Quote Originally Posted by Stovebolter View Post
I've tried to gather information from the sites mentioned above and all I can say is that they talk over my head just a bit. Thank you Dave. You've helped me out a lot. I'm going to go with the lightest bar (.095) and extend my arm to the rear side of the a arms (drill holes down the length) so I can play around with the arm lenght (longer lever carries less load) a little. If that bar is too light I can step up a size and do the same.
Along with that, David, our good friend Mr. L (leverage) is also going to help with the chassis tune up as to the placement of the anti-roll bar arm on the lower A-arm, inboard to outboard mounting points on the lower control arm will also change the amount of leverage, therefore the bar rate can be different, too!!!!

Imagine a scene at your favorite parts store, "I would like a .750" bar with .083" wall for the back of my '57 Chevy with a 9" Ford rear end, housing floaters, and the dual AFCO shock option, please." Heck, I ordered a set of hole saws for cutting oval holes at Car Quest 2 years ago and they are STILL on backorder!!!!!!

Another thing I like to do on the anti-roll bar is to have a fixed mount with internal splines for one end on a sturdy upright (mine is a leg on my chassis table), then an adapter onto the other splined end with a nut welded on it---You can use a 1/2" drive torque wrench to 'measure' the bars, ie X degrees of movement on the bar = X ft. lbs. of torque on the torque wrench.....

I'm shooting for 1g lateral on the 'maro and the '57... gets the boys at the Sunday afternoon autocross really scratching their heads!!!!!!!