Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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Along the same lines, but different, my 34 has a Vette composite mono spring. It cracked and splintered on the way to the Lou'ville Nats several years back. Rare but it happens. No serious damage and no injuries or death, so I replaced it with a new one. Never knew what happened, chalked it up to being an old and tired spring.

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

I had to go back to work, this economy stinks. I'm thinking to move to Florida!

The good Lord has finally answered my prayers, to live close to Ken Thurm, thank you, thank you, thank you.

Ken, after watching your work on the roadster, I can't wait to see what you have in store for the sedan.

Mike

I want to see what he does with the new truck project and the ardun engine!

Mike- You don't want to live to close to me, I make a lot of noise

Steve- It's coming

I bought a piece of 2X6X.120 wall rectangular tubing to build a chassis fixture. Cut it in halve and bolted it to my lay out table. I've decided to make a permanent frame fixture just for '32 frames. Every time I do this I wind up making a fixture so this one will fit all the different wheelbase configurations that I plan on building.
The sedan will have a 104" wheelbase, because I shortened the rear 1 1/2" and I always move the rear axle up half inch to center the wheel in the wheel well on hyboys. The truck will have 112" wheel base to make room for the 12 cylinder Ardun. I want to build a full fendered 3 window some day, that will be stock 106" and another hyboy 105 1/2". So all the dimensions that are on the tubing will be engraved on the mill so they don't go away.
Starting at the rear, this will be cut and raised up to be parallel to the main section of the frame rails. So after every thing is level, the back of the frame is at a 10.4 degree angle. So moving forward where the cut will be made there is a vertical line then go 5.2 degrees both directions. I chose this spot because when the frame is raised at that radius it moves the axle center line forward the 2" I need to shorten it.Where the cut is made it will only be cut down to the bottom of the vertical part of the frame then i will just raise it up until the pie shape is closed then weld it back together. So the rear section will never be completely separated. I will show you later how all this will be reinforced, not just a butt weld.
I called a shop that bends 2X3X.120 wall tubing and ordered the parts for the K member.
Back at it tomorrow.
Ken

The rest of them

Mike- You don't want to live to close to me, I make a lot of noise


Ken, I could live real close, that's not noise, that's music to my ears. All I can say is, turn it up a little, it's not loud enough yet.

BTW, I changed plans on my project, I ditched the LT1. I picked up a complete LS1 & 4L60E combo today.

Mike

The next step is to cut the frame. I'm going to channel it 4" in the front and
3" in toward the rear. I will take 3" out of the frame in the center of the car. That way I won't loose anymore head room than the chop took away. then I will lower the front of the car over the frame 1" at the cowl only. This will give the car an extra 1" of rake and Lower the height in front 1" which will lower my grill shell an additional 2" and keep all the body lines straight.
Then I cut the 1 1/8" pie cut out of the rear section of the frame to raise it
6" in the rear.
When I cut the side rails out I weld a piece of 1 1/4X1/8 flat bar to tie the but weld back together.
I have cut 4" out of the firewall. So the toe panels angle will match where I cut the frame. So when I put the floor in It will give me the stock length toe panel.
I hope the photo's help with this explanation! I'm doing this and I'm having a hard time following this
also there is a shot of how much the front rails will be raised.
Ken

Here is more

Some good info, Ken! Thanks for posting it!!! I probably have as much money in my chassis table as I do in some of the frames I've built on it...but it's worth every penny I have in it. I've had a bunch of different fictures and jigs, had one for deuces, sold it to a guy in Montana a few years back... It was specific for 32's and had many of the same features you've incorporated in yours. No matter what it is you're building, IMO nothing is more critical then to have a good firm table to build the frame on....If the frame and suspension isn't right it just doesn't really matter how the rest of the car is done!!!! There's a whole lot more involved in a build then big horsepower and shiny paint. Your very well documented build threads are proof!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to share all your first rate build information with us!

Hey......a nice KX450F Kawasaki motocross bike in the background! LOL

Hey, thanks actually it's not mine I borrowed it from a friend of mine and was out pulling wheelies and, well, we are trying to get it fixed before he wants it back
Ken

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Hey, thanks actually it's not mine I borrowed it from a friend of mine and was out pulling wheelies and, well, we are trying to get it fixed before he wants it back
Ken

LOL, just busting your chops Ken. At least you have Scott making some money there to support your hot rod hobby

I would be at a loss with out him, it's very hard to find people like him, there are about 10 of them that have been with me for over 15 years. I tell them how much I appreciate them all the time.
If you are out about tomorrow we are having Cinco De Mayo BBQ. Stop bye for a good lunch if you have time.
Thanks for all your help.
Ken

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Some good info, Ken! Thanks for posting it!!! I probably have as much money in my chassis table as I do in some of the frames I've built on it...but it's worth every penny I have in it. I've had a bunch of different fictures and jigs, had one for deuces, sold it to a guy in Montana a few years back... It was specific for 32's and had many of the same features you've incorporated in yours. No matter what it is you're building, IMO nothing is more critical then to have a good firm table to build the frame on....If the frame and suspension isn't right it just doesn't really matter how the rest of the car is done!!!! There's a whole lot more involved in a build then big horsepower and shiny paint. Your very well documented build threads are proof!!!!! Thanks for taking the time to share all your first rate build information with us!

Dave, thank you.
I also believe that if the foundation isn't sound the house falls down. It's worth all the work, but I also want to say any one can duplicate a nice fixture at home. It doesn't have to look like mine to be a good foundation, it just has to be level and strong.
Ken

Really nice stuff Ken. When you build a car, you build the whole thing. I like.
Tried to get in the show at the circle quite a while back. Filled up in Feb already.
About 15 years ago you just drove in. How it's changed.
Probably see you at the circle.
Ron