Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup

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Here is how you notch pipe or tubing when you are too cheap to buy a tubing notcher.

I use a sawzall to make a pair of 45 degree cuts in the end of the tube. Then I attach a vice grips to each of the “notches” and bend it it back and forth until it breaks off. Then I use a bench grinder to finish shaping the notch. Hold another piece of tubing against the notch to see where the metal needs to be ground off.

This technique is actually pretty quick and easy and accurate after just a little practice.




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I cut nine inches off the transmission fluid dipstick tube, and the dipstick, to make it look cleaner. I used a center punch to put new fill lines on the dipstick.


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Good tip on notching.

And nice work on the frame / body support, 1 question tho.. will the 2 plates on the dash be in the final installation?

Originally Posted by 34_40

Good tip on notching.

And nice work on the frame / body support, 1 question tho.. will the 2 plates on the dash be in the final installation?

Yes. The windshield will be mounted similar to this car.


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On my dipsticks, I like to drill small holes for the levels. The oil will show itself in the holes better, especially when the oil is very clean.

That’s a good idea Firebird.

That all looks very good to me. I've done tube notching before and it turned out in the fair - poor range.

Nice work on the bucket!

I made my steering column out of a piece of exhaust pipe and some 1/4” plate. The shaft is 3/4” hot rolled steel. I used a lawnmower flanged wheel bearing to support the top of the steering shaft, and a Sweet Manufacturing u-joint between the bottom of the shaft and the gearbox. The 1963 Chevy Nova steering wheel was a $10 treasure from a swap meet.

I also got my seat bottom made. The base is made out of 3/4” plywood. I used a 2x4 for the front seat riser. The webbing is from a tie down strap I picked up on the side of the freeway. After spending a bit of time sitting in the seat with me right foot in the “gas pedal” position, I realized that with my long legs I will need a good amount of thigh/bolster support to keep my leg from going numb. I added a pretty tall bolster support. This may get adjusted down or up a bit later on, after I add the foam.

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That seat looks like something we used to have in an old cage cart. My butt hurts thinking about it. Do you plan to weld the lower u joint to your shaft or?

Hey Ryan, there will be foam, and upholstery, on the top of that seat.

Yes, I am welding the u joint to the shaft, and using a set screw to secure it to the steering box.

I’ve seen several pictures of T-Buckets that have been in relatively minor fender benders, and have had the entire body and floor torn right off the frame. I want a solid attachment of my floor. I drilled eight mounting holes through the floor and frame rails. I also added a 3 inch wide piece of flat stock over the floor in the rear. This will be under the seat, and I will also attach my seat belts to it.

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I'm glad you're thinking of some safety, I just seen a picture of it T Bucket that was in a moderate accident, and the driver died.

I’m building most of the parts for this ride myself, but I made an exception with the brake pedal. Speedway Moters offers a brake pedal assembly with the master cylinder for $150. It looked like a pretty big timesaver to me (versus making one) so I went that route.

I mounted the pedal as far forward as I reasonably could, while still allowing enough pedal travel to get the full travel out of the master cylinder. I heated up the pedal and bent it two inches to the left, in order to free up a little space between the gas and brake pedals.

The speedway unit is built to mount the master cylinder a few inches behind the pedal assembly, but due to the rack and pinion mounting, I did not have room to do it that way. So I decided to mount the master cylinder a couple feet back, it will be underneath the seat.

I made the master cylinder mounting bracket out of 3/8” steel. There is also a brace supporting the lower corner of this bracket, which is hard to see in the picture.

I am a bit spoiled - I like working in my air conditioned garage during the Florida summer. The down side to this is with the doors closed I can’t do much welding, while still being able to breath. I’m just tacking stuff together for now. I’ll do then the finnish welding on a cooler day. Then I will take everything apart and flip it upside down to do all the welding on the bottom, as well as the painting.

Thanks for looking.

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I had belts in mine and was glad I had them on a couple of occasions. I read of a guy that had a minor fender bender in a bucket and nearly went over the windshield. I liked them on curvy roads, since they kept me from sliding around in the seat. Like you, mine were attached to the body of the bucket.

Of course, the down side is the possibility of getting the car upside down and having the belts pin you in. Since it's very hard to fit an effective roll bar to bucket, without the RB being a greater danger than a wreck, it's a chance you take.