way back in the "stone ages" we used an adjustable rear spring mounting (though not done with a lazer cutter) on a Super Mod we raced.... Started experimenting with it and learned a lot about forward bite and weight transfer.... Sure wish we'd of had lazer cutting in '66!!!! Used to think our pattern torch was "state of the art"!!!!! Will you have the same adjustability in shock mounts????

Hmmmm. Maybe add a cambered housing and a cage and get tuned up for some nostalgia racing on the dirt???? Sorry man, I have a sick and twisted mind.....

Ken, It's....................PERFECT!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Really like the adjustability in the rear, Ken, going to be nice having it to really fine tune the ride height and stance!!!! Way back in the "stone ages" we used an adjustable rear spring mounting (though not done with a lazer cutter) on a Super Mod we raced.... Started experimenting with it and learned a lot about forward bite and weight transfer.... Sure wish we'd of had lazer cutting in '66!!!! Used to think our pattern torch was "state of the art"!!!!! Will you have the same adjustability in shock mounts????

Hmmmm. Maybe add a cambered housing and a cage and get tuned up for some nostalgia racing on the dirt???? Sorry man, I have a sick and twisted mind.....

Dave we just over filled the air shocks to go up, and let air out to go down!

Ken, I like the look, did you have another cross member cut with different ride height. I know my luck the ride height would be between the holes allready cut.
BradC

Don-Thank you, I have to tell you this thing is really growing on me. I haven't ever had a street rod with so much room I''m normally cutting and chopping things for an extra inch, but there is still room for a back seat In this thing.

Dave- I made a flame cutter years ago, spent hours with a file making the patters perfect, 1/8" smaller than the finished piece because I had a 1/4" magnetic stylist. Does that ring a bell? Yes the shocks will be adjustable, I'm doing that now. Sorry no dirt for my baby

John- Thanks, How are you doing on yours?

Hot Rides-Thank you.

Steve-I have done that also!!!!!


Brad- I thought about that also, I have 3/4" on the centers of the holes, so I have a 3/8" spacer I can use to move the spring to line everything up in between.

Ken

Thanks for asking Ken.

I'm taking it back to work in the morning to lift the body off hopefully for the last time before final paint. It seems like it's been months of weekends doing "filling...priming...blocking...filling...priming...and blocking again". But it's now all straight, smooth, and all the body and hood gaps are tight. The frame and chassis parts will be dropped off very soon with Mikey at Ikon, for some RAL3004 Maroon Red powdercoat. I'm still not sure yet how to get it all sprayed, but I still have some time to decide. I built a 2" reciever hitch for it also. My son has a small teardrop camp trailer that I want to tow to Bonneville when the roadster gets back on the road.

Every time I'm at Ikon dropping off or picking up motorcycle parts I see lots of folding trailer chassis so business must be still OK for some people! By the way, you have a nice write up on your car trailer in Sept. Street Rodder.

As many others have already said, your "multiple builds" help keep us "slow pokes" moving forward on our builds. You put us to shame with the speed and quality of your efforts.

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Sorry no dirt for my baby

Ken

Oh heck, it'll wash off!!!! I've even got an old pair of Firestone diamonds, they'd look great on the rear slidin' sideways out of turn 3 on Hall of Fame night at Jackson!!!!!

Time for an update? This is a really neat build.

There is something to be said about having the right tools.

Nice work!