Thread: 1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn Build

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I can vouch for that "fix"! But mine was a 100K pound cement truck trying to get into a jobsite and off load BEFORE the load CURED!

And yes, I have been inside a barrel running a 70 pound jackhammer overhead... 12 cubic yards of curing concrete.
That was the reason for making sure I could offload!

Ya should always carry 2 5lb pound bags of sugar in the cab if you get stuck and think your mud is going off throw in the sugar and it wont get hard

Originally Posted by ted dehaan

Ya should always carry 2 5lb pound bags of sugar in the cab if you get stuck and think your mud is going off throw in the sugar and it wont get hard

Seriously? How much longer will it take for the mud to cure and does it ruin the mud? That's interesting.

That got my interest also, so I did some quick research.

Sugar in small amounts retards set time of cement with some initial loss of strength during cure, and some overall increase in strength when fully cured.

Sugar added in large amounts (% of mix) accelerates cure with severe reduction in strength for fully cured.

Sorry Ryan-------I guess you don't want any help--??

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Sorry Ryan-------I guess you don't want any help--??

Jerry, what kind of help is, "So it's 45 years old and something broke?" Then you go on to tell me about the loads on a steering system and when in four wheel drive. Which is not a problem here seeing how there is no front drive shaft. I always appreciate help. I have no problem with you explaining how things work so other people can learn too. I have a good understanding on how things work and how they were designed to be utilized also. I'll be the first to admit I do not know everything.

I read that post as non informative because you were just telling be I need to check out my steering parts because they take a lot of abuse. Even though you apparently haven't read any of this build thread to see all these parts have indeed been replaced. If you had, you may have known that this particular part/piece that failed, is not any OEM production piece any way. I can only assume they failed because they are cheap junk. And I will be checking out the front end as I will remove the knuckle off the axle to remove the broken studs. That should be loads of fun to remove those studs. Who knows, maybe they were too hard and that's why they broke? Like I said earlier, I should have known better to use unknown brand studs for this part.

I'll quit ranting now.

Ryan-I did not read thru 400 posts but did go back several pages looking for pics of the front axle/ steering components. I did respond to the post so as to enlighten others also. Trucks with big wheels/tires are extremely hard to turn the front wheels while setting still or moving slowly so that explains why others have commented about failures while going slow manovering--

My comments about the 4 x 4 u-joints having ab issue at angles other than pretty straight is for every body that reads the post. No where was I aware of it didn't have a front drive shaft------ And lots of rust around the joints so????? maybe joint was locked /frozen???????? I don't know how you put the studs in, but many times I've seen evidence that studs have been damaged by over tightening them as they are installed-( stress in the last thread to shank--weakest , most vulnerable spot)

While you have it apart, check other areas for damage because the broken studs at the spindle top is just the weak point and probably not the source of the trouble ( most of this is for others to understand )

I'm waiting to see the rements of the studs when you get them out--good luck-hope you used anti seize/ lube instead of lock tite.

I know I torqued them with my torque wrench. I really hope I put anti seize on them too. I think I did. Hopefully in a couple weeks I can get to it. Right now I'm working hard to get this 7.3 night mare truck finished.

you torqued them into the housing or just the nuts on top??????

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

you torqued them into the housing or just the nuts on top??????

I threaded the studs in by hand. Bottomed them out and backed them out an 1/8 of a turn. Then torqued the nuts on top.

Great Ryan-you can not believe how many engines we've gotten in that they had torqued the head/main studs into block with tq settings for the nuts--------especially bad for the mains as it puts tremendous stress into block right near crank/cam bores and then add the force from the engine running-----and they wonder how come the bottom blew out???????

Hmm. I didn't know that.

Not that I've done any studs, but it's good to know.

A lot of quality studs actually have a BALL end on them( sorta like a push rod tip) so they will bottom out in a threaded blind hole and you can back them off a bit-then the pull is directly and evenly on threads instead of jammed together in the bottom of hole -also its a good idea to BOTTOM tap the blind holes so threads don't interfere too bad.

Congradulations Ryan

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