Thread: Crankshalf Barings and Rod barings

Tweet

Wow. It took two pages to determine that one might determine whether a crank had been turned by using plastigage . . . and ended up as an ass-kicking contest. If this wasn't so silly, it would be funny.

i will not i had this pissing contest be for with mike and denny on plastigage dos it work? yes it dose. BUT when you need numbers. you need a bore gauges and a micrometer .when i do a rod bore or a cylinder wall or a sleeve in a block i use a mic.s and a bore gauge. the bore gauge get set off the mic.s so them are real numers .yes i know my mic.s may not read. like my crank grinders? BUT they have standards with the mike.s and show how bored i am i have check my mic.s with his for a long time i did not want to send engines out with numbers on them mainly oil running clearances. but i did people like to see this so i get a call from a guy .here we go i am thinking .said he now is the new owner of a 565 big block and had the paper work on it . this was not runned and would like to talk to me on my numbers? i had on the paper?? i had all the numbers down and he got the same ones to the tenth just like the paper i sent out with the engine . and he said he .wanted to know who the hell i was. said he never sene this to much . for this i did get more work .so my mic.s and bore gauge paid off

Originally posted by pat mccarthy
i will not i had this pissing contest be for with mike and denny on plastigage dos it work? yes it dose. BUT when you need numbers. you need a bore gauges and a micrometer .when i do a rod bore or a cylinder wall or a sleeve in a block i use a mic.s and a bore gauge. the bore gauge get set off the mic.s so them are real numers .yes i know my mic.s may not read. like my crank grinders? BUT they have standards with the mike.s and show how bored i am i have check my mic.s with his for a long time i did not want to send engines out with numbers on them mainly oil running clearances. but i did people like to see this so i get a call from a guy .here we go i am thing .said he now is the new owner of a 565 big block and had the paper work on it . this was not runned and would like to talk to me on my numbers? i had on the paper?? i had all the numbers down and he got the same ones to the tenth just like the paper i sent out with the engine . and he said he .wanted to know who the hell i was. said he never sene this to much . for this i did get more work .so my mic.s and bore gauge paid off

pat, read the ? and read my answer. and then read the next post. it was unnessary and uncalled for. i can read mic.

Originally posted by lt1s10
pat, read the ? and read my answer. and then read the next post. it was unnessary and uncalled for. i can read mic.

It was a generalization.It was not directed at you personally.If it was I would have used your name in a sentence.Again, I am sorry.

i never said it did not work? for a $1.50 it will give you some thing . i said some guys when they pay for a engine build they want you to use a bore gauges mic.. and will not say any thing more on this. i can not sell a job using plastigage

Originally posted by pat mccarthy
i never said it did not work? for a $1.50 it will give you some thing . i said some guys when they pay for a engine build they want you to use a bore gauges mic.. and will not say any thing more on this. i can not sell a job using plastigage

Pat,that was the point I was trying to make on page 5.No one really got what I was trying to say.

i did i am not trying to piss off mike or denny BUT i will not say i am a idiot . i am stating fact that NO one will send me any work if i used plastigage . in this town i would have no work.

Originally posted by Dave Severson
Way to go Erik, takes a good man to offer an apology.......Besides, I was beginning to think I was the only fool that set there with a set of Mic's (mine are Starrets) and tunes oil clearances......Do you check the cam bores too?????? Or am I the only one that bored????

What do you guys think on "H" bearings, tighter, looser, or the same?????

With me it really depends more on the application.This is what has worked for me on hi-compression hi-rpm circle track engines.With "H" series bearings.On the 2.1 dia rods I use 1.2 x 2.1 = 2.52,on the mains which are 2.45 dia. we use 1.3 x 2.45 which gives 3.185.This has worked very well for us the past 3 seasons.We use to use .001 per inch of bearing dia. and we started having bearing issues after about 10 nights.Now we get 15 nights on the I.M.C.A. engines before we touch them.We check them if we see any strange wear problems on the cam bearings or see any start to spin.In the U.S.M.T.S engine we will watch this more because of the extra r.p.m.'s and the extra spring pressure used with the roller cam.Don't worry Dave,Pat I also uses them.

Wait until the end to reply? I posted on the first page:

The original question was "how can I tell if my crank was turned?" He didn't ask how to build a precision racing motor.

Within normal temperature ranges, plastigage will not vary enough to make a difference. It is more than accurate enough to make that judgement. If the crank is ground, it will be .010, .020, or 0.30. You don't need an inside mic to figure that out.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It is for people who don't know how to read an inside bore gauge or mic.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Eric,

If you read that again, you might see why someone would think you were putting them down with that statement. Just a thought.

The original inquiry got lost in an argument over whether plastigage or mics were superior - which had absolutely nothing to do with the original question. To determine whether a crank is either .002 or .010, plastigage will do fine. An inside mic will do fine too. In THIS PARTICULAR SITUATION, either would work, depending on what you have available. However, plastigage was the quick and easy for the the guy to find out. My last point was that people got so tied up in who was "right" that they lost sight of the original question. That is now painfully obvious. If you re-read my post, you will see that I tried to calm the "discussion" down. That was a rousing success, wasn't it? Sometimes someone asks us what time it is, and we end up telling him how to build a clock. Then we end up arguing whether quartz or jeweled movements are better. Worse, we end up throwing the clocks at each other and stomping off to our rooms. Absofreakinglutely amazing.

ok henry i like jeweled i am trying hard to fit in here i guess it is not working i sometimes think mike and denny are right on and i think i know what erick is trying to say i did not see this post at first .cant we all get along or is it me

[QUOTE]Originally posted by erik erikson
With me it really depends more on the application.This what has worked for me on hi-compression hi-rpm circle track engines.With "H" series bearings.On the 2.1 dia rods I use 1.2 x 2.1 = 2.52,on the mains which are 2.45 dia. we use 1.3 x 2.45 which gives 3.185.This has worked very well for us the past 3 seasons.We use to use .001 per inch of bearing dia. and we started having bearing issues after about 10 nights.Now we get 15 nights on the I.M.C.A. engines before we touch them.We check them if we see any strange wear problems on the cam bearings or see any start to spin.In the U.S.M.T.S engine we will watch this more because of the extra r.p.m.'s and the extra spring pressure used with the roller cam.Don't worry Dave,Pat also uses them. [/QUOTE

Were the bearing issues from heat?? I've been opening up the mains on the last few Windsors, new one will use the bigger mains, forget the size right off but it's same mains as a 351C. On some C motors we went high as high as 3. I'll get back with you on the particulars when I get the block details worked out, going to use a Dart, maybe aluminum?????

Should I open up the cambeaings with the mechanical roller??? Never have played much with them....Mostly just checked the size and make sure it's within spec...... Good tip, thanks

Originally posted by pat mccarthy
ok henry i like jeweled

Oh yeah????? Well I'm old, I like wind up pocket watches!!!!!

I'm using a sundial from now on.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dave Severson

Originally posted by erik erikson
With me it really depends more on the application.This what has worked for me on hi-compression hi-rpm circle track engines.With "H" series bearings.On the 2.1 dia rods I use 1.2 x 2.1 = 2.52,on the mains which are 2.45 dia. we use 1.3 x 2.45 which gives 3.185.This has worked very well for us the past 3 seasons.We use to use .001 per inch of bearing dia. and we started having bearing issues after about 10 nights.Now we get 15 nights on the I.M.C.A. engines before we touch them.We check them if we see any strange wear problems on the cam bearings or see any start to spin.In the U.S.M.T.S engine we will watch this more because of the extra r.p.m.'s and the extra spring pressure used with the roller cam.Don't worry Dave,Pat also uses them. [/QUOTE

Were the bearing issues from heat?? I've been opening up the mains on the last few Windsors, new one will use the bigger mains, forget the size right off but it's same mains as a 351C. On some C motors we went high as high as 3. I'll get back with you on the particulars when I get the block details worked out, going to use a Dart, maybe aluminum?????

We where told by our oil manufacture we could close the clearence back up because of our synthetic additive we where useing.Yes, it was the heat of the summer and the rings where a little on the loose side which we think let more metanhol wash down the cyinders and into the oil pan.

Originally posted by pat mccarthy
ok henry i like jeweled

Pat,would that be a Rolex ?