Cheers Don, looks like we will be over sometime this year mate, I'm looking forward to that beer on your boat http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...NS/chugger.gif
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Cheers Don, looks like we will be over sometime this year mate, I'm looking forward to that beer on your boat http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...NS/chugger.gif
I can see myself............. Firewall looks super. I didn't realize how tall those were at the firewall. Frame work doesn't look too shabby either. Can't wait to see what goodies you will create for this one.
Yes very nice mirror you have installed up front .
Willys look so tight in the engine compartment when all buttoned up, but they really do have quite a tall and wide firewall area, don't they? That ss firewall looks superb, Steve. What kind of rivets are you going to use? Do they make them in stainless and if so, how hard are they to buck?
Don
I think the stainless theme is a secret ploy to blind the unknowing fellow racer who takes the bait, then the hydrolics come to life exposing the bright firewall and chasis parts, blinding the competition....ah the ultimate sleeper!:D
OOOHH MAAAN your Willys is sooo cool !!!!...guess this means i have to drag my '55 Chevy 2dr post out huh ???...lol
Well seeing as i have no interest in a royal wedding i thought i would make good use of the long bank holiday weekend.
Cut the front floor panel from a sheet of 12mm ply and clearanced it for the autobox, Its only bolted in at the moment, will glass it fully very shortly.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20115.jpg
Once i had the floor in place i could get the front body mounts into place.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...29th201115.jpg
Next i made some plates up that bolt to the front mounts at the A post sandwiching the floor, this where my front cage mounts.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20117.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20116.jpg
Next i made the B post mounts from 4" x 2" box, these needed to be strong as my main cage hoop bolts in here, the box was tapered and capped off and square plate welded to each mount. They are tacked in place and will get fully welded when the body is lifted off. (the box section in the pics is the temperary mounts)
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20114.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...29th201112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...29th201113.jpg
2 more plates were cut and drilled to bolt in at the B post again sandwiching the 12mm floor, this is where the main cage hoop bolts in.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20118.jpg
Next i started putting in the steelwork to stiffen up the B post and to provide a mounting point for the lock striker.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...29th201110.jpg
This is where it started raining so i retired to the workshop to find something to do, I had a offcut of 3" stainless exhaust tubing so decided to make a weight bar for the rear, i spun up some capping plates for the ends and welded them in place, then i gave the tube a quick polish as it makes it easier to full polish after the brackets were welded on. The brackets fix where the original Willys bumper irons fit, I will cut the bumper irons cutouts in the rear fenders tomorrow and hopefully get it bolted in place.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l29th20119.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...29th201111.jpg
All in all a good productive day !!! Now for a nice beer or 2 http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...TIONS/beer.gif
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Very nice work Steve but hey man,what's this not watching the wedding of the century??? You could of sat there with Sue and drunk your beers and made all sorts of wise quacks just to annoy her.:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Nice stuff, Steve!!! Working on a Hot Rod is a priority over watching any dang wedding on the tube!
Think this is about the best thread I found where attaching a glass body to metal work . Really good lay out , and may be some great stuff when even rejuvenating some old metal .
I would rather stick pins in my eyes Whip, i thought it was boring !!!
Thats looking real good,Steve..You arent going to glass the steel frame to the body,are you??Different rates of expansion and contraction,as you probably know..That Willys is coming along in leaps and bounds,mate..Nothin like a gasser in the neighbourhood to wake up the locals...:D:D
I hadnt seen you on here for some hours,so I naturally thought you were out with the half million others,lining the streets to watch the wedding..:D I had a good excuse too..Didnt want to sit around an 11pm to see it all..:whacked:
No mate i know about the expansion/contraction thing plus of course glass don't stick that well to steel, Everything is bolted and clamped, I never hang hinges/locks etc etc on the glass, i prefer to sandwich the glass so its not stressed, never had a star crack ever in any of my glass cars doing it this way. i'm probably teaching my granny to suck eggs here as your obviously a laminator :o
:LOL: Haha,Steve,nice one...good turn of phrase there..:LOL:Thought you would know about that,,I feel like I am teaching granny to suck eggs...:D I am trying to get back to the redevelopment of the 32/5w bodies,and the new floor[fibreglass,8mm thick,reinforced]so I am very interested in your work in the framing side..Admittedly,we have some stringent regs here with steel framing in glass bodies..so its interesting to watch what you are doing on this particular build..I have had a good hard look at Wescotts framing,Deuce Customs[Australia],so I know where we are going..Just gotta get in there..Hopefully in a week or three..:cool:
Lamin8r a lot of them seem to use round tube curved to match the contour, i've done it that way myself but it don't give you anywhere to attach panels as its round and i can't see it being as rigid as square tube in triangles as if its curved it can still be flexed on the bend where as the square tube allows trim clip holes to be drilled into it. Not sure of the science of it all but my cars don't have any rattles like some glass cars.
Obviously if your doing bodies to sell you may have to go the round tube route as it is less time consuming.
Probably,a combination of both,Steve..But I will be leaning towards square as much as possible..The B pillars have to be minimum 38mm o/d x min.3mm wall,and the rails above the doors,25mmx25mm,3mm wall..The rest is by virtual commonsense,or as the certifier sees it..The floor will be glass,with a reinforcer from B pillar to B pillar,plus,we need a fixed bulkhead between the trunk area and passenger compartment..I have to build a body,chop it,set it up on a chassis,and start from there,as I intend to do a new set of molds,with a 2''or 2 1/2 ''chop..
Very much like what i like to use mate, I like 50mm x 25mm x 3mm for A & B posts as it can stiffen them right up, i use a combination of 25mm & 20mm elsewhere, even 25mm square can be a bitch to accomodate sometimes.
Where the tube is in compression or tension i drop to 1.6mm wall as its still very strong used in this way and light too, as you say a bit of common sense is needed.
On the Willys there just isn't the room to run a 50 x 25 x 3 up the A post, this is why the firewall frame is a bit beefy, its all 20 x 20 x 1,6 but is incredibly strong and doesn't flex in any direction which is good as i have to tie in the door hinges to it, its a bit tight in this area because of the recessed firewall.
Not such a productive day today mainly because its been bl00dy hot
I got the weight bar fitted and made a template for the trans tunnel and a few other boring bits. The trans tunnel could of been lower but i want to mount my shifter on it so i made it a bit higher.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...l30th20112.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...il30th2011.jpg
:)
Sorry Whip been unable to login for the last few days, duno why ??? I would much rather be in my workshop than watching a boring wedding.
Weather been a bit on off today but managed to get a bit done amongst the interuptions.
Originally was using a Vega box but just not enough clearance on engine as its a bit lower in the frame than most, Alternative was to use a Land Rover box, these are very underated and easy to mount and work real nice.
The box is fitted with a built in column which was no use to me so i cut it off just above the top bearing, doing this means a oil seal has to be fitted on top of the top bearing, a 1.75" OD 3/4" ID seal presses straight in.
The iiner column was then cut down, the majority of it is tube but the bottom couple of inches is bar so 2 flats were ground on it and then it was fitted with a double D UJ.
I will bore a 2" hole in the side rail when the engine is next out as the hole has to have a sleeve welded in to the hole, also the mounting bolts need sleeves welding in also.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...y7th201110.jpg
While having a tidy up i came across a pair of shocks i had bought at some time, they are new and had the right dimensions so i thought i would get them fitted today.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay7th20115.jpg
The shocks had a 2 bolt lower fixing so that was removed and i spun a couple of adaptrs up on the lathe for the shock to mount on and also space them off the front axle slightly.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay7th20112.jpg
The top mount was made from 1/8" flat plate, a few holes were added so they are slightly less boring.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay7th20117.jpg
All welded and bolted in place.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay7th20119.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay7th20118.jpg
I like that box, Steve! Looks like a real nice size to fit in and if Land Rover built it it's probably tough as nails, too! I like the shock mounts, too! I've noted that most gassers have the shocks mounted vertical on the front of the axle, like your's are Steve.... Do you know if there's a particular reason for this, or just a personal preference deal?
Hi Dave, i seem to have problems getting into the site these days 8-(
I mounted the shocks straight up as thats the way they are designed for, when they are laid over they lose a certain percentage of their efficiency. always makes me laugh when i see cars with them mounted at 45 degrees as they ain't doing much damping at all.
Yeah, I've got a chart somewhere leftover from circle burnin' that shows percentage lost at a given angle... Before the days of rebuildable and tuneable shocks, used to use shock angle as a chassis tuning aid. But the very max recomended was 20 degrees.... Got to be useful then, now we just order the valving we want with the mounting angle remaining constant.
Nothing quite so technical on this one Dave, these are what i had laying around :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Well, that works too! About all a gasser needs on the front is something to cushion a bit when the front wheels land!
Too right Dave :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Spent yesterday evening making up some 60's style wheelie bars, I did a bit of searching around and got contacted by an old gas racer from the 60's who gave me the info i needed.
I started with a pair of 5" OD steel wheels with a rubber tyre that i found on ebay, then my mate Mark Bull donated a pair of 1956 International truck springs which i cut 3" behind the centre bolt.
Next i plasma cut a axle mounting bracket from 3/8" plate and used 56 Chevy truck U bolts to clamp it together.
I'm pretty pleased how they came out !!! Just hope i don't need them !!!
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ay10th2011.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...y10th20111.jpg
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Nice! Didn't realize they use leaf springs for those, but I imagine it gives the flex and support you'd need.
I guess they used what was about and readily available Steve