Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By rspears
  • 1 Post By 34_40

Thread: head identification
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    cabellerosteve is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    plainwell
    Posts
    4

    head identification

     



    last year i purchased a 79 caballero with a 350, the previous owner pulled the engine from a 86 chevy truck, last month I pulled engine and transmission while doing a transmission swap and figured i would put new gaskets on the engine while it was out. also figured i would add some HP, after tearing apart the engine I identified it had 305 heads on it with casting number 14022601, I visited many databases with conflicting info, some say they are 53cc and some say 58cc, also some say valves are 1.84/1.50 and some say 1.72/1.50, im not sure how to tell which valves are in the head or what cc they are, any ideas???

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe
    Posts
    9,789

    Quote Originally Posted by cabellerosteve View Post
    I'm not sure how to tell which valves are in the head or what cc they are, any ideas???
    Welcome to CHR!

    If you have the engine apart, why not measure the valves and check the cc volume? A piece of plexiglass and some Vaseline to seal, plus a container marked in cc's tells the tale. With your story, knowing that the PO pulled the engine from an '86 truck I'd be concerned that it's a 305 and not a 350. I suggest you check the casting number on the back of the block, just below the intake and the numbers stamped on the block in front of the passenger side head, just in front of the sealing surface to see what you have.
    cabellerosteve likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    13,531

    Or lay a tape measure across the intake valve and measure the head of it. if it's less than 1 & 3/4"( 1.72") or closer to 2" (1.84") you'll have an answer.
    cabellerosteve likes this.

  4. #4
    glennsexton's Avatar
    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tigard
    Car Year, Make, Model: 63 Nova SS
    Posts
    2,322

    Welcome to CHR:

    As you already determined, these heads were used on 305 engines and have 53cc chambers. They were also used on the ill-fated 267 engine. Here’s the difference - The 267 used 1.72/1.5 valves, the 305 used 1.84/1.5 valves. I share Roger’s suspicions that you have a 305 engine that the PO may have thought was a 350. Now that you have the heads off, simply measure the bore. Stock bore size:
    267: 3.500”
    305: 3.736”
    350: 4.000”
    Find the casting number for the block and then we can determine what the engine was when it left the factory. Also helpful is the number on the block at the front left (passenger side).

    Since you have the engine out and you’re interested in adding a bit of zip to your ride, you may want to consider some options. If the engine is a 305, I’d not put a ton of money into it. If you have a 350 from a 1986 truck it’s not a roller motor. Either case, unless you want to work what you have, you may be better off starting with a crate motor. To put a 350 back together with decent heads can quickly eat up a couple grand. A roller long-block crate engine can be had for as little as $2,200 for a 250 horse bullet proof GM truck four-bolt with a warranty. You can go a little crazy and for about $5k have a fire breathing 400+ HP, 383 stroker motor and there’s some options in between.

    So, get the block numbers and then you can determine what you have and how much you want to spend.

    Again, welcome to CHR!
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  5. #5
    cabellerosteve is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    plainwell
    Posts
    4

    already checked the block numbers and determined it is in fact a 350 block casting number 10054727, I believe they put 305

  6. #6
    cabellerosteve is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    plainwell
    Posts
    4

    heads on to increase compression, all sources were conflicting as to if they were 53cc or 58cc, haven't pulled the heads off yet but I guess I will this weekend, was looking into replacing rockers with 1.6 and was concerned if that would require race fuel as I have read some posts indicating that to be the case with 53cc chambers with this set up

  7. #7
    cabellerosteve is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    plainwell
    Posts
    4

    engine runs great, not looking to dump thousands into a car that wont reflect it in resale value, but I don't mind spending time, and a hundred or two, just don't want to change things to find out later I have to run high octane instead of regular gas, maybe this is not an issue im not sure? I was planning on porting the heads myself and replacing the valve seals, new gasket set with head bolts and 1.6 rocker upgrade, most of my work is in the trans swap going from th350 to 700r4, and 2:56 ring and pinion to 3:73 posi as the gearing change should bring the car to life. my other concern was the torque converter as I have heard the stall should be matched to the cam, and with no idea what cam is in the engine im not quite sure where to go with that. the engine has a dual plane weiland intake and edelbrock 650 carb, timing cover looks to be original so could be stock cam, is there a way to tell? and by the way thanks for all the info you guys are great!

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink