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Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #286
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Any component added to a circuit adds to the resistance of that circuit. Adding a Ford solenoid in series with a Chevrolet solenoid, except for a safety feature, is a band aid at best. If the engineers at GM thought that by adding a Ford solenoid in series with a GM starter and solenoid would work better I'm sure they would have done so years ago. There are a number of possible causes if the engine won't start, starter won't spin, and they are:
    1 Bad or loose grounds
    2 Corroded cable(s)
    3 Too small gauge wire running from the battery to the solenoid
    4 Badly worn brushes in the starter
    5 Arced contact in the solenoid
    I have encountered all 5 of those things in my almost 60 years of messing with cars and trucks.
    Mike P likes this.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  2. #287
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    Just my 2 cents on the solenoid discussion.

    “…..If the engineers at GM thought that by adding a Ford solenoid in series with a GM starter and solenoid would work better I'm sure they would have done so years ago……”

    Ken as I recall at one time GM did sell remote solenoid kits for hot start issues over the parts counter……of course that was at least 20 years ago.

    I run a Ford solenoid on a lot of the stuff I build especially GMs. The experience I’ve had with heat soak issues on GMs (especially Chevrolets from the 50s-70s) is that when it heat soaks you can still short across the battery lead and solenoid terminals at the starter and it will crank. This has always lead me to the belief that while a heat soaked solenoid (higher resistance to activate) is partially the problem the main issue is higher resistance in the wire that activates the solenoid.

    I’ve tried running a heavier solenoid activation wire to the starter on a few occasions and only had mixed results. Using the remote solenoid has always eliminated any heat soak non-crank issues I’ve run into. When I wire the Ford style solenoid I run a busbar/heavy jumper wire between the Solenoid terminal and battery terminal on the starter and relocate the solenoid wire/charging wires and battery cable to the Ford solenoid. Basically when the remote solenoid is activated the solenoid on the starter will receive full voltage/amperage thru the busbar/jumper wire.

    Of course there are a few other benefits. It makes a convenient place to hook up a remote starter switch when you need to crank the engine over, it eliminates having a live battery cable running down by the exhaust and you only have the battery cable to remove when you need to remove the starter.

    Anyway like I said just my 2 cents.



    .
    NTFDAY likes this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  3. #288
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just my 2 cents on the solenoid discussion.

    “…..If the engineers at GM thought that by adding a Ford solenoid in series with a GM starter and solenoid would work better I'm sure they would have done so years ago……”

    Here's mine...

    I know I sure have changed an awful lot of GM starters compared to just a few Ford's. Matter a fact, if it wasn't for GM, I wouldn't have much business in my shop I had.
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  4. #289
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    " .........if it wasn't for GM, I wouldn't have much business in my shop I had......."



    Come to think of it


    Before Subaru came out with their Outback commercial Chevy trucks had one that used the same basic closing line...... something along the lines of:

    "90% of Chevrolet trucks sold in the last decade are still on the road"

    I had a friend who would grin every time that commercial came on........until one day when I said "well at least 10% were able to make it home"




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    NTFDAY, DennyW, johnboy and 2 others like this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  5. #290
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Exactly... True though. I don't dislike Chevy's, but, when I went on a trip, I drove my Ford...

  6. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW View Post

    I know I sure have changed an awful lot of GM starters compared to just a few Ford's. Matter a fact, if it wasn't for GM, I wouldn't have much business in my shop I had.
    I don’t know, I worked in an independent garage for a few years, and I remember Ford Escorts coming in on the wrecker nearly every day. 99% of the time they had either a broken timing belt or a bad ignition module. The worst part I remember about GM’s was constantly changing starters on Chevettes. What a miserable job. I haven’t touched a Chevette in about 20 years, and I hope I never see another one. lol

    On the Ford solenoid thing, I “think” Mike P is on the right track. I think at least part of the problem was too much voltage drop along the ignition switch and the small starter wire. Chevy engineers did a lot of things right, but mounting the solenoid on the starter, and near the exhaust, was not one of their better ideas. Making valve covers with only four bolts in them was also not a brilliant idea.
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    Steve

  7. #292
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    I grew up die hard Chevy, then I tried Fords which have never disappointed me. Now I have 2 Dodges, a Chevy, a Ford and a Hyundai on the yard. For reliability, all brands have treated me pretty well. For non critical parts falling off around me, GM takes first prize in that category.
    Mike P, NTFDAY and DennyW like this.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  8. #293
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    I finished the welding on the rear axle brackets. I changed the king pins and all 4 wheel cylinders, painted both axles, and installed them.

    I placed an order with McMaster Car, and got grade 8 bolts and nuts (metal locknuts) for everything on the suspension and steering.

    I fired up the engine and made a bunch of noise for a couple of minutes!

    I fiberglassed the floor in from the top and bottom, and made a metal bracket to stiffen the ride side of the body behind the door.

    Today I’m working on wooding the body. I’m using 2x4’s, and doing plenty of cutting and grinding to get them to match the curves of the body. I’m going to use bondo to stick them in, and then fiberglass them. I like my seat back tilted more than most, and I’m willing to sacrifice a bit of leg room to get it that way. I built some shelves behind the seat to store some tools and such.

    FDB2591F-F19C-4F82-ABDD-D82158328516.jpeg


    F600A9E0-95F2-43A4-89AD-AB0918CDFC57.jpeg

    DC9BAE66-10C4-4047-8154-681E73DBA6E5.jpeg

    6717676D-2CE0-4C7F-B894-D0BF7583CD8B.jpeg
    Mike P, NTFDAY, 53 Chevy5 and 2 others like this.
    Steve

  9. #294
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    I like watching these glass builds, it's a learning thing for me.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  10. #295
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    Yesterday I finished all the itchy messy fiberglass work. Then I flipped it over and covered the fiberglass resin with truck bed liner.

    B986C114-9292-427A-B48F-796F63D9FE24.jpeg
    Hotrod46 likes this.
    Steve

  11. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5 View Post
    I like watching these glass builds, it's a learning thing for me.
    This is the first time I’ve done any significant amount of fiberglass work. If you do some reading up about it first, it’s really not rocket science to learn how to do it.
    Hotrod46 likes this.
    Steve

  12. #297
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    I get itchy just thinking about the glass work I've got to do sometime in the near future! Good to see some updates.
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    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

  13. #298
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    After changing my mind about a dozen times over the wheels and tires, I finally bought the fronts. I went with some US Wheels rat rod wheels, 15 x 5 inch. I got a pair of 165/80R15 Hankook tires from Wally Mart. These are made for 1960’s VW Beatles. Coker makes some great looking tires, but these things were only $52 each, and they’ll work just fine.

    B9780FC8-70DD-4836-961F-3BC8C31307B8.jpeg
    Steve

  14. #299
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    One suggestion on tires. My T was very sensitive to front tire balance. If they got out of balance, the front would get a strange bounce at certain speeds. I also learned to jack the front up if it was not going to be used for a long period, like over the winter. Otherwise, the tires would flat spot and bounce like crazy. With almost no weight on the front, it was almost impossible to get enough heat in them to round them out again. I went through a couple of set of fronts before figuring that out.
    NTFDAY likes this.
    Mike

    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
    I'm following my pass​ion

  15. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Driver50x View Post
    After changing my mind about a dozen times over the wheels and tires, I finally bought the fronts. I went with some US Wheels rat rod wheels, 15 x 5 inch. I got a pair of 165/80R15 Hankook tires from Wally Mart. These are made for 1960’s VW Beatles. Coker makes some great looking tires, but these things were only $52 each, and they’ll work just fine.

    Attachment 71611

    Reminds me of 550/15's. I ran a few sets on the front of a 40 2dr sedan and a 36 5 window coupe.
    Driver50x likes this.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

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