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Thread: Low-budget/T-Bucket Pickup
          
   
   

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  1. #241
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    I think we are all glad you left that one alone.
    Steve

  2. #242
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    A matching speedo. There's a joke in there but I'm leaving it be.
    There's the voice of experience??? rofl

  3. #243
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    I had planned on mounting a Mustang II floor shifter in this thing. After I realized how much precious floor space that was going to use up, I switched gears on that plan.

    I built myself a custom shifter assembly. All of the commercially available shifters that I saw place the shifter near the rear of the transmission. I wanted it towards the front of the trans for two reasons - 1) it frees up some foot room on the floor, and 2) it mimics the look of an old top loader transmission.

    I made the main frame out of 1/2 inch square tubing, and the shift lever out of 1/2 inch round stock, and a few other metal scraps laying around the shop. I welded a 3/8th inch bolt to the top of the shifter, and screwed on an old cut glass door knob that was resting in one of my junk drawers. It might be a little hard to tell from the pictures, but the shift linkage goes from the drivers side of the shifter back to a bell crank, and then forward to the transmission.

    On the passenger side of the shifter I built a reverse lock out mechanism. It consists of a “slider” assembly that has a hole in it for park, and a slot for drive and neutral. The spring loaded pin is actuated by a cable (a bicycle brake cable) which will run to a knob located on the seat riser. This will prevent the shifter from being accidentaly bumped into reverse. It will also act as a theft deterrent. It will be impossible to get the car out of park without knowing how and where the release knob is.

    I spent a good amount of time fiddling around with this thing, getting it to clear everything and getting the geometry worked out. I went through a couple design changes. The final design is not real pretty, but it will be covered up anyway, and it works great. This is more fun to me than ordering a part from a catalog.

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    Mike P and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Steve

  4. #244
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    Nice work! I can relate on how much time and how many times you have to revise something like this. I'e built a couple in 4x4 trucks when I put a dodge trans in a chevy. Nice work!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  5. #245
    Driver50x's Avatar
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    Thanks Ryan. I’m happy with the outcome of the shifter location. It was worth the time I spent on it.
    Steve

  6. #246
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Interesting design, and apparently an effective solution in the concept.
    Good work.
    Driver50x likes this.

  7. #247
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
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    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. It appears completely robust to include all synnonyms:

    Solid, strong, rigid, firm; and shiny!
    Driver50x likes this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  8. #248
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    I took the battery out of my Camaro to get some measurements, and built my battery box out of 1 inch angle iron and flat stock.

    Later this month, I have a week off work, so I should be able to get a bunch of work done on this thing.




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    Hotrod46, 34_40 and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    Steve

  9. #249
    53 Chevy5's Avatar
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    That looks a lot like my battery box, although I suppose there's only so many different ways you can make a square box. I put a hinge on mine to swing it down to access the battery.
    Driver50x likes this.
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  10. #250
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    I got my driveshaft shortened this week.

    The first thing I did was some measuring. First I slid the driveshaft into the transmission all the way, and then pulled it back out 3/4”. I then took a measurement from the rear of the front u-joint to the rear of the rear u-joint mounting surface on the rear axle yoke. This gives me the required center to center length. 30 1/2” in this case. I then used the same technique to measure the current driveshaft length, 51 3/4” in this case. 51.75 - 30.5 = 21.25 (The amount I will need to shorten it).

    I then used a file to mark the length of the shaft, and the rear yoke, so I know how to reindex the yoke during reassembly, and keep it close to balanced. The factory balance weight on this driveshaft is near the front, so I just left it alone.

    I then ground flat the factory weld on the rear yoke. I used a 4 1/2” cutoff wheel to make about a 1/16” deep cut all the way around the weld. Using a hammer, I hit the yoke until it popped off.

    I then stuck the shaft in my chop saw and cut off the 21 1/4 inches. Next, using the line I previously scribed to line things up, I tapped the yoke back into the driveshaft. It took a fair amount of hammering and fooling around to get it back together.

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    Steve

  11. #251
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    I then bolted the driveshaft into the car. My rear yoke mounting bolt holes were pretty rusty, so first I ran a tap through those threads. I then clamped a piece of steel to one of my frame rails, so that the end of it nearly touched the rear of the drive shaft. I jacked up the rear end, and spun the tires so that I could see any runout in the shaft. I did a little fine tuning with the hammer, and moved the shaft and yoke around until the shaft had nearly zero runout. I used a piece of masking tape and a magic marker to help sort things out. I then tack welded the shaft to the yoke, and checked the runout again. It was good, so I took the shaft out and welded it up solid.


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    Steve

  12. #252
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 23 Track roadster
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    Your driveshaft shortening method is exactly the same as mine. I've been doing it this way for over 40 years and never had a problem (documented in my track-T and '32 Ford threads). I've also built a couple of shifters; the pic below is the one in my coupe. Like you, I enjoy building my own components when and where I can - it's the true old school hot rod way in my opinion.

    Congrats on your continued progress - it won't be long before that first test-drive.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  13. #253
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    Thanks Jim.

    Yep, I copied the driveshaft shortening procedure straight out of your track T thread. This was my first time doing it.

    One of my next steps will be copying your ‘32 shock/headlight stanchions. I hope you don’t have a patent on those.

    Do you have any more pictures of that shifter? That looks like a nice simple design. I’m very happy with mine, but it was a lot of work.
    Steve

  14. #254
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    Glad to see someone else benefitting from my postings. They say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, so thank you.

    No, I don't have a patent on anything. LOL You can make those headlight stanchions any height you need for your application. Also, you can tilt them in or out as you need. I suggest making a cardboard mockup of one and have someone hold it in place with a headlight so you can stand back and determine if you need more/less height and more/less outward tilt. Just be sure you have enough space to get the headlight stud and the shock stud both in without hitting each other.


    I only have a couple of pics of the shifter I made for my '31 Coupe (attached below). This is the second one I made (made one very for my C-Cab delivery years ago) and it works nicely. I discovered when I made the first one that the Turbo 350 trans has a little round recess on either side. A 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 nut can be tapped in there with a hammer with just a little interference and it stays! I bent a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" flat stock to fit closely to the trans case and drilled the ends to bolt to the aforementioned nuts. Another piece of 1/8" flat stock is welded to the cross piece so it bolts to the hole in the tab near the tailshaft. This is the bracket/support for the shifter.

    Using a couple of 1/2" diameter shoulder bolts and some nuts with the threads drilled out, I made a little piece that pivots forward and back and also side to side. To this I welded the arm that moves the linkage back and forth and I welded the shifter lever to the piece that allows it to move sideways. On the side of the lever I welded a tab made from 3/16" flat stock and I also bent a piece of 3/16" flat stock to form the "gate". I tacked the gate piece to the support temporarily, hooked up the linkage, and then moved the shifter through its pattern so I could mark where the gears were. I cut the tack welds and took the gate off so I could grind the notches for the tab to fall into. Park and Drive are the deepest notches. When I was done grinding and filing I tacked the gate back in place, checked to make sure it was correct, and then welded it solidly to the bracket/support. The last thing was to drill a small hole in the tab on the lever and another small hole in the retainer washer and I used a stiff spring from an old headlight bucket to put spring tension on the lever. To select a gear, pull the lever to the left and move it back or forward as necessary. I think I spent about $12 for shoulder bolts and a couple of 3/8" Heim joints. Everything else was stuff I had lying around.
    Attached Images
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  15. #255
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    I am using '65 VW Beatle rear shocks. I'm thinking these should have soft enough valving to give a decent ride on this car, plus they have about 6" of travel.



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    Steve

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