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Here's a little update. I wanted to adapt the rear roll down window without
using the rear shelf assembly that I'm not using to gain more room. Here's a pic
of the original pieces, note the hole in the face of the drain pan which accepts
the bottom fastener of the window crank assembly.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psjagnsob4.jpg[/IMG]
Here's the new pan installed, it has the matching window crank hole like the
original.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psbu4hiobo.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I used 3/8" plastic tube which connects to a piece of stainless tube dumping
out thru floor pan. I had provided for this while building support tubing.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0pzvnfx1.jpg[/IMG]
Here's the finished panel installed with window mechanism.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psyskjxnz5.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I decided to make a couple pieces to finish off the sides of the rear window.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pszcarstsk.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psxyfffxqu.jpg[/IMG]
I made provisions to attach seat belts.
That's it for now, Rich
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That is some seriously nice work! Your inside paneling remonds me of the guts of an airplane. Too cool.
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X's 2!! Wow that's nice!!
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x3 Beautiful work! Like the Riveted look of the panels, very much like an old aircraft.
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Thanks for the kind comments guy's! Been busy on some little side projects, need to
get back on the Coupe.
Rich
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Just posting a pic with the seat in, now I can sit, and make car noises!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0cuzxzww.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Awesome! What's the seat out of?
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Robert:
It's the middle seat out of a Plymouth Voyager van, late 90's to mid 2000's. I spray dyed
the seat till I can get it redone in a traditional style with 3" pleats. Paid 45$ at the junk yard.
Rich
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The seat looks great in there!
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I feel this belongs in my build thread so I'm posting it here. A friend of mine sent
me a link to an article on Embossing. It had given him the idea to press the Plymouth
logo into his valve covers. Scotty has a 48 Plymouth Coupe that has a Hemi in it.
Of course they don't make valve covers like this which is the whole idea! He
wanted to know if I would help, Hell yes! Here's a link to the post that he cited:
How to Emboss Lettering into Sheet Metal - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Iv'e used urathane in the past, but usually use steel male, and female dies.
This article shows male dies with the urathane used as the female die
on 20 gauge. I like to reverse the process with heavier gauge (18) and use the
urathane as the male die with steel female dies.
Why use urathane instead of steel dies? There is no need to drill locating holes
to line the dies up on odd shaped pieces like the valve covers. He would like to
chrome the covers later. Lots of uses for urathane!
Here's what were trying to accomplish, the pic below shows the valve cover with
the logo marked where he wants it. Below is the 16 gauge female pattern taped
to a blank test piece of 18 gauge. (valve cover is 18 gauge) Notice the small pieces
taped to the 'P', and 'O' to complete the letter. Do not use more than one layer of
tape as it will imprint the valve cover.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psbnwzjq4o.jpg[/IMG]
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Here I'm pressing the test pattern. Female pattern on bottom, 18 gauge blank
on top of that with 1/8" 90 durometer polyurathane on top of that. I start on
the taped letters to lock them in so won't move. I move back, and forth over the
letters in 3 stages increasing pressure till I max out my 50 ton press. I think the
minimum needed would be 20 tons? The more the better definition. As it is I
want better definition for the finished product.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pss9whafji.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I now have moved to the work bench, removed the urathane to expose the
test piece that still has the female die under it. I clamp both sides of a single
letter to the bench so there is no movement. I made a corking tool out of
an old chisel by welding a small piece of flat stock to it that I shaped to just
fit the width of the letters in the female die. No sharp edges. I work each
letter with the tool to sharpen the definition, and get a feel for the tool.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pswwwn5ug8.jpg[/IMG]
Here's a pic of the tool.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psvukmgqiy.jpg[/IMG]
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Here's the finished test piece laid on the valve cover.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psqqhyzndm.jpg[/IMG]
Here's a close up of the letters.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psxcvjurjc.jpg[/IMG]
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No turning back now! Here the female die is taped to the valve cover. The
edges of the die are rounded to prevent imprinting edge marks. I can't
stress this enough!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pspkcelago.jpg[/IMG]
The odd shape of the valve cover made for awkward setup. The apron fixture it's
sitting on has been milled, and polished, with the edges rounded. When I was chasing the letters on the bench it was under the test piece.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5yawl4g6.jpg[/IMG]
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This pic shows the urathane being pressed using a 1/2" thick polished piece
of steel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psqmvufwep.jpg[/IMG]
Finished pressing, and moved to the bench. Here I have just finished the 'T', and
uncovered the 'U'. I now cover the 'T', and reclamp the cover.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psaumzg2jd.jpg[/IMG]
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All finished, very happy with them!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psjyv9xeb7.jpg[/IMG]
This shows the setup on mine. Of course I'm stealing his idea! LOL
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psstcj7gsq.jpg[/IMG]
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Here's mine after a light bead blasting. Tried several designs before settling
on this one.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psrsgc0qmg.jpg[/IMG]
Here's those pieces I used during the embossing. I ran those pieces thru my
milling machine, than DA'ed them, finished by rounding the edges.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psqfijcjxx.jpg[/IMG]
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The finished covers with a coat of etch prime.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psnfxpox05.jpg[/IMG]
Really enjoyed this project! I made the patterns on my mill, and than used a
small air file to square the corners on those letters that required it.
Take care, Rich
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As always,THANKS for making the time to share the projects.
"Stamping" those letters was a way cool project. Great ingenuity!
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I remember seeing your valve covers and thinking how awesome they were! Great work!
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Have been busy preparing for pulling body off frame. I want to have everything
test fitted for final reassembly later. I fabbed a new arm rest from hard wood
that will be covered when I get the seat redone. Wanted to be sure it was in
a comfortable position with shifter. It slips in, and out easily.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pslxja4pyn.jpg[/IMG]
I bent up the stainless lines for the master cylinder. I ran one to the hyd clutch, and
added a hose between the slave for vibration. The main line to feed the brakes is
tied in to a frame mounted block (Tee) that will let me remove body, and have a
starting point to run the rest of the lines.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pshpgxqea4.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I tried running the exhaust with the body on, but this old body didn't like the
constant up, and down under the car! So that I could get it exactly where I
wanted it with the body off I tacked exit pieces in the finished position. It
will be a lot easier sitting on the frame! There is so little room at the rear cross
area I decided to run them out by the rear tires. I could go under the rear end,
but don't like that idea. I can always change later.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psi00b8fqp.jpg[/IMG]
My son, and grand son came by so I put them to work. We got the body pulled, and
moved to the other side of garage.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psya3slfo6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ysvquhl.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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The splash aprons need to be located exactly to fit up correctly to fenders.
I drilled 1/8" line up holes at each end before removal.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pshqluzjmv.jpg[/IMG]
Got everything prepped, and took them over to my friends shop to shoot.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psjocr2yod.jpg[/IMG]
I took Roberts advise, and shot them with SPI Epoxy primer. Went on great, the price is right, and they were good people to deal with.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pstmqrxceo.jpg[/IMG]
I need to get busy, and finish up the exhaust, brake lines, and fuel line. The frame
will be ready to paint than!
Rich
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Re: The exhaust . . . hanging pipes with angled ladder bars is a bear, isn't it? It's even more fun with a channeled body. Ask me how I know.
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Nice looking primer you have there!
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Jack, we must love pain we keep doing this stuff! LOL
Robert, many thanks for the great info you post which led me to SPI. Iv'e got my buddy using it also, and
have joined the Forum over there.
Rich
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Pain, yes. As soon as the memory fades, we must have more.
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Love this thread. The cover stamping is very cool!
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Wow
Rich,
I have just spent several hours glued to my computer looking at this project from the very beginning.:):) I don't know how I missed this one. Your metal fabing and metal work is what any Pro would take credit for. You are an inspiration to us all.:D I will be getting back to my project soon, after a several year time out, and you have shown me many ways to better complete my project and even shown me areas where I need to redo some of what I have already done.:HMMM:;) I can't wait to see yours completed.:):)
Jack.
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Jack, thanks so much for the kind words, I have learned so much from others build threads.
Hope to update mine soon, I'm slow but I keep picking at it! Would love to see you start posting
on yours!
Take care, Rich
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Got a few things done. I used 16 gauge 304 Stainless for the exhaust. It is
2 1/4" off the manifold, and 2 1/2" the rest of the way.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psuhoqdijk.jpg[/IMG]
I purged with argon, and used 308 .045 filler rod for all the welds.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pscua0khvy.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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I made up some hangers, and used stainless works hanger buttons for
vibration. I slotted the frame hanger mount for adjustment.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pszlf20fxb.jpg[/IMG]
Had to make sure I cleared the aprons.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psboxaefq4.jpg[/IMG]
The hanger behind the muffler is just visible in that pic.
Rich
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Like the idea that somebody besides me purges the inside of stainless tube as they weld and also like how you have raised the mount for the panard bar to the 9er pumpkin!!!
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I had always meant to show pic of the front shock mounts.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pspsygswbu.jpg[/IMG]
The last pic has the panhard bar mount also. Both mounts are 1/4" angle shaped
to fit the rails. All bolts have heavy duty nuts welded in the frame. The
combination mount has a bolt that passes thru frame, and has a tube welded in
to prevent collapse.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psh1kjcdq4.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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Thank's Jerry! As an old pipe fitter purging stainless was required. I tried to keep the panhard bar parallel at ride height.
Rich
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Here is the poor man rotisserie !
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pssjehuxrp.jpg[/IMG]
I did not want brake lines on the rear end housing so I used two hoses.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psrdzywmrp.jpg[/IMG]
Rich