-
Thanks for the kind words Navy7797, Modela31 !
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/a82addba.jpg[/IMG]
I tacked the rear panel support after shaping it to fit the the correct curvature.
I sand blasted the original center support, and welded it in .
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/9880fd1a.jpg[/IMG]
This rear area was in bad shape, I replaced most of the supports. Everyone seems
to treat this area differently, and so will I. I extended the drain rails down, and
formed a box section that will hide the tail lite buckets. The bottom will be open for
drainage.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3e43b397.jpg[/IMG]
This was an original rumble seat panel that curved in to the trunk area. I cut off
half of it, formed a flange on it with 1/4" 20 nuts welded behind the attatchment
holes I drilled for the next panel.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/93ed5094.jpg[/IMG]
Heres the matching panel I fabbed to finish the box. The open bottom is above the
gas tank.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/c799bdcf.jpg[/IMG]
Another view.
Rich
-
-
-
I meant to add in the last post that I relocated the off center latch hole, reshaped the inner trunk panel to accept the latch.
I fabbed my own adjustable catch for the latch on the tail lite panel.
Rich
-
-
Wow, great work saving this one! I really like ally our attention to detail!
-
Mick, Ryan, Thanks for the kind words!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/c61f9a74.jpg[/IMG]
I picked up this junk yard seat for 40$ from a Plymouth voyager, the middle seat.
They have a arm rest on the pass end of the seat, which I wanted to move to the middle. I used Wescotts Model A blueprint to cut the seat brackets to match a stock
Model A. Happy with height, I made an adapter to move the arm rest to where the
seat belts used to pass thru.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/f97545ad.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/917422bd.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/421883e4.jpg[/IMG]
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/e29c8eeb.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the seat frame I made which is over complicated, but I can't help picking
at things.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/c1014de2.jpg[/IMG]
Installed. [IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/7050576d.jpg[/IMG]
This is from Summit designed for 1 bucket seat, which I spread to use on the bench.
Sum-G1153 $27.95.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/270ba707.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/cf699637.jpg[/IMG]
Finished arm rest, I know it's ugly, but will be redone in traditional some day.
I like arm rests !
I had also reshaped the under seat release lever. The arm rest must be removable to lay seat down.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/7e25bfee.jpg[/IMG]
This is what I would like to see as a finished seat! I'll have to settle
for a Mexican blanket for a while.
Rich
-
Your probably sick of seat pics, but I found some more.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3597dc2b.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psd6e7de6b.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68c6cb12.jpg[/IMG]
The seat is tipped 2" from front to back on the brackets. I used stainless 1/8"
heli arc wire to tie the 2 latches together for operating the seat tracks.
Rich
-
Very nice work! I have put some other make seats in pick ups, and some times coming up with a strong seat bracket that doesn't look too ugly can be tough. You did a great job. I have to build some brackets soon to put a dodge and ford seat in my 76 chevy crew cab.
-
Thanks Ryan ! , I wanted to leave enough space for under seat storage which I'll work on later. I would like
to add side panels like in the above pic of the 32. These van seats are great , but could still be a few inches
narrower.
Love your Sedan!, had a 40 Ford tudor in High School.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/50a00738.jpg[/IMG]
Heres a pic of the original firewall that came in the car. I'll cross brace the cowl area
,and pull out the good one to start fabbing a new firewall for engine clearance.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/bc3cf83c.jpg[/IMG]
I could have reversed the 'good' firewall, but I want all the fasteners hidden. Also I
need more clearance than that would provide. Here I'm cutting off the mounting
flange, and welding 1/4" 20 nuts to the backside to match the cowl.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/06b77079.jpg[/IMG]
After sand blasting I have it mounted, I'm keeping the front 'foot' body mount
which I did not want to change. I'll add pieces to tie it in.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/a19d0103.jpg[/IMG]
Rear view .
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/33345092.jpg[/IMG]
I'm using 16 gauge which I marked in 1" increments to help me make mirror image
pieces for the left, and right pieces. (any way thats the plan !) You have to
shrink one side, and stretch the opposite to curve the pieces.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3a2f9ad2.jpg[/IMG]
These are Eastwood shrinker stretchers in my home made stand, can't get along without them!
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/430ec100.jpg[/IMG]
Just a pic of trimming one of the pieces after scribing it against the installed flange.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3f6b5826.jpg[/IMG]
Heres that piece installed.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/41bf440b.jpg[/IMG]
I'm scribing a blank piece of 16 gauge after getting all the set back pieces
tacked in.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/de5d222f.jpg[/IMG]
I'm trying to decide on the pattern to press into the firewall which will have to
leave room for the master cyl, and a vin tag.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/a3181824.jpg[/IMG]
All ready to tack in, piece of cake! Well maybe not, sharp eyes would note this
piece is hot rolled 16 gauge, and the previous pics showed cold rolled with no
surface mill scale. I was not happy with the first effort, and tried a practice
piece out of hot rolled which turned out to good to not use.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/2ca215dc.jpg[/IMG]
All welded, and cleaned up, but far from finished.
Rich
-
This is fascinating for the newbie. I never knew the bodies came apart like that.
-
Al, I was determined to remove all rust!
I'm going to post a little demo on how I press form shapes. I'm just an amateur, and
I'm sure others have better methods. That firewall was the largest pressing I
have done, but the principle is the same.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/c951714c.jpg[/IMG]
This is 16 gauge here, I give the pieces a gap of one and a half to one. These measured
.057, with gap of .085 . It doesn't have to be this exact, I use drill bits to measure the gaps.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/16e69156.jpg[/IMG]
Drill bits align blank with female die. I have scribed the outline of the male die for
positioning.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/6112d548.jpg[/IMG]
The female die is now under the blank lined up with the drill bits. The male die is
taped to the outline we scribed on the blank. I also had taped the female to the blank.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/c517a8cb.jpg[/IMG]
here it is ready to press. This is where I spray everything with WD40.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3cda88d9.jpg[/IMG]
I sandwich the piece between a couple pieces of 1/2" plate. I start in the middle
pressing just enough to lock it in place. Pressing in 3 spots till complete. I found
less distortion by doing it gradually. I have converted my 50 ton press to air over
which makes repeated pressings easy. A 10 ton press would work.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/2c552714.jpg[/IMG]
Ready to pull dies.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/68092b5c.jpg[/IMG]
Heres the finished piece which I had primed to get an idea of the finished look.
Tighter clearances will result in better definition, but you risk shearing the
finished piece.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/dca2fe07.jpg[/IMG]
Heres the dies, and the blank to make the firewall.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/3affc2cf.jpg[/IMG]
I cheated, and used my cheap mill to cut the dies.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/7109fa93.jpg[/IMG]
Most of my projects were done the hard way with air saw, and hand tools.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/0bf14fa2.jpg[/IMG]
This is pressed in the opposite direction of the X design.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ow82fiu.jpg[/IMG]
I found a pic of a English 32 firewall tag, and had my son-in-law machine it for me.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/bb20cbdc.jpg[/IMG]
The main design ready to press. You want to press it into the form stretching the
metal, not pull it in distorting the whole piece. There is always some distortion
though since we don't have a press that holds the piece while pressing the design.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/016ab9ce.jpg[/IMG]
Don't forget the oil!
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/f6bbdefe.jpg[/IMG]
I had always planned to beef up the back since I'm using a firewall mounted brake, and
clutch. This is 1/8" plate that will be edge, and plug welded to the back side.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/d818bd06.jpg[/IMG]
All welded up.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/afc620b6.jpg[/IMG]
At the last minute I found the brake lines would be in the way of the vin tag, so I
cut it out, and moved it.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/b4ebb885.jpg[/IMG]
The reason I had to modify firewall.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/4d923fe4.jpg[/IMG]
I used these to help set engine angle, there is threaded rod with 1" sq tube at
the rear of the pan rail to raise or lower engine.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/91f29d4f.jpg[/IMG]
The $185 radiator I got off E-Bay.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/6abfe980.jpg[/IMG]
I could not get the hood line I wanted, and had to lower the pad a 1/2".
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/9ab8ff22.jpg[/IMG]
Looks better.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/20d0eeba.jpg[/IMG]
Rolled it outside to check grrill shell height, and gas tank fit.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/683f59d5.jpg[/IMG]
A shot of the 35 dash I'm using, pedal placement, and temp steering column
I'm using.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/de039036.jpg[/IMG]
32 tank, and rails mocked in position.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/80408c75.jpg[/IMG]
I coped these pieces to tie into the rear cross member.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/b6cc1c21.jpg[/IMG]
Finished installation. I had to box the rear 32 rails, add a cross memeber, and
a lot of fussing around to make the tank fit.
It would seem that tieing into the sides of the frame would be more logical, but
trying to clear all obstacles is difficult.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...l/078b98bf.jpg[/IMG]
As it sits today. The small supports are to keep the tank stable when the body
is removed. There is some slight flex in the rear crossmember that will be
addressed later.
Rich
-
Wow Rich just read the whole thread. Full of great ideas methods, and enginuity which I will apply to my seat when the time comes!
-
Thanks a bunch Stovens!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps184869a4.jpg[/IMG]
Ready to box the frame.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34083eeb.jpg[/IMG]
Using 3/16" cold roll flat stock. Have a portable band saw in a home made stand
to cut the 4" wide pieces. I have a metal supply house a few miles from my house
which is really handy.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psc4c9120e.jpg[/IMG]
Most use 1/8" plate, I like the heavier 3/16". It's stronger, taps better, and I
over build everything anyway.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3030530.jpg[/IMG]
Typical stitch weld.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7625b07.jpg[/IMG]
I alternated top, bottom, and side to side to minimize warpage.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88fdda1d.jpg[/IMG]
Finished main rails ground smooth, with clamps off perfectly flat.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps31cf3277.jpg[/IMG]
Here is the start of frame 'Z'. I found I did not have enough suspension travel
without it. (4") This means I also have to lengthen the gas tank support. So much
for planning ahead!
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psa383a96b.jpg[/IMG]
I welded the inside of the frame 'Z' before adding the boxing plates.
Rich
-
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1863e3c9.jpg[/IMG]
All welded.
[IMG]http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8839581.jpg[/IMG]
I'm adding stiffener plates inside the rear cross member to eliminate any twist. I'll
also box it.
Rich