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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0914314.jpg[/IMG]
Forming the cross member plate out of 1/8" flat stock.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50c8a697.jpg[/IMG]
Tacked ready to weld up, also rear tank brackets lengthened. Inside of frame was
sprayed with weld thru primer, and sealed away from welded seam.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8e646d56.jpg[/IMG]
Trial fit of body to clearance sub frame for 'Z' in frame.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c1d994d.jpg[/IMG]
All finished with new mount, and sub frame reenforced.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6273902d.jpg[/IMG]
I work alone most of the time so I built a rig to lift the body. (my buddies are old, and
cranky not much help lifting)
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dd68b3a.jpg[/IMG]
Another view.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4d321ade.jpg[/IMG]
A friend gave me a 38 front end. (freebie!)
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psff50592d.jpg[/IMG]
I'm using dropped steering arms with a new forged 4" dropped axle so I trimmed these
off the 38 spindles. I know you can buy tapered bungs, but I wanted to use the old
parts when possible. I took an old tie rod end, and welded it to a piece of pipe.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psf18aa7b4.jpg[/IMG]
Heres the finished parts. I used 1/2" plate as I was Out of 3/8", and I think 1/4" is a
little light. (over kill as usual!)
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdc2c2620.jpg[/IMG]
Heres a pic of the dummy rear end. It has slip tubes to set rear end width.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdee38d2e.jpg[/IMG]
Here I'm trying to finalize ride height, tire clearance, and body rake.
Rich
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Rich ,, some really detailed work your doing there .. Filling up that retirement time very well spent ..
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Thanks Bobby, good to hear from you! If I ever get all these pics posted, I'll try to post
some pics of R.M.'s dragster.
Rich
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Very nice! The Z turned out sweet! I admire the tools you have as well.
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Thanks for the kind words Ryan! I must admit , I'm a tool fanatic! LOL
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf88f3de.jpg[/IMG]
Have the frame set at ride height to finalize drive line angles, and castor.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1c1be386.jpg[/IMG]
The frame has locating plates holding the rear housing on center, and at max
suspension clearance. These brackets allow the housing to be rotated to set
pinion angle. The housing has not been shortened yet.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0fda01c3.jpg[/IMG]
I made my own brackets for the panhard bar which raises it high enough to keep
4" clearance over the ladder bars, and be level. It has some adjustment for
slight changes when on the road later.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psf29b9c94.jpg[/IMG]
I used 1 1/2" x 3" rec tubing w/3/16" wall.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6e7fa27f.jpg[/IMG]
I wanted some adjustability on angle, and height for the coil overs. This is
what I came up with.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7be1ae63.jpg[/IMG]
I made the trannie mount remoable. There are 3/8" hvy dty nuts welded into the
frame tubes. The rear housing on the Muncie 4 spd is from a early Nova that
has xtra mounts cast in 2" forward of the standard shifter mounts. This helps
with shifter placement caused by the set back of the engine.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2f2306b6.jpg[/IMG]
The forward legs of the Double 'K' Member (sounds good!) tie into the wish bone
hangers for additional strength.
I hated to replace the original middle cross member, but engine set back gave me
no choice. It would have been easier to replace the rear cross member with box
tubing also. I don't mind modifying things, but like to retain original parts if
possible. (they have been in the car over 80 years!)
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1cdabcb.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0cfff9e.jpg[/IMG]
Most everything tacked into position. That is a 525 GM steering box, which fits a
Vega mount.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps03377f5e.jpg[/IMG]
Another view.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psa8ea79ab.jpg[/IMG]
Finally everything tacked up. This is a late 70's housing which has 3 1/4" wall
tubes. I had enlarge all the Pete & Jakes brackets to fit, also added more steel
to the ladder bar mounts for more weld area.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3222ddc.jpg[/IMG]
Back from Mosers with rear complete. They will not guarantee a straight housing unless
they do the welding in their jig. Had new housing ends with sealed bearings installed
which takes different brakes which they have in stock. I had a 8:00 A.M.
appointment, and was on the road again 3 hrs later. I dropped off the center
section for new gears which they sent back 3 days later UPS. Great people
to deal with! (those are new 31 spline axles)
Rich
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I think I saw a Lincoln Power MIG 180 on one of the photos, so I'm guessing MIG.
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The bung was tig, the chassis weld was mig on the wish bone bracket.
Yes that was mig,(180) most on the chassis was mig some tig. I have a Lincoln 225 precision tig that I love, and
an old Century stick machine that still runs good. I'm a retired pipefitter, so most of my time was spent
stick welding when I was working, but there was always some mig or tig to do. Thanks for following the
thread guy's!
Rich
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Rich, you sure are a master fabricator! Great work, it all looks great!
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Ryan, thanks for the kind words, but just an amateur! If I charged some one by the hour
I would go broke I'm so slow. LOL We all do this for the love of the hobby anyway.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c3a158f.jpg[/IMG]
The long slot is for panhard bar clearance (if needed), I know a lot of people trim
this part of the cross member for cleaner looks, but I feel it adds a lot of
stength to the chassis. I also notched the frame for front spring clearance.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps28debba7.jpg[/IMG]
Everything ground, cleaned, and etch primed.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps39789cbf.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb39246ab.jpg[/IMG]
Rear end assembled, cleaned, and etch primed.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88c360c2.jpg[/IMG]
Finally a roller!!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9108e500.jpg[/IMG]
4" dropped axle (forged), adjustable spring perches, and F-100 front brakes.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pse7340df6.jpg[/IMG]
I didn't like the clamp supplied with the steering stabelizer so I made my own.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1cbcd9df.jpg[/IMG]
Finished panhard bar mount, and bolt on shock mounts.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2b9213cc.jpg[/IMG]
All together with webbing taped to frame top, ready for body.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps646a842f.jpg[/IMG]
Coming together!
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psac23bef1.jpg[/IMG]
Finally! I'm happy with stance, and panel fit. The fenders look good from
a distance, but need a bunch of fine tuning. I'll show that in later posts.
Rich
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Wow, that's sweet.. it'll be an awesome ride when completed. Nice work right there.
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Wow, nailed it perfectly for stance and ride height. Love the way the wheel / tyres fit and fill the guards / fenders . Absolutely looking like a very desirable car and love the hemi in it. A friend of mine who is going through a messy divorce has stored his original Moon rocker covers, twin 4 barrel manifold with twin Carters which are for his hemi powered '32 Roadster plus a NOS set of fender skirts for his '37 Ford Coupe in my garage at the moment. The shame of it is my T has a SBC so I can't make use of them. He is pulling the triple carb manifold off the flatty in the '37 also before everything is valued to get the valvues down.
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It flat out looks awesome! Great work!
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Thanks for the encouragement guys! Those 'Moon' valve covers sound
awesome, I've got a repo set of chrome covers I'm going to use.
Rich
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47fc8eed.jpg[/IMG]
Making a pattern from some particle board.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...pscc543f5f.jpg[/IMG]
Had to repair part of the original floor to match shifter.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps59235597.jpg[/IMG]
Made a hammer form for the trans cover.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fe9aedf.jpg[/IMG]
Heres the tools I used to beat the snot out of it. The cheap muffler gun has a
quick release collar,and a 'planishing head' available on e-bay. It helps make a tight
definition around the edges.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2a38994a.jpg[/IMG]
After initial planishing it's close, still needs a little work.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps23b34d1e.jpg[/IMG]
I always new I was going to cut the piece off here, but the hammer form had to
shaped to get the proper form in this area.
Rich
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[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dd3cffd.jpg[/IMG]
Tacked some braces on so I could work on the bench.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps41354e98.jpg[/IMG]
Had to use 3 pieces to fill that area in, but happy with it.
Rich
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