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Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #211
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    I built a dash/windshield support bar. It bolts to a couple brackets that I welded to the frame. The two lower metal plates rest against the back of the fiberglass dash. The other two plates bolt on from the front of the dash and “sandwich “ the dashboard. Later, I will attach the windshield to the two front plates.

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    Steve

  2. #212
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    Here is how you notch pipe or tubing when you are too cheap to buy a tubing notcher.

    I use a sawzall to make a pair of 45 degree cuts in the end of the tube. Then I attach a vice grips to each of the “notches” and bend it it back and forth until it breaks off. Then I use a bench grinder to finish shaping the notch. Hold another piece of tubing against the notch to see where the metal needs to be ground off.

    This technique is actually pretty quick and easy and accurate after just a little practice.




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    Steve

  3. #213
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    I cut nine inches off the transmission fluid dipstick tube, and the dipstick, to make it look cleaner. I used a center punch to put new fill lines on the dipstick.


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    Steve

  4. #214
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Good tip on notching.

    And nice work on the frame / body support, 1 question tho.. will the 2 plates on the dash be in the final installation?

  5. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Good tip on notching.

    And nice work on the frame / body support, 1 question tho.. will the 2 plates on the dash be in the final installation?

    Yes. The windshield will be mounted similar to this car.


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    Steve

  6. #216
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    On my dipsticks, I like to drill small holes for the levels. The oil will show itself in the holes better, especially when the oil is very clean.
    johnboy and Hotrod46 like this.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  7. #217
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    That’s a good idea Firebird.
    Steve

  8. #218
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    That all looks very good to me. I've done tube notching before and it turned out in the fair - poor range.
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    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  9. #219
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    Nice work on the bucket!
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    Ryan
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  10. #220
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    I made my steering column out of a piece of exhaust pipe and some 1/4” plate. The shaft is 3/4” hot rolled steel. I used a lawnmower flanged wheel bearing to support the top of the steering shaft, and a Sweet Manufacturing u-joint between the bottom of the shaft and the gearbox. The 1963 Chevy Nova steering wheel was a $10 treasure from a swap meet.

    I also got my seat bottom made. The base is made out of 3/4” plywood. I used a 2x4 for the front seat riser. The webbing is from a tie down strap I picked up on the side of the freeway. After spending a bit of time sitting in the seat with me right foot in the “gas pedal” position, I realized that with my long legs I will need a good amount of thigh/bolster support to keep my leg from going numb. I added a pretty tall bolster support. This may get adjusted down or up a bit later on, after I add the foam.

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    Steve

  11. #221
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    That seat looks like something we used to have in an old cage cart. My butt hurts thinking about it. Do you plan to weld the lower u joint to your shaft or?
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
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  12. #222
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    Hey Ryan, there will be foam, and upholstery, on the top of that seat.

    Yes, I am welding the u joint to the shaft, and using a set screw to secure it to the steering box.
    Steve

  13. #223
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    I’ve seen several pictures of T-Buckets that have been in relatively minor fender benders, and have had the entire body and floor torn right off the frame. I want a solid attachment of my floor. I drilled eight mounting holes through the floor and frame rails. I also added a 3 inch wide piece of flat stock over the floor in the rear. This will be under the seat, and I will also attach my seat belts to it.

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    Steve

  14. #224
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    I'm glad you're thinking of some safety, I just seen a picture of it T Bucket that was in a moderate accident, and the driver died.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  15. #225
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    I’m building most of the parts for this ride myself, but I made an exception with the brake pedal. Speedway Moters offers a brake pedal assembly with the master cylinder for $150. It looked like a pretty big timesaver to me (versus making one) so I went that route.

    I mounted the pedal as far forward as I reasonably could, while still allowing enough pedal travel to get the full travel out of the master cylinder. I heated up the pedal and bent it two inches to the left, in order to free up a little space between the gas and brake pedals.

    The speedway unit is built to mount the master cylinder a few inches behind the pedal assembly, but due to the rack and pinion mounting, I did not have room to do it that way. So I decided to mount the master cylinder a couple feet back, it will be underneath the seat.

    I made the master cylinder mounting bracket out of 3/8” steel. There is also a brace supporting the lower corner of this bracket, which is hard to see in the picture.

    I am a bit spoiled - I like working in my air conditioned garage during the Florida summer. The down side to this is with the doors closed I can’t do much welding, while still being able to breath. I’m just tacking stuff together for now. I’ll do then the finnish welding on a cooler day. Then I will take everything apart and flip it upside down to do all the welding on the bottom, as well as the painting.

    Thanks for looking.

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    Steve

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