Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Hey, thanks actually it's not mine I borrowed it from a friend of mine and was out pulling wheelies and, well, we are trying to get it fixed before he wants it back
Ken

LOL, just busting your chops Ken. At least you have Scott making some money there to support your hot rod hobby

I would be at a loss with out him, it's very hard to find people like him, there are about 10 of them that have been with me for over 15 years. I tell them how much I appreciate them all the time.
If you are out about tomorrow we are having Cinco De Mayo BBQ. Stop bye for a good lunch if you have time.
Thanks for all your help.
Ken

Really nice stuff Ken. When you build a car, you build the whole thing. I like.
Tried to get in the show at the circle quite a while back. Filled up in Feb already.
About 15 years ago you just drove in. How it's changed.
Probably see you at the circle.
Ron

Ken very good stuff. Like Dave said, thanks for sharing these steps! Now if I ever build an old 32, I'll feel fine shelling out 10K for a frame! Seriously, like you guys said, without a good foundation the whole house falls down. Every time I look in the catalogues at frames I think Geeze that's expensive, now I know why!

Ron- It sure has grown, but it's also nice to see so many cars. I thought there was some really nice ones.
Steve- I just hope it helps someone, It's a lot of work to just look at your own stuff.

I have been bouncing around on this thing, starting things and not finishing anything. Here are some shots of the new 2X3X.120 wall inter structure frame work. I had to kick the front of it up to match the stock frame. I cut the center out of the model A cross member and raised it 1/2". anywhere I can get it lower I try and do it. I used some 1/4X1 1/2" flat bar to reinforce the frame where it is cut down by the toe board.
I finally figured out how to fixture the new frame rails to Weld them together. I went back to the lazier cutter and had him cut me out 4 more side rails out of 1/4" material and cut some 1/4" holes in them. Then I bent them the same configuration as the stock rails. Then cut some spacers and bolted them together, rights and lefts. Then welded the spacers to the rails and removed the bolts. Then all I had to do was weld the three pieces together.
I started laying out the tubing that I run inside the frame to house the fuel lines, electrical and brake lines. I use stainless tubing here so if some moister gets inside it won't rust. I also drill a small hole in the bottom of the lowest point in case some does get in there, I also drill a 1/4" hole in the lowest part of the frame in case I spring a leak. The lines aren't finished yet that's why they aren't straight.
Ken

and some more

and one more

Ken , any updates or did you let the month of May slip by without any progress.
I know the hotrod I used this month was 11horse rottotiller........LOL
BradC

Originally Posted by BradC

Ken , any updates or did you let the month of May slip by without any progress.
I know the hotrod I used this month was 11horse rottotiller........LOL
BradC

Yep, I bet he's out plowing the North 40 right now!

Don

Naw he's too busy doing three cars at once and running a buisness, he'll be back!

BradC- Nope I have been working on it, thanks for asking.

Don-Some times I wish I was doing things like that !

Steve- I'm always checking in.

Well here is where it's at. Finished putting in the new sub frame rails and am making the drive shaft hoop, exhaust hangers/holes and ladder bar cross member. That's all in one cross member, I always try to make one thing do at least two or more jobs.
The sub frame for the body is also on it's way, that's the 1X2" that's laying in the lowered frame rail. That will be welded into the body and the floor welded to that. Then the frame work around the a pillar and b pillar will all tie into that structure. It gets pretty flimsy when all the wood gets pulled out so that is all replaced with rectangular tubing.
I have a trial fit for the toe board also to see if the firewall will still come out when the body is on.
Ken

The cross member still has to be finished boxed in the upper photo

Nice, as always.
gonna steal a few ideas

thanks!

Josh

Streetwerkz-No problem that's why I put it on here. I think very few of my ideas are original, I'm pretty sure everything has already been done. It's usually a little of this and a little of that.


I have the body mounted now and part of the floor installed, and the ladder bars in. The floor will take more fitting for the transmission, but for now it serves as a stiffening part.
The next part is the rear cross member. I'm going to use a '40 Ford rear spring. The ride quality is very important to me, so it will be adjustable. That way when I get the spring rate right I can adjust the ride height without affecting the ride quality.
Ken

This is what I'm thinking for the adjustable rear cross member. There is a tab in the middle of the plate that centers the spring but allows it to move up and down as needed. Then on each side are the series of adjustment holes to set the height. There will be a 1/2" treaded bung welded to the top of the cross member where I can screw in a bolt. This will be accessed threw a little removable panel in the floor, so if I need to make an adjustment I can just remove the panel screw the bolt down that will unload the weight on the cross member so I can change the pin location without jacking the car up.
Ken

Sorry, I see I just blew this thing up.